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12-07-2015, 07:23 AM   #16
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When I did B&W, I used the following film tanks: Kodak Hobbyist; Kindermann; Nikor; Patterson.

1) The Kodak came with acetate strips the same width but slightly longer than a 36 exposure roll of film. The edges of the acetate were corrugated to keep film & acetate sheet apart as they were rolled up together, and there was a heavy, perforated stainless steel disk that went atop the film + acetate strip in the tank. The tank had no lid, so swirl only - no inversion. By a wide margin the easiest film loading, and I never detected any irregularity in development.

2) The Kindermann stainless steel tanks and reels were built like a tank, MUCH thicker metal than the common stainless steel tanks. There was a film pinching stainless steel feeder attached to a plastic grip with a steel pin onto which you slipped one of the reels. Feed the film through the "pincher" until it hit the catch device at the center of the reel, then crank the reel on the pin (the end of one of the steel coils was bent up at the edge of the reel to provide a crank-handle) until the film was fully onto the reel. Used this for both 35mm and 120 (when I owned a Bronica for a short time). When it worked, it was fine, when the film skipped out of the coils, it was hard to detect and if detected, was hard to correct by removing the film and starting again. Ruined frames several times because of mis-loading.

3) Nikor stainless tanks are the common, universal standard. I primarily used a single-roll tank and when I wanted to do multiple rolls, I used the Kindermann tank. There is definitely a knack to loading the reels that takes practice to get 100% reliable.

4) Patterson reels, using two and four roll Patterson tanks, are slightly trickier to load than the Kodak system, but easier than the standard Nikors. Once you get the film caught in the ratchet mechanism, it generally loads smoothly. I generally used the stirring rod all the way through the processing rather than putting on a lid and inverting.

Think I still have both the Nikor & Patterson reels & tanks, almost certain the Kodak system is gone (the acetate gradually deteriorates) and I think I consigned the Kindermann to metal recycling, reluctantly because it was so beautifully made. PM if you're interested in used darkroom equipment.

NOTE ADDED: Forgot the very first tank I used, owned by my father (he did very little processing) who purchased it way back. Made by Federal and made of Bakelite (both tank & adjustable reel) a very heavy, rigid, somewhat brittle plastic. Film was loaded by pushing it into the grooves of the reel, but the increase in friction with a 36 exposure roll was impossible. Think I only used it once or twice before purchasing the vastly easier to load Kodak tank system.


Last edited by WPRESTO; 12-07-2015 at 08:13 AM.
12-07-2015, 07:29 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
t it will not fail if you try to advance past the last frame
while film cassette is still loaded in your camera.
In itself a very good reason to have a changing bag available!!!!
12-07-2015, 07:47 AM   #18
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On the rewind, you have to know how to leave a bit of the leader out of the canister . You can feel it release from the take up, and stop winding, with a bit of practise.
If that fails you are left with the task of opening the canister destructively, in the dark. I use an ordinary bottle opener in that case.
12-07-2015, 09:19 AM   #19
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I'm not afraid of taking a can-opener to a commercial canister as I have no plans for bulk buying and cartridge reloading right now. I do however have a likely source for both uncoded and even what appear to be coded reusable cassettes, if that should change, but they come apart more easily IIRC. I doubt I would need the coded ones; they would only be of benefit in my P3 and P30T, and most of the time I would be using an ME, MX or Spotmatic anyway.

12-07-2015, 10:05 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by G and T Quote
My changing bag is large enough to comfortably fit an empty beer carton (24 x 330ml bottles) inside.

After emptying one of those I would no longer care about developing my film!

Chris
12-07-2015, 10:16 AM   #21
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I've heard rumours you can develop prints in wine, but have not heard about beer.

However, I also hear that paracetamol (acetaminophen for North Americans) is a key ingredient in a home-bake substitute for Rodinal. The important thing to remember after emptying the beer carton down your throat is to put the thirty headache tablets in the developer mix and two down your throat, not the other way around (or it will annihilate what's left of your liver and you will die without an emergency transplant).
12-07-2015, 07:39 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
After emptying one of those I would no longer care about developing my film!
It all adds to pleasure of developing your own film.

I have many times spent all night in my darkroom and a fridge half filled with beer in my darkroom is essential, the other half is usually filled with film. Just remember to turn the light off in the fridge.
Glenn
12-08-2015, 04:42 AM   #23
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Just make sure you're drinking beer and not rapid-fix...

03-19-2016, 06:18 PM   #24
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And it all appears to have worked. The negatives came out with recognizable images, which I consider good enough for the first try. We shall see how it scans tomorrow.
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