[Vendee]

How long can D-76 mixed live in a bottle like that? It could take me a good month or more to get through a gallon. Probably longer. Seems too long even with a bottle like that.

I keep my D-76 in bottles like that. They reckon in will keep up to 6 months but I limit mine to 4 months.

[pres589]

Good to know. I hope that this goes well, I enjoy the process, and keep developing after the first developer I have purchased is gone.

[stevebrot]

HC 110 is not at all difficult to use. Use a cheap plastic syringe for medical purpuse, I use a 5 ml and a 10 ml it works great.

That is what I use too, though getting a few at retail may be a challenge.

Never use less than 5 ml developer.

The importance of this note cannot be overstated. HC-110 is famous for being useful at multiple dilutions beyond the standard "A" (1+15) and "B" (1+30). (Yes, a little HC-110 goes a long way.) I usually use unofficial dilutions "G" (1+63) or "H" (1+119) with longer times and take care to make sure that at least 6ml of concentrate is used. For 35mm, that means doing one roll in a two roll tank with twice the volume and an empty reel as a spacer.*

Look for HC 110- unofficial resource page and digital truth: Massive development chart on the net.

For HC-110, the "Unofficial Resource Page" is an incredible resource, if for no other reason than it points out the difference between concentrations/dilutions for either side of the Atlantic.

Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page


Steve

* A good rule of thumb is that a roll of 35mm has about the same surface area as a roll of 120 or two 4x5" sheets. All require the same minimum amount of developer "activity" to ensure that full development into the shadows occurs.

[pres589]

Does the "never less than 5ml" suggestion apply to other liquid developers or just HC-110? Meaning, do I need to apply this rule to F76+? I do have a cheap syringe on its way as well as a small graduated beaker to aid in measurement.

[stevebrot]

Does the "never less than 5ml" suggestion apply to other liquid developers or just HC-110? Meaning, do I need to apply this rule to F76+? I do have a cheap syringe on its way as well as a small graduated beaker to aid in measurement.

With other developers, the amount would be different, but the principle remains the same. That being said, for most developers at manufacture-recommended dilutions, no extra volume is needed. As for measuring with a syringe, that is only needed if the developer is very concentrated and/or very viscous; HC-110 is both. Usually, the graduated cylinder used for other liquid measurements should be adequate for making dilutions.

For F76+, your stock solution is made with 1 part concentrate + 9 parts water (1:9). The stock solution may be used full strength or diluted 1:1 in the same manner as D76. (Assuming it behaves similarly to D76. The Clayton label directions are not helpful.)


Steve

[abruzzi]

With other developers, the amount would be different, but the principle remains the same. That being said, for most developers at manufacture-recommended dilutions, no extra volume is needed. As for measuring with a syringe, that is only needed if the developer is very concentrated and/or very viscous; HC-110 is both. Usually, the graduated cylinder used for other liquid measurements should be adequate for making dilutions.

Rodinal has a similar requirement, somewhere around 5ml. I occasionally use 5ml in 500ml of water for stand developing and it can work very well. It would probably be easier to dispense with a syringe, but I've generally used a very small graduated cylinder. But unlike HC-110, Rodinal is very thin and pours easily. I always flush the cylinder several times with water that is going into mix because 5ml isn't much, and I want it all in the tank.

[niels hansen]

I agree with stevebrot and abruzzi. It is more convinient with longer developmenttimes. It is almost uimpossible to make significant errors in manageing the time if it is long enough. Steves memory is better than mine, the minimum amount of HC110 is 6ml
Kodak D76 and Ilford ID 11 has the same formula

[disconnekt]

If you're on a tight-ish budget, there's Legacy Pro L110 versio (similiar formula to Kodaks HC-110) for $14 (LegacyPro L110 Liquid Film Developer - 1 Pint (Makes 2 Gallons) | Freestyle Photographic Supplies), can also be found on b&h)

[pres589]

What's going on here with the two marks in about the middle of the frame?



Looks like water spots. Nearly every frame had them in the image. I made sure to tap the tank a couple times after each inversion / set of inversions. Perhaps related, how much wetting agent should I use, approximately, with a single roll of 35mm in the tank and I'm at the end? How long & how to handle? I'm using the Android app from Massive Dev Chart and it doesn't talk about wetting agent, unless "Hypo Clear" is wetting agent. I'm using some stuff from Tentenal mixed per their instructions.

The above is from my first roll of film that I've developed myself. Foma 400, 1+9, no push/pull, using instructions from Massive Dev Chart. F76+ developer. I'm really happy with how it came out overall, just looking for ideas on the water marks. I didn't try to remove excess water myself, just let it hang and drip off on its own.

[Alex645]

What's going on here with the two marks in about the middle of the frame?

Looks like water spots. Nearly every frame had them in the image. I'm using the Android app from Massive Dev Chart and it doesn't talk about wetting agent, unless "Hypo Clear" is wetting agent.

Yes, that looks like water spots which are more common if your tap water has a high mineral content.

Hypo Clearing Agent is a wash aid to reduce your wash times after fixing, but is not a wetting agent.
Kodak Photo-Flo or Ilford Ilfotol are wetting agents and you only need a drop or two into a film tank of water, stir it with a clean film squeegee to get bubbles, soak for about 30 seconds, and then squeegee the film a couple times before drying.

Kodak Photo-Flo 200 Solution (16 oz) 1464510 B&H Photo Video

Ilford Ilfotol Wetting Agent (Liquid) 1905162 B&H Photo Video

Paterson Film Squeegee PTP211 B&H Photo Video

You can re-wash your negs, soak in a small tank with 1-2 drops of wetting agent, and squeegee and dry to fix the problem.

[niels hansen]

If it doesnot help to rewash because the deposit is chalk you will have to refix witth a acid fix , rewash and then wetting agent. I use neutral sulfo soap for dishwash.
You find the amount if you look at the film, it must be smooth witthout any "pearls" .
The greytones in your photo are fine

[abruzzi]

If your water is particularly hard, get some distilled water and just use it for the final setting agent wash. (It’s fine to use it for all the steps, but the last wash is where it will make a difference.

[Vendee]

If your water is particularly hard, get some distilled water and just use it for the final setting agent wash. (It’s fine to use it for all the steps, but the last wash is where it will make a difference.

That's what I do. I live in a hard water area and using distilled or demineralised water for the final rinse solves the issue completely. I even use it for the final rinse of my wet prints and I find that helps a little but for negatives, its vital because any water spots get magnified in scanning or wet printing.

[pres589]

I bought some Tentenal wetting agent and mixed it per the ratios on the bottle using distilled water. I put that mix into one of those ubiquitous brown bottles that are nearly 1 liter. I take it I should do the normal Final Rinse using running tap water for ~10 minutes per instructions from Massive Dev Chart (MDC) and then dump the tank then fill with the wetting agent solution and... agitate for a minute? And then dump and hang the negative?

I've read good and bad about using a film squeegee to the point that I'm leaning away from using one. I've also ordered some Edwal Anti-Stat Film Clean which I assume is lightly applied with a soft cloth and wiped over the film after it's had a good long drying period. Feedback requested.

[Alex645]

I've read good and bad about using a film squeegee to the point that I'm leaning away from using one. I've also ordered some Edwal Anti-Stat Film Clean which I assume is lightly applied with a soft cloth and wiped over the film after it's had a good long drying period. Feedback requested.

Yes, a damaged or dirty squeegee can scratch your negs, although now that most fixers have hardeners, it's less problematic. Nevertheless, I always have a brand new squeegee as a back up if I find my film squeegee blades are in any way worn.

With care, I can't imagine not using some type of roller or squeegee to take excess water off the film before drying. A soft cloth that is not clean can also cause scratches and in some cases leave lint.