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04-29-2015, 05:23 PM - 1 Like   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Nevada, USA
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Using a FluCard on a K-3 to camera-scan films

I have been using a FluCard in my K-3 to help manually focus my D-FA 50mm f/2.8 when I camera-scan my negatives. The system works very well for the most part. On the positive side I get a larger viewing area on my monitor vs. the camera screen. The remote trigger reduces, if not eliminates, shake. Not all is perfect though. On the negative side, there is some lag when focusing - so focus slowly. The live video stream suffers from data compression. When there is too much detail in an image the video stream shows a lot of artifacts. I get around this by temporarily adding in negative exposure compensation. This reduces the effect of focus peaking which shows up as lots of bright pixelated data. Once focused I restore the proper exposure level. The video feed is of a lower resolution than the in-camera screen. Zooming in changes all that but the zoom is fixed to a tiny area. Sometimes the WiFi signal drops out when the battery levels drop to 1/3. I make sure my batteries are charged prior to scanning.

Here's what my Remote Capture screen looks like when camera-scanning Rollei CR-200 film. This film is very grainy and the excessive grain causes the focusing peaking to go nuts. It's easy to focus if the video bandwidth is not overwhelmed. If it is overwhelmed then the video feed looks like gibberish. Lower the exposure temporarily, focus, and then restore exposure.

This frame was a little dark to begin with so I added +0.7 exposure compensation. The increased intensity is not affecting the video feed. Clicking on the magnifying glass in the upper right hand corner will cause the video feed to zoom into the area selected by the square.

Now you can really see the grain in that film - yuck! Side note - this is why I don't like Rollei film. I am so done with it. Double yuck! Anyways ...

Zooming in like this, especially with this film, makes focusing a easy peasy lemon squeezey. After focusing I zoom back out and click the remote shutter button.

Negative films are a little harder to focus on since there is a lot less contrast in them compared to reversal films. The orange mask doesn't help either. It's not impossible though. Just select something with as high of contrast as possible. After all, you're focusing on a flat surface. So even the out of focus areas on the film are good candidates sometimes as long as you can get the focus peaking to kick in. Otherwise, just go slow and stare at the screen. Eventually you'll see the grain even without focusing peaking. Also, your focus changes by a tiny, tiny amount between frames if at all. There's not much adjustment needed after the first frame. Just a verification and a tweak.


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