[Alex645]

Anyway, I'm replying because I'm curious: which Pentax films cameras don't let you set your own ISO and have no exposure compensation?

I didn't mean to single out Pentax SLRs, as I've seen other makes with the issue. Right now I have a student with a Pentax SF10 that I believe only uses DX coded cassettes or defaults to ISO 100. If anyone knows if this model has exposure compensation (other than manual adjustments) please let me know!

---------- Post added 11-28-16 at 02:07 PM ----------

I teach students to use both factory and bulk loaded film, so I think both have their own pros and cons.

My main issue with bulk loading is that it adds an element that can ruin the negatives. It's like underwater housings; it's not if it will leak, it is when it will leak. I've found very few photographers replace their reloadable cassettes before they fail. We tend to replace things only after they begin to have light trap issues. In some cases, it's minor, but in others, it is not acceptable and buying factory loaded film is one less potential problem.

[lithedreamer]

I didn't mean to single out Pentax SLRs, as I've seen other makes with the issue. Right now I have a student with a Pentax SF10 that I believe only uses DX coded cassettes or defaults to ISO 100. If anyone knows if this model has exposure compensation (other than manual adjustments) please let me know!

---------- Post added 11-28-16 at 02:07 PM ----------

I teach students to use both factory and bulk loaded film, so I think both have their own pros and cons.

My main issue with bulk loading is that it adds an element that can ruin the negatives. It's like underwater housings; it's not if it will leak, it is when it will leak. I've found very few photographers replace their reloadable cassettes before they fail. We tend to replace things only after they begin to have light trap issues. In some cases, it's minor, but in others, it is not acceptable and buying factory loaded film is one less potential problem.

Hmm. My first roll of B&W had light leaks, but that was because I developed it myself, and hadn't realised how much light was leaking into my bathroom (combined with an incredible amount of clumsiness having never put film on reels before).

Everyone in the class thought the effect was cool (vertical bands of light across my prints), but my professor chided me for the mistake. Some of those frames were just completely blank. If that had happened to the whole roll, then or now, I could see why you'd want to avoid that.

I pulled up the SF10's manual: dang, that thing's thin compared to my camera. I also did some research online. As you said, it defaults to ISO 100, and there is no exposure compensation dial. If I had to work with that camera, I'd bring my light meter, but it's fancy enough to let me dial in ISO, and I'm not sure how common that is...

Thanks for the perspective. I have a couple of finished rolls burning, waiting to be developed (1 B&W, 1 C-41). I shoot a lot less film since I stepped up to digital full-frame, and I've been too sick to actually develop them myself. Still, I love the process, and I'm sure as soon as I'm better the bathroom door wil be taped up soon again.

[ChrisPlatt]

FWIW my Pentax P3N film speed setting is by DX only, with no exposure compensation.
I use film in DX coded cassettes with it, or ISO 100 film in non-DX coded cassettes.

Chris

[brofkand]

FWIW my Pentax P3N film speed setting is by DX only, with no exposure compensation.
I use film in DX coded cassettes with it, or ISO 100 film in non-DX coded cassettes.

Chris

Same with the P30T, but you can dial in manual exposure - so it isn't too difficult to make sure your actual exposure is 2 stops off, if using 400 speed bulk film.

[wombat2go]

I buy C41 chems from macodirect.de and the site still shows shipping details and prices to many countries including USA.

[gofour3]

Same with the P30T, but you can dial in manual exposure -

Yep the only P Series film bodies with exposure compensation were the P5/P50.

Phil.