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03-11-2019, 05:58 AM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by savoche Quote
I found one on ebay a couple of days ago, and won it today as the only bidder (had forgotten all about it). It's a Panagor branded thing, but I'd think it's the same as the Elicar one. It was specified as having PK mount, but am not at all certain that it is. Time will show.

Now I'll have to find a suitable light source.
Good luck. I am looking forward to the better weather when I can get the sportscar out of the garage, pull out my tablesaw, and construct a more permanent rig for my slide copying design.

03-11-2019, 08:55 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by savoche Quote
'I found one on ebay a couple of days ago, and won it today as the only bidder (had forgotten all about it). It's a Panagor branded thing, but I'd think it's the same as the Elicar one. It was specified as having PK mount, but am not at all certain that it is.'
Yes, they're all much of a muchness: couple of tubes with some degree of zoom adjustment, a lens between them and a means of holding a mounted slide with a built-in diffuser over it. The beauty of such a thing - when the transparency is clipped in the end - is that shutter speed is immaterial; the whole lot moves together so no blurring. I had to get a t-mount to 42mm (got it originally for my Pentax MX) off eBay so I could fit it to my Canon EOS 5D via a Canon-to-M42 mount, but the mount is easy to change: three grub screws and that's it.

QuoteOriginally posted by savoche Quote
Now I'll have to find a suitable light source.
I use my mains-supplied traditionally-ballasted fluorescent tube light-box which is great - as long as the shutter speed stays below 1/50 sec, otherwise there's a heterodyne between the flicker rate of the tube and the shutter speed, consisting of a dark area that travels through the neg. I would use either an electronically-driven tube (works around 46kHz so flicker is immaterial) or an LED, which also has a high flicker.

Or just direct cloudy natural light onto it with mirrors!
03-11-2019, 10:00 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by Russell W. Barnes Quote
Yes, they're all much of a muchness: couple of tubes with some degree of zoom adjustment, a lens between them and a means of holding a mounted slide with a built-in diffuser over it. The beauty of such a thing - when the transparency is clipped in the end - is that shutter speed is immaterial; the whole lot moves together so no blurring. I had to get a t-mount to 42mm (got it originally for my Pentax MX) off eBay so I could fit it to my Canon EOS 5D via a Canon-to-M42 mount, but the mount is easy to change: three grub screws and that's it.



I use my mains-supplied traditionally-ballasted fluorescent tube light-box which is great - as long as the shutter speed stays below 1/50 sec, otherwise there's a heterodyne between the flicker rate of the tube and the shutter speed, consisting of a dark area that travels through the neg. I would use either an electronically-driven tube (works around 46kHz so flicker is immaterial) or an LED, which also has a high flicker.

Or just direct cloudy natural light onto it with mirrors!
Led lights often have very uneven spectrum. I'd suggest tungsten or daylight diffused light or fluorescent as you said. Just set WB appropriately.
03-11-2019, 03:47 PM   #49
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I haven't noticed any issues with the LED light I bought. It could do with being a bit better than 5600 but it's quite manageable in post processing.


Zecti 144leds Camera Video Light,4mm Super Slim,Ultra: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo

03-11-2019, 04:42 PM - 1 Like   #50
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A Guide to Using Consumer LED Bulbs for Photography and Video

More context. CRI numbers are poor for a lot of lights. Photo led lights are typically better.
03-12-2019, 02:34 AM - 1 Like   #51
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That's a good link, that: thanks. When I scan colour negs I tend to leave a little of the film rebate on so I can put the 'eye-dropper' tool on and set my white balance off it. I then get something reasonable to work with. But I also tend to be a little subjective with my images and perhaps make a slight adjustment to the colour temperature (Lightroom) if I feel the image is too 'cold' looking.

And the trouble is I really ought to have a monitor set up with a gamma spider or somesuch: my laptop with its limited display setup options isn't perhaps the best tool to make an objective judgement about the colour gamut of an image! I have the opportunity to see any pics I put on 'Flickr' (say) on different monitors, including the titchy one on my iPhone so I can see if what I end up with is too outlandish.
03-12-2019, 06:06 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by Russell W. Barnes Quote
And the trouble is I really ought to have a monitor set up with a gamma spider or somesuch: my laptop with its limited display setup options isn't perhaps the best tool to make an objective judgement about the colour gamut of an image!
FWIW, I recently bought a ColorMunki Smile and used it to calibrate my laptop and two desktop monitors. It's all automated. My laptop was slightly adjusted, but my desktop monitors were adjusted noticeably. Now my laser printed and retail prints are much closer to what I saw in post processing. It was well worth the $90.

03-14-2019, 06:10 AM   #53
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Just a final update on this. I've scanned a few hundred negs and slides now. For sure, the Scan Dual is sharper and more detailed than this macro method. I've had a chance to compare several older scans now. However, the macro method does well enough, such that if I'm printing at 4x6, the 4x6 prints are coming out better than the old machine prints, so I'm still ahead overall. The other way I'm ahead, is it takes me 15 mins to digitise a 36 roll film and then anything from a few minutes to an hour to process that in Lightroom, depending on how many I do and how well the original negs were exposed.

I'd still like to get my scanner working again but readin around the scsi to usb subject isn't filling me with confidence it can be done.
03-14-2019, 06:18 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by 3by2 Quote
Just a final update on this. I've scanned a few hundred negs and slides now. For sure, the Scan Dual is sharper and more detailed than this macro method. I've had a chance to compare several older scans now. However, the macro method does well enough, such that if I'm printing at 4x6, the 4x6 prints are coming out better than the old machine prints, so I'm still ahead overall. The other way I'm ahead, is it takes me 15 mins to digitise a 36 roll film and then anything from a few minutes to an hour to process that in Lightroom, depending on how many I do and how well the original negs were exposed.

I'd still like to get my scanner working again but readin around the scsi to usb subject isn't filling me with confidence it can be done.
I have an old Nikon scanner with a SCSI interface. I just went to an electronic recycling shop and purchased a SCSI to PCI card...USB not required
03-14-2019, 06:40 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by CharLac Quote
I have an old Nikon scanner with a SCSI interface. I just went to an electronic recycling shop and purchased a SCSI to PCI card...USB not required
I went to a small form factor pc, so I don't have a slot. I didn't think I'd resurrect the scanner at the time I did that because I'd not managed to get it to work under Windows 7 with the proper scsi card. That could be me though. I have to think what I want to do about it, if anything now.

In the meantime I have a load of wedding negs to scan and finally put into an album in time for our anniversary. Only 20 odd years late on that one!
03-14-2019, 07:11 AM - 1 Like   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by 3by2 Quote
I went to a small form factor pc, so I don't have a slot. I didn't think I'd resurrect the scanner at the time I did that because I'd not managed to get it to work under Windows 7 with the proper scsi card. That could be me though. I have to think what I want to do about it, if anything now.

In the meantime I have a load of wedding negs to scan and finally put into an album in time for our anniversary. Only 20 odd years late on that one!
Yeah, I ended up buying an Epson V600 for it's print scanning capabilities and never used the Nikon again; it does film quite nicely.
08-15-2019, 12:43 PM   #57
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I had a good slide scanner but ended up with a simpler setup :
Pentax Bellows II + 55/1.8 (50.4 Macro just arrived) + a LED light source

slide copier rig
The trick to me was getting the color balance correctly, which I did using a custom WB with just the light

This allows me to digitze a few tens in one go, and then process them in a few minutes
Some slides have faded over the years or the colors are off, so those take a lot of time to get right

Exposure is set to do bracketing +/- 1stop so that I can layer them and make a pseudo HDR if needed
05-16-2021, 03:43 PM   #58
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I'm tantalized by the Honeywell Repronar. Unfortunately, the Pentax film body seems to be integrated with the unit so that adapting to a digital body will require surgery.

– Stephen
05-16-2021, 06:53 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by rogerstg Quote
FWIW, I recently bought a ColorMunki Smile and used it to calibrate my laptop and two desktop monitors. It's all automated. My laptop was slightly adjusted, but my desktop monitors were adjusted noticeably. Now my laser printed and retail prints are much closer to what I saw in post processing. It was well worth the $90.

Had never heard of the ColorMunki, so had to go Google.
It’s on eBay for $80, Amazon has other versions and Mfg.
Some of the reviews are brutal, though.
Go to hear it works for you.


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