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02-18-2013, 10:13 AM   #1
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First Film Processing

A while back I decided to jump back into film, but only B&W. When I saw the cost of sending it out for processing it seemed like doing it myself might be fun and cheaper. These are from the first batch processed of Kodak TRI-X 400 B&W. I think I did a fine job overall of processing. The negs were scanned into LR4 with an Epson V500 Photo. Maybe it was beginners luck, but I'm happy with the results. The shots that looked bad, I believe, were just bad shots when taken, not from the processing. I certainly need to get better at timing the agitation steps, but there's no evidence of bubbles.

One thing that was bugging me was the negs were bowed pretty good when in the scanner fixture. I've heard theres a way to fix that with some glass inserts or something. If anyone knows please let me know, but will poke around the Forums a bit. Anyway... it sure is a lot of fun.

(Taken with Pentax ZX-M and a few different lens combos.)

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02-18-2013, 01:19 PM   #2
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Bowed 35mm negs

Ah, you take me back to my J-school days!

Use a wetting agent (e.g. Kodak PhotoFlo) at the end of the wash process (or however the directions direct), and use a carefully-clean squeegee to wipe the liquid off the negative strip. I've got negs that still lie utterly flat, shot in 1978.

Note the bit about the CLEAN squeegee. One bit of dirt and you've run a scratch down the whole roll.
02-18-2013, 01:59 PM   #3
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That's why it is a good idea not to use a squeegee. You don't need it and you can do just fine without one. You can just shake - whip - the bulk of the water off the film instead by holding it at both ends.

Glass carriers can be found at BetterScanning.com. However, your scans do not look to have any blurry spots. 35mm is much easier to lay flat enough compared to 120 roll film. One thing about glass carriers is you have to spend a lot of time cleaning them and micro-fine dust still shows up and you have to spend even more time in post cleaning up the image if you are picky.
02-18-2013, 02:11 PM - 1 Like   #4
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It looks like you've done a very good job of the whole process. Don't worry too much about the processing, just stick to the instructions and you'll be fine. Ilford have an excellent set of instructions on their website that I routinely refer to, they even have processing times for many non-Ilford films and developers.

Scanning is MUCH more infuriating and difficult than developing. I'm still experimenting with my V500, but I've learned that (coming from a photographer that started with digital) that I'm not going to get results anywhere near as sharp from film, not in that scanner. Unfortunately, it seems to be the best there is at a reasonable price.

There's a V500 group on flickr you might find helpful. There's also a DIY B&W film group. There's a lot of V500 talk of different film holders and home-made this-and-that, but none of it appears to make more than a minor difference. Your shots above look to me about as sharp as is possible with a V500, so well done.

02-18-2013, 06:07 PM   #5
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Thanks All, points and advice appreciated and noted. I always learn something new here at at PF.
02-18-2013, 06:09 PM   #6
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I did use Photo-Flo and a new squeegee out of the box. Didn't realize it could scratch, but makes sense. Will look out to make sure it doesn't happen. Thx.
02-18-2013, 06:54 PM - 1 Like   #7
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Very good job. Nice tonality and looks relatively clean.

I don't use a squeegee either but I use rubber gloves and simply squeeze the excess water that way. Distilled water and photoflo and so far so good.

02-18-2013, 10:21 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
Distilled water and photoflo and so far so good.
Same here, though I am with Tuco. Mine drip-dry just fine with no squeegee and no fingers. I put clothes pins at the end corners to provide tension on the strip and a point for the water to run away. If the weight of two pins is not enough, I clip a second set onto the tails of the first.


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10-29-2013, 10:31 AM   #9
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I like to hang the film on slant in a seldom used shower stall attaching clips to the corners on one side only. That way the water drains toward the perforations rather than all the way down your strip of film. I use a small suction cup on the wall to get the lower anchor point just right.
10-29-2013, 07:26 PM   #10
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I like the idea of forcing the water to run off the shorter path to the edges. Gonna do that, thx.
11-02-2013, 06:30 AM   #11
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Not bad for a first attempt.
If you happen to have an Android phone you may find this free app valuable. It calculates development times and even gives you an alarm when it's time to agitate.
I've used it for hundreds of large format exposures and don't think I've blown any in the processing side.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=photography.darkroom&hl=en&ref...veloping+timer
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