Chemical storage options

**Sholom** · 03-11-2014, 01:52 PM

Metal and developers is generally not a good combination. Plastic is OK if the length of storage is in the weeks range, not many months. Thicker-walled plastic (e.g. Nalgene bottles) is better, but then you can't squeeze to reduce the air content. Also, some developers (D-23) keep better than others (D-76). As mentioned above, the developer concentrates (Kodak HC-110. Adox Adonal [replaces discontinued Agfa Rodinal]) are excellent keepers even in plastic bottles, but it is important to have accurate measures for dilution to the working strength, and the diluted solutions don't keep.

**ChrisPlatt** · 03-11-2014, 02:22 PM

Nothing is ever easy here! IIRC developer used to come in metal tins.
Modern mason jar metal lids are coated and have silicone seals.
Further once filled there will be a small air gap between liquid and lid.
And if stored in total darkness what difference does clear glass make?

The smallest Walmart peroxide is 1 pint, and now has a suspect flip-top cap.
Mason jars may not be ideal, but they are cheap and readily available.

Unless you can lay your hands on some brown glass "Boston rounds" with phenolic caps...

Chris

tuco · 03-11-2014, 02:38 PM

I stock 250ml and 500ml amber bottles for my main (go-to) developer and 1000ml brown plastic photo bottles for my fixers ( two stage fixing for T-Max films). I use PMK Pyro developer which has a 10-year shelf life and is a one-shot developer. I never have to worry about exhausted developer again or consistency issues with developers that you need to adjust time with the number of rolls you have processed. I also stock HC110 and that too is a long shelf life developer and you can mix it up one-shot or small volumes.

If you go long periods between shooting BW film, one-shot, long shelf life developers are the way to go. They can be both less wasteful (no tossing developer due to age) and be more consistent.

My DIY Film develper

**Digitalis** · 03-11-2014, 05:09 PM

Originally posted by 6BQ5

Would the metal interact with the developer in a bad way?

When dealing with corrosive substances there is always possibility of reaction with metal components, however this is only an issue if the corrosive substance is in constant contact with the metal.

Skullsroad · 03-11-2014, 09:26 PM

Awesome machine Tuco. Love the logo.

There are the bottles I use.

tuco · 03-12-2014, 08:33 AM

Originally posted by Skullsroad

Awesome machine Tuco. Love the logo.

Thanks. It really makes developing film consistent and less of a burden.

stevebrot · 03-13-2014, 10:38 PM

Originally posted by ChrisPlatt

Unless you can lay your hands on some brown glass "Boston rounds" with phenolic caps...

Thanks for the reminder (smacks head...Doh!). I have a stock of 8oz amber "Boston Rounds" (with caps) that I purchased a few years ago from Specialty Bottle in Seattle (http://www.specialtybottle.com). They were $0.86 per bottle at the time, though I believe the price is a little more now. Aliquot your freshly made D-76 developer into the 8oz bottles and use as needed to prepare 1+1 single use working solution. They have larger volume bottles too.

Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 03-13-2014 at 10:44 PM.

03-11-2014, 02:22 PM	#17
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,696	Nothing is ever easy here! IIRC developer used to come in metal tins. Modern mason jar metal lids are coated and have silicone seals. Further once filled there will be a small air gap between liquid and lid. And if stored in total darkness what difference does clear glass make? The smallest Walmart peroxide is 1 pint, and now has a suspect flip-top cap. Mason jars may not be ideal, but they are cheap and readily available. Unless you can lay your hands on some brown glass "Boston rounds" with phenolic caps... Chris Last edited by ChrisPlatt; 03-11-2014 at 02:29 PM.

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03-11-2014, 01:52 PM	#16
Sholom Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Massachusetts Photos: Gallery Posts: 125	Metal and developers is generally not a good combination. Plastic is OK if the length of storage is in the weeks range, not many months. Thicker-walled plastic (e.g. Nalgene bottles) is better, but then you can't squeeze to reduce the air content. Also, some developers (D-23) keep better than others (D-76). As mentioned above, the developer concentrates (Kodak HC-110. Adox Adonal [replaces discontinued Agfa Rodinal]) are excellent keepers even in plastic bottles, but it is important to have accurate measures for dilution to the working strength, and the diluted solutions don't keep.

03-11-2014, 02:38 PM	#18
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,029	I stock 250ml and 500ml amber bottles for my main (go-to) developer and 1000ml brown plastic photo bottles for my fixers ( two stage fixing for T-Max films). I use PMK Pyro developer which has a 10-year shelf life and is a one-shot developer. I never have to worry about exhausted developer again or consistency issues with developers that you need to adjust time with the number of rolls you have processed. I also stock HC110 and that too is a long shelf life developer and you can mix it up one-shot or small volumes. If you go long periods between shooting BW film, one-shot, long shelf life developers are the way to go. They can be both less wasteful (no tossing developer due to age) and be more consistent. My DIY Film develper

03-11-2014, 05:09 PM	#19
Digitalis Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Melbourne, Victoria Photos: Gallery Posts: 11,694	Originally posted by 6BQ5 Would the metal interact with the developer in a bad way? When dealing with corrosive substances there is always possibility of reaction with metal components, however this is only an issue if the corrosive substance is in constant contact with the metal.

03-11-2014, 09:26 PM	#20
Skullsroad Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Bay Area Posts: 267	Awesome machine Tuco. Love the logo. There are the bottles I use.

03-12-2014, 08:33 AM	#21
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,029	Originally posted by Skullsroad Awesome machine Tuco. Love the logo. Thanks. It really makes developing film consistent and less of a burden.

03-13-2014, 10:38 PM	#22
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by ChrisPlatt Unless you can lay your hands on some brown glass "Boston rounds" with phenolic caps... Thanks for the reminder (smacks head...Doh!). I have a stock of 8oz amber "Boston Rounds" (with caps) that I purchased a few years ago from Specialty Bottle in Seattle (http://www.specialtybottle.com). They were $0.86 per bottle at the time, though I believe the price is a little more now. Aliquot your freshly made D-76 developer into the 8oz bottles and use as needed to prepare 1+1 single use working solution. They have larger volume bottles too. Steve Last edited by stevebrot; 03-13-2014 at 10:44 PM.