[Lenscap]

I got a Paterson tank and Ilford chemistry to develop my B/W film. I have a grand total of two rolls of Tri-X developed so far, and to my untrained eye, they look fine.

My question has to do with spooling the film onto the developing spools. Do you pull all the film out and cut it loose, then wind it on the spool, or do you leave the cartridge attached until it's spooled up and then cut it loose?

FWIW, I'm doing this in a light-free closet, not a changing bag, so space is not a concern.

Thanks.

[LesDMess]

My question has to do with spooling the film onto the developing spools. Do you pull all the film out and cut it loose, then wind it on the spool, or do you leave the cartridge attached until it's spooled up and then cut it loose?

I unspool and cut the film off the cartridge and then put it on the developing spools.

[Lenscap]

I unspool and cut the film off the cartridge and then put it on the developing spools.

Do you have issues with the film curling up and getting twisted?

I've done it once each way, and it felt like a snarled mess both times.

Probably, like most things, experience helps.

[LesDMess]

Do you have issues with the film curling up and getting twisted?

I've done it once each way, and it felt like a snarled mess both times.

Probably, like most things, experience helps.

Either way I am sure one gets used to it many rolls later.

[commongrounder]

Are those the Patterson plastic spools? If so, they have a self loading feature where you start the film at the outside, and twist the two flanges back and forth to pull in the film. I unload the canister and let the roll curl up around my pinky fingers. While twisting the spool, the film will feed right in. Be very certain the spools are bone dry or the auto feed system will bind up. It is easier to do than to describe!
Practice in the daylight with developed film.

[Lenscap]

Are those the Patterson plastic spools? If so, they have a self loading feature where you start the film at the outside, and twist the two flanges back and forth to pull in the film. I unload the canister and let the roll curl up around my pinky fingers. While twisting the spool, the film will feed right in. Be very certain the spools are bone dry or the auto feed system will bind up. It is easier to do than to describe!
Practice in the daylight with developed film.

Yes, that's the kind of spools I have. I'll try that around-the-finger technique.

[VisualDarkness]

I try not to sweat, hand sweat is my biggest enemy enemy in my changing bag.

[Alex645]

There is no right or wrong way. I usually cut the film off the spool before loading it onto the reel, but your way makes a lot of sense to reduce the curling issue. You'll also find that 36 exposure loads or bulk-loaded film tends to be less curled.

I once read an article written by an engineer that showed evidence that bulk-loaded and 36 exposure loads were sharper than shorter factory loaded film because of the decrease in curl that occurs on the back pressure plate of the camera.

BTW: Thanks to you, next time I load 120 film (which can be a real pain once you take the reel and paper backing off) I'll try to leave it attached to the reel and paper until it must come off.

[Lenscap]

As far as spooling the film with the cartridge on, I was kind of trying to cheat. I pulled out just a bit of film -no more than would have been exposed when loading the camera. Then I started that much film onto the spool in daylight, then got in the dark to spool the rest. I don't suggest that this is The One True Way for sure...just a rookie trying to make it work.

[Alex645]

I teach dozens of teenagers each year how to load 35mm film onto Paterson reels and they all fear they can't do it, yet they all succeed. What helps them is I have dummy film for them to practice with eyes open in a lit room, then while standing, I have them practice with eyes shut, and then they practice in total darkness. What's interesting is that for some, it helps to keep their eyes closed in the dark while others keep their eyes open. Psychologically one or the other helps to visualize what you cannot see.

This is another instance where "practice makes perfect" is not so true as "perfect practice makes perfect".

[Not a Number]

I use a bottle opener and pop off the end of the film cassette and pull out the spool and film. I cut off the header and then wind it into the developing spool, cupping the film spool in the palm of my hand. No worries of getting lint or dust or scratching the film should there be some grit in the light trap on the cassette. Cut the film spool of at the end and that's it. Either in the darkroom or in a changing bag.

[john.margetts]

As far as spooling the film with the cartridge on, I was kind of trying to cheat. I pulled out just a bit of film -no more than would have been exposed when loading the camera. Then I started that much film onto the spool in daylight, then got in the dark to spool the rest. I don't suggest that this is The One True Way for sure...just a rookie trying to make it work.

That is exactly how I do it. Cannot see the point in struggling in the dark with fogged film.

[ChrisPlatt]

When I first started developing film I sometimes experienced negatives scratched the entire length of the film.
Turned out it wasn't caused by the camera but by worn or dirty light trap material on the film cartridge.

Since then I always remove the spooled exposed film from the cartridge before loading onto the developing reel.
I also check my cartridges before reloading and clean or retire them as necessary.

Check

[Lenscap]

I'll be trying various methods as I progress. I hadn't thought about scratches from the cartridge. Another hundred rolls or so, and I should have it figured out. And then there's 120 film...

Thanks for your input.

[john.margetts]

I have never understood how people might get the cassette felt dirty enough to scratch the film. Mine are either in the camera or in the plastic pot they come in.