[pai]

Hi everyone. Does anybody here have some tips on developing Arista Premium 400 (@400) in HC-110? The times given on the MDC are a little confusing, ranging from 4 mins to 7.5 mins at the same dilution (B).

[stevebrot]

As you are probably aware, Arista Premium 400 is purported to be repackaged Tri-X (400TX). The Kodak data sheet for Tri-X indicates a development time for dilution B of 3m 45s @ 68F.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf

Covington's HC-110 Unofficial Resource Page repeats these numbers but with a cautionary note indicating that a higher dilution with longer time is preferable. He suggests dilution E (1+47) for 6m 30s @ 68F.

Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page

You may already know this about HC-110, but you must provide a minimum of 6ml syrup per roll of film regardless of dilution used. Dilution E will result in a minimum of 288 ml solution. For 35mm I usually use dilution H (1+63) with a single metal reel in a two-reel tank. (I add a couple of empty film cans to displace volume and to prevent excess sloshing/reel movement).


Steve

[pai]

Thanks Steve, for the detailed and informative reply. I have used Covington's HC110 resource page innumerable times in the past for mixing dilutions, but failed to notice the part where he talks about Tri-X! I had a feeling the 3:45 minutes listed on the data sheet was wrong, but this confirms it. The MDC's listed times range from 4.5 mins to 7.5 mins, which was confusing as well.

I live in the tropics where maintaining 68F through the duration of the dev process requires a large water bath, frequent temperature measurements, ice cubes and what not during development. Totally not worth the effort. With all my other films (Orwo UN54 and Fuji Acros usually) I develop at 24 Deg. C (75F) using Dil. E or more and compensate the time for the higher temperature, which eventually gives me normal dev times. This is why I prefer HC110's flexibility. With a given time of 3:45 at 20C, that would have been impossible to work out.

[ChrisPlatt]

It's good advice to avoid development times of less than five minutes.

Chris

[pai]

That was the reason I had doubts on Kodak's recommended time of 3:45 and the wide range of times on the MDC. Didn't make sense. Well, I just finished developing the roll using HC110 dil. H (1+63) for 9 mins at 24 deg. C (75F). The negs look fine to me, but let's see what the scanner says tomorrow

[tuco]

I live in the tropics where maintaining 68F through the duration of the dev process requires a large water bath ....

Perhaps you may be interested in using the Diafine Developer. A two bath developer that has one development time for temperatures between 70-85°F (21-30°C).

[stevebrot]

Perhaps you may be interested in using the Diafine Developer. A two bath developer that has one development time for temperatures between 70-85°F (21-30°C).

I was thinking the same thing.


Steve

[pai]

Thanks for the suggestion Tuco and Steve. D76 and Foma Universal are the only developers available where I live (India), so until I find someone travelling from the states and willing to carry this for me, I am stuck with my bottles of HC110. Diafine sounds very interesting and might be my best option. I'll give it a try when I can.

Meanwhile, I've scanned my roll of film. I used dilution H for 9 minutes at 24°C (75°F). This was a test roll, so I shot in different lighting conditions. These are pretty much straight out of the scanner. I applied a little sharpening and set the black point to unexposed film while scanning.







Any thoughts?

[stevebrot]

Any thoughts?

Without actually seeing the negatives, it is hard to say. They look a little overdeveloped to me. I would have expected about 7 minutes at 24C with dilution H.

[pai]

Thanks for the assessment Steve. That helps. I've been doing this for a few years, but still don't have the eye to assess negatives. On closer inspection, the negatives do look a little too contrasty. I'll try 7 minutes at 24°C next time. This roll was just a test to see if I can use this film with HC110. Until I can get more of this though, it is back to my regulars — Orwo UN54 in 135 and Neopan Acros in 120.

[stevebrot]

Orwo UN54 in 135

Orwo? Where is that film made.


Steve

[pai]

Orwo? Where is that film made.

Orwo is motion picture film manufactured by Filmotec in Germany.
Camera Films | Orwo Filmotec

ORWO North America | About Us has more details and is the official distributor for North America.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/1924424@N22/ is a Flickr group dedicated to Orwo films.

You should give it a try if possible. Don't know about the prices there, but it works out to be quite cheap for me and gives good results. I've only recently started using UN54 as my regular 35mm black and white film.

[stevebrot]

Orwo is motion picture film manufactured by Filmotec in Germany.

Interesting. The Wikipedia article on Orwo just sort of ends with a few statements that are no longer accurate. That is common for companies that continue to exist in name only. I will have to add them to my list of companies that still coat their own emulsions. FWIW, despite the N. America entity, the film is not sold under that name in the U.S., though it might be rebranded.


Steve

---------- Post added 10-09-14 at 11:41 AM ----------

the film is not sold under that name in the U.S.

I just spent a few minutes on the FilmTec Web site and on the ORWO North America Web site and now realize that they only sell in long rolls (30+ meters) through orwona.com site. If did not already have two full bulk loaders, I might try it. $30 USD for 100' is not a bad price.


Steve

[tuco]

Those results are pretty bad. I cannot believe that is 100 film. Perhaps it is like using Rodnial with 320TXP. That developer/film combo is terrible and caused grain clumping and just flat-out bad results.

[MD Optofonik]

I've just started using the Arista Premium 400. Developing it in D76 at the standard times for Tri-X gave me results that I'm quite happy with so far. Tri-X and D76 is a classic combo that has worked for many a photographer over the years. Having D76 as one of your limited options isn't a bad thing.

What scanner are you using?