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03-08-2014, 09:45 PM   #1
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Setting up my first darkroom

Hello,

I'm currenty setting up my first darkroom. It's very exciting, especially after just getting into 35mm photography.

A couple days ago I picked up some used darkroom equipment;

Krokus 66 enlarger with condensor and lens
various used (some antique) chemicals
Tongs, trays
busted timer
various sizes of sealed and opened paper
other odds and ends

I paid $100 for all this and quickly realised I overpaid. Ah, rookie mistake. But learning what not to do is just as important as learning what to do. And yes, this is what I'm telling myself to make myself feel better... Lol

Anyways, I cleaned and setup the Krokus, all is good there. With the chemicals, I figure it's best to just start over so I've bought/ordered what I need, lest a few.

I got a red bulb today. A red LED, Philips 13 watt. I know this isn't kosher, but I'm willing to roll the dice and do some tests, it cost me a buck eighty seven and I couldn't pass it up. Yes, there's definitely something to be said for having the right tools. But I think there's also something to be said for doing something practically, creatively, and non friviously. Yes.. I may have made that last word up.

So.. Now, lastly, I'm waiting for my Polymax T. I have D76, two liters of Ilford rapid fixer, vinegar instead of stop, and two spent rolls of test B&W film. While I wait for the Polymax I was thinking of developing this way... Buy a gallon of distilled water, develop the D76 into the jug, then separate it for convenience sake into three or four screw cap wine bottles. Rather than have it stay in the 2L jug as it empties and fills with O2.

All this being said, I'm always, ALWAYS, looking for advice. My methods may be illogical and imperfect, I dunno, I'm doing this for the first time. So any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

Pinko

03-09-2014, 11:40 AM   #2
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There is no "good enough" with a safe-light. I would save a buck trying to re-use the old chemicals or just feel around in the dark before I skimped on the red light bulb.
You got a working enlarger. Did it come with its bulb? That's $100 right there. The rest is all bonus. Good for you!
03-10-2014, 12:05 AM   #3
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If you are new to chemical photomaking I woldn't start off with materials of dubious quality, like old chemicals and papers or a bulb that really is nothing like what you should have. It's just likely to make the enterprise a disappointment.

Old fixer may work ok. Vinegar will work instead of stop. You need distilled water only for the last rinse, and probably not even there.

There are air-evac bottles that allow you to squeeze out the air. You can make do with normal soft plastic bottles if you don't find those. They are in any case better than wine bottles.

A 13 watt LED will give you way too much light, and probably the wrong wavelength. If all your prints turn out greyish that's a possible cause. And remember, when handling film you should be in complete darkness.

I don't know the specifics of a Krokus 66 but if you want to continue making prints you should have an enlarger with color filters to make it possible to adjust the contrast of the prints. Ilford Multigrade seems to be sold still.
03-10-2014, 12:18 PM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pinko Quote
I got a red bulb today. A red LED, Philips 13 watt. I know this isn't kosher
No it is not kosher and it will not work, particularly if you are developing negatives. Loading the developing tank should be done in complete darkness.

As for printing, get a real safelight and only use the recommended low-wattage tungsten bulbs. Do not substitute LED or CF bulbs.


Steve

03-10-2014, 12:52 PM   #5
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You don't need much light in the darkroom; just enough to find things.
Get a real safelight. OC is the right type for black and white printing.

Chris
03-10-2014, 05:18 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
OC is the right type for black and white printing.
Thanks for that qualification!
03-19-2014, 04:18 PM   #7
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I have seen a number of reports from people using red LED lights as safelights without issue. Do a safelight test and if it works you are good to go.

OC / amber / orange / light brown is the recommended safelight for working with papers but, as far as I know, red works just fine too. Don't forget multigrade papers are blue-sensitive materials. In terms of wavelegth, red light is actually farther from blue than orange. I believe orange is normally used just because it's easier to see than with the red light. I have used both for B&W printing.

03-26-2014, 07:52 PM   #8
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I would suggest that a paper fog test might be in order. It is easy to do. Partially mask the paper and expose to the safelight for several minutes.


Steve
03-30-2014, 05:08 PM   #9
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Red safelights can fog modern papers. Amber or OC are the recommended lights for modern variable contrast papers. Check the sheet that's packed with your paper for confirmation.

Paper is much more expensive than a good safelight. Ruin as much paper as you want, but I would much rather spend the $20 or so for a proper safelight.
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