[beachgardener]

Then going to stand develop B&w later on in the day or on Sunday.

if you are new to this, my recommendation would be to get a handle on normal development of films first, and see what that looks like in terms of getting good results, then later if need be dabble in the stand development.
eg. do art to your images in the dark room or on the computer, not crazy chemistry to the film, develop properly so you have the best results to work from.

[TomB_tx]

if you are new to this, my recommendation would be to get a handle on normal development of films first, and see what that looks like in terms of getting good results, then later if need be dabble in the stand development.
eg. do art to your images in the dark room or on the computer, not crazy chemistry to the film, develop properly so you have the best results to work from.

I agree. Having processed my own film for over 50 years, I’ve never found a reason to try such things a stand development, as I always get the results I want from the mfgrs film / developer recommendations. I have used different developers for some film types, or to get more film speed, but I’ve stayed away from fads.

I also like to keep the film wet time short - I guess a carryover from time doing reportage work where minutes mattered. But it gives me good results.

[ChrisPlatt]

No need for color at home here. Mail order is fine for the occasional roll I shoot.

Black and white processing on the other hand is simple and cheap.
It's a fascinating world that I'm still exploring after 40+ years.

When first you start developing your own film there is a natural impulse to want to try every combination.
Suggest that until you get the hang of it you standardize on one or two films and one single developer.

Chris

[tuco]

For me, I would use 400TMY as my only one film. I can shoot it at EI800, 400, 100 and EI50. Shooting at these different exposure indexes is easier to do when you only have 8, 10 or 12 frames per roll because it won't be long before you're ready to load a new roll and the conditions may now call for a different EI.

[niels hansen]

I agree. Having processed my own film for over 50 years, I’ve never found a reason to try such things a stand development, as I always get the results I want from the mfgrs film / developer recommendations. I have used different developers for some film types, or to get more film speed, but I’ve stayed away from fads.

I also like to keep the film wet time short - I guess a carryover from time doing reportage work where minutes mattered. But it gives me good results.

I dont consider standing development as a fad. It has existed for many years in different variations. Ansel Adams experimented with semi standing .development. Most authors state that highly diluted developers gives maximum sharpness and has compensating effect. the last couple of days I have developed a very old Ilford Pan f plus. It was exposed as 50 ISO
The development was HC110 standard development 1 + 31,
HC 110 1:100 standing dev 20 degree celsius, shaking 1 min in the beginning and again 1 min after 30 min, total time 60 min.
Rodinal 1.100, standind development.
The results were: all had a minimum of grain, both standing films were equally sharp, but rodinal gave a slight loss of speed and less contrast, but not more than it can be compensated with a harder degree of paper.
The standard development gave slightly less sharpness, without being bad.
Rodinal was little disappointing, because it works extremely well with Rollei films.
It is true that this procedure is more time consuming, the advantage is that it is less affected to imperfections in shaking and temperature. Use the time for reading a paper, drinking coffee and so on.
It is important that the amount of developer is 6 ml, be aware that HC110 comes in different concentrations i Europe and USA. The above is the more concentrated europeen .
Whatever you choose: the best combination is the one you know the best.