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06-07-2019, 05:37 PM   #16
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I'm curious whether the software I use could invert a photo of a negative. What lens did you use? I was thinking that the 100mm macro or 35mm macro might work.

06-11-2019, 11:41 PM - 1 Like   #17
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I use 100 mm macro

Before I used an old M-100mm F4 macro with an extension tube. Works fine with very nice results, manual focussing full open, stop it down to F8-F11 for the best results. Now I own the DFA 100 mm F2.8 macro with manual focussing. Because it is one stop wider the manual focussing goes more precise. Both lenses are more than sufficient for sharpness, they both out resolve your film.


I think 100 mm is to prefer over 35 mm from point of view for the more lineair perspective and shallow DOF. On the front top of the LED light bulb there is a little manufacturing rub that I removed with fine sand paper to achieve as equal possible light source. I kept some cm's distance between the bulb and the film so the uneveness of the bulb disapears in the shallow DOF. With a shorter focus length this might be more difficult to do.
3 Days Ago   #18
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Haartelijk bedankt!
Great article, I do more or less the same; but keep the slide to camera space in the dark to eliminate another variable
LED illumination has improved this method so much, I had a GEPE light table earlier but it is dying, that keps the backlight constant both for color and exposure

Using my KX I get 4288x2848 pixels, which is ~3,000 dpi and in theory much better than the 2400dpi scanner I had before (It had a SCSI connection; so it became obsolete when my old desktop gave up)

Results are very interesting but yes the color management is very complex especially with negatives which tend to degrade over the years
Slides are somehow better but they also fade

Last edited by titrisol; 3 Days Ago at 12:58 PM.
7 Hours Ago   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Henrico Quote
Thnx for your replies. The road from shooting a analogue picture on film to a scanned view on your monitor is very interesting. First of all, I'm not an expert..., and I think the color management is very complex here.
Seems to me you're an expert in the process you clearly outlined along with examples. Well done!

About how long to process a frame?
Does each frame within a roll require tweaking or do you apply the same settings for the whole roll?

BTW, what negatives did you apply your process on or was it a good variety of different ones (i.e. Agfa Ultra 100, Agfa Vista, Fuji 100, Fuji Reala, Kodak Gold 100, Kodak Portra 160, etc.)?

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