[Stagnant]

Not long ago I purchased a roll of expired Fuji Neopan Acros 100 (2017 March) and Fuji Provia 100F (2017 April). I keep both of them in my fridge. So the question is, should I somehow compensate exposure speeds if I am planing to shoot them in the next couple of weeks ?

Thanks in advance !

[twilhelm]

I have never compensated exposure. I have a fridge full of expired film, the higher ISO film doesn't seem to fare as well as the lower ISO.

[gofour3]

They are only a few months expired, so I would shoot them at box speed.

You could bracket a few shots and change the ASA/ISO setting to 80 if you wish, to see if it's any better. Just have the film processed at box speed, regardless if you moved the ASA setting for a few shots.

Phil.

[Stagnant]

Thanks for suggestions !

[hooverfocus]

I would shoot Acros at 80 even when fresh.
But in general a few months old film is probably just as good as new*. You should start compensating when it's decades old (I go for a stop every decade). Slide film generally has consequent colour shifts, negative film likely an increase in grain.


* does not apply to CineStill. Go ahead and ask me how I know...

[Stagnant]

My P3 camera lacks the ability to control ISO. I can only manually change exposure at a step of one stop. Thanks for the info (I don't have cine still, so it does not matter :P)!

[gofour3]

* does not apply to CineStill. Go ahead and ask me how I know...

OK I'm dying to hear why. Have a roll of the daylight 50 in the fridge and have used that film for a couple years.

Phil.

[pathdoc]

It's months, not years; box speed should be fine.

I note two people have advised you to shoot it as if it were ISO 80. Are you sending it out or developing it yourself? If you're sending it out, you could consider asking the advice of the people doing the processing and they might give it a bit of a 'push' for you (whatever small amount it takes to push an ISO 80 film to 100). If you're doing it yourself, that process is under your control.

For those giving the advice, how does this change OP's development time (given that he can't change ISO manually)?

[hooverfocus]

OK I'm dying to hear why. Have a roll of the daylight 50 in the fridge and have used that film for a couple years.

Phil.

I bought a roll of 50D from a generally well-regarded online retailer. Didn't use it immediately but kept it in the fridge until use, which was still within the 6 months advised by the company (at least from the date of purchase). Eventually I got round to shoot it and had it developed at a lab I had already used and trusted in the past. When I scanned the negative, though, most of the frames were covered by a sort of cloudy red pattern. At first I thought it was a lab's developement problem, and was about to have it reblixed at a friend's to see if it got any better, but then I decided to run a search online anyway. Turns out what I was seeing was "age fog", as per the company's own findings. I contacted them to be sure and they confirmed it (and sent over a free replacement roll, so kudos to them). They explained that any rolls that were undated were likely old stock (they started dating them when they found out about the issue), so even if I had used it within the six months period from purchase, the film had probably been sitting in the shop for a long while already. They went on to recommend another retailer.

Bottom line, only use CineStill that has an exp. date on it, use it within the given period, and expect anything old or undated to have gone bad.

---------- Post added 02-07-17 at 00:27 ----------

It's months, not years; box speed should be fine.

I note two people have advised you to shoot it as if it were ISO 80. Are you sending it out or developing it yourself? If you're sending it out, you could consider asking the advice of the people doing the processing and they might give it a bit of a 'push' for you (whatever small amount it takes to push an ISO 80 film to 100). If you're doing it yourself, that process is under your control.

For those giving the advice, how does this change OP's development time (given that he can't change ISO manually)?

It's more to do with the film itself than and age-related advice. Acros seems to be more of an ISO 80 film than an ISO 100. Then again if you're not processing yourself you'd probably just want to use it as is, there are so many other variables out of your control it's hardly going to make a difference.

Since he can't dial in a different ISO and only has 1-stop exposures available, either forget about that and use box speed, or if you really wanna give it a go, try hacking the DX code on the canister (never done it myself, but a friend of mine did and apparently it worked).

[gofour3]

Bottom line, only use CineStill that has an exp. date on it, use it within the given period, and expect anything old or undated to have gone bad.

Thanks for the info. I bought mine from a local film store who kept it in a fridge and it has an expiry date of 12/2017. So I'm good to go.

Phil.

[Stagnant]

It's months, not years; box speed should be fine.

I note two people have advised you to shoot it as if it were ISO 80. Are you sending it out or developing it yourself? If you're sending it out, you could consider asking the advice of the people doing the processing and they might give it a bit of a 'push' for you (whatever small amount it takes to push an ISO 80 film to 100). If you're doing it yourself, that process is under your control.

For those giving the advice, how does this change OP's development time (given that he can't change ISO manually)?

At this point it is not economically feasible to process film at home, so I send it to one of the film labs I trust. Recently I have been sending my film to Mein Film Lab in Germany, so perhaps, I will ask them about it. Thanks for recommendation !

[pathdoc]

It's more to do with the film itself than any age-related advice. Acros seems to be more of an ISO 80 film than an ISO 100.

I certainly gathered as much, at least in your case; I assume your statement is backed by experience and/or densitometry measurements in this regard. This would take what, half a stop, off the rated speed? A third? Is it really worth hassling about, or do fractional stops actually make that much of a difference when shooting slow?

[hooverfocus]

I certainly gathered as much, at least in your case; I assume your statement is backed by experience and/or densitometry measurements in this regard. This would take what, half a stop, off the rated speed? A third? Is it really worth hassling about, or do fractional stops actually make that much of a difference when shooting slow?

Yes it's one of the few films we tested/measured back when I was still studying. It's a third–not much by any means, and virtually irrelevant if you don't control the other parameters down the line. Long story short, if rating it slower is a hassle (e.g. the OP's camera limitations) then no, it's probably not worth it, but if possible, I guess it's still better to shoot at the optimal speed of the film to begin with (unless you're going for a particular look, obviously).