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04-30-2020, 09:27 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Vendee Quote
Regarding the longevity of Rodinal, the original formula may have lasted forever but in my own experience, some of the newer incarnations do not.

Rodinal gone bad - PentaxForums.com
When a bottle of Rodinal can last years, and many people are buying it for that reason, the manufacturer obviously has small sales. To resolve that they can't change the formula to make it more disposable (the 'Rodinal' label can not be used any more), so a sneaky solution could be to change the bottle to allow faster oxidation. What you can do though, when the type of bottle is indeed the culprit, is to decant it in a (dark) glass bottle after purchase, and see what happens with it.

Edit: I see now this solution is also mentioned briefly in the linked thread.


Last edited by Kobayashi.K; 04-30-2020 at 09:48 AM.
04-30-2020, 10:45 AM   #17
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I use Legacy Pro L110 film developer most of the time. It is a HC110 clone but was easier to measure when HC110 was so viscous. The developer concentrate is supplied in a 16 oz plastic bottle which I find convenient. For small tank (up to 2 120 or 4 35mm) I use dilution B (1-31 dilution) large tank (4 120 or 8 35mm) I dilute 1-100 and stand develop for 45 to 60 minutes. My large stainless steel tank I mix 18 ml concentrate with 1782 ml distilled water which makes for very reasonable price for film develop cost. That is over 200 rolls 35mm -36 rolls for approx $21.00 including shipping.

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04-30-2020, 11:39 AM   #18
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Caffenol can be made 'just in time' and directly used, so that would eliminate the storage problem. Isn't there a version that delivers fine grain?
04-30-2020, 12:29 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
Hi everyone,

Until now I have always developed my B&W films with Ilfosol 3 and have been very happy with the results. The problem with it is storage - I sometimes go a long time between development sessions and the developer goes off. The bottle recommends using within one year of purchase, even if it's unopened.

So I want to look at using something else which will get me similar results but keep better. It has to be something I can easily get, keeps well, if a powder then able to mix small amounts to avoid long-term storage of solution, not too expensive., and be good for general use - suitable for films from 25 ISO up to 400 pushed to 1600, or the 3200 options at 1600, even if not necessarily the very best for those options.

Until now I've always bought in a shop here in Madrid but am willing to buy online within Spain, especially now. I have used this website (FOTO-R3 | Spain's full-source analog photo supplier) for films and they seem good, with developer options from Foma, Ilford, Kodak, Rollei, Tetenal and others. However, I have a few questions I'm hoping that knowledgeable people here can help me with.

From the options there are a few I've come across in forums and social media which might be good.

* Kodak T-Max
* Rodinal / R09 one shot
* Foma Fomadon R09
* Argenti Concertol

There are two products claiming to be Rodinal. One is marked as "R09 one shot" and the other just states "Rodinal". Neither seems to show a brand or manufacturer but one is available in 120ml and 500ml bottles, the other only 500ml. Fomadon also claims to be equivalent to Rodinal, not sure if that means it's the same but they don't have the rights to use the name or if it's actually a different formula.

Any feedback gratefully received.
I used Kodak HC-110 for years as my standard developer. The stuff is like syrup, and has a shelf life of decades.

04-30-2020, 11:26 PM   #20
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If you can get Metol and Sodium Sulfite, you can mix your own D-23 one-shot. Development times are very close to D-76. HC-110 can be mixed in very small quantities to be considered single shot. Store the stock solution in multiple, smaller bottles to keep air to a minimum and it should keep.
05-01-2020, 12:16 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
If you can get Metol and Sodium Sulfite, you can mix your own D-23 one-shot. Development times are very close to D-76. HC-110 can be mixed in very small quantities to be considered single shot. Store the stock solution in multiple, smaller bottles to keep air to a minimum and it should keep.
Add hydroquinone and borax to that and you can mix D-76 too!
05-01-2020, 02:02 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by StiffLegged Quote
Add hydroquinone and borax to that and you can mix D-76 too!
You can omit the hydroquinone to make D76-ECO version. There are 4 things a BW developer must perform to develop film and most developers have 4 or more chemicals to address those issues. But D-23 does all that with just two chemicals that I can get at a photography store.
05-06-2020, 12:42 AM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kobayashi.K Quote
Caffenol can be made 'just in time' and directly used, so that would eliminate the storage problem. Isn't there a version that delivers fine grain?
Caffenol CLCS gives finest grain.



05-06-2020, 02:30 AM   #24
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I've ordered a bottle of R09 but the talk of porous bottles is disheartening. Not sure where I'll be able to get a suitable glass bottle that won't have to be thoroughly cleaned before decanting developer into it.

I have an unopened bottle of Ilfosol to get through first but I've such a large backlog of B&W processing that I imagine I'll get through the whole bottle once I find the time to do it.
05-06-2020, 05:11 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
Caffenol CLCS gives finest grain.
Thanks @fs999. Yes this version is even more diluted than all the others. As a side note, when I see that I wonder why people are inventing another version with an exotic name instead of simply diluting the CL 1+1 or more.

I also shoot a limited number of rolls a year, so I'm also interested in longevity. Good luck Jonathan with the Rodinal, keep us informed.

Personally I'm going the Caffenol route first with -CL to see how it compares to Perceptol (on FP4+). An advantage of Caffenol is also that you can pour it down the drain.

BTW Kodak recently changed the formula of HC-110, so that could potentially change its long shelf life. Perhaps they have taken a leaf out of Tetenal's book.

Last edited by Kobayashi.K; 05-06-2020 at 05:35 AM.
05-06-2020, 10:03 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I've ordered a bottle of R09 but the talk of porous bottles is disheartening. Not sure where I'll be able to get a suitable glass bottle that won't have to be thoroughly cleaned before decanting developer into it.
Glass bottles are not porous. What may cause problems is exposure to light and/or oxidation from air in the headspace of the bottle. You can purchase suitable bottles online. The style is called "Boston brown" and various sizes are available. The brown color takes care of most of the light exposure problem. You can address the headspace issue by displacing the residual air with a compressed gas product such as Dust Off each time developer is added or removed from the bottle.


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05-06-2020, 12:11 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Glass bottles are not porous. What may cause problems is exposure to light and/or oxidation from air in the headspace of the bottle. You can purchase suitable bottles online. The style is called "Boston brown" and various sizes are available. The brown color takes care of most of the light exposure problem. You can address the headspace issue by displacing the residual air with a compressed gas product such as Dust Off each time developer is added or removed from the bottle.
Brown colored glass is also called Amber Glass and it completely blocks UV light and is ideal for storage, especially if not kept in a completely dark place.
Photographers' Formulary Amber Glass Bottle with Narrow 50-0500

If the bottle has a fat or wide neck or mouth, another solution to reduce air in the bottle is to use glass marbles.

I've also used accordion style collapsible bottles: B&H EDU Advantage | Discount Program for Students & Teachers | B&H

Or for larger quantities with paper chems for trays, a container with a floating lid.

Doran Plastic Storage Tank (2 Gallon) with Floating Lid B&H
05-08-2020, 07:39 AM   #28
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I use glass marbles now with Ilfosol and have done since the beginning, so i don't know if it helps or not but I'd imagine so. It stains the marbles yellow though it doesn't seem to have any negative effects. I would be worried about using glass marbles in a glass bottle though due to the possibility of breakage.
05-08-2020, 02:51 PM   #29
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This company has a nice selection of bottles, many appropriate for darkroom use.
Prices and shipping are quite reasonable. I have ordered from them several times.

https://www.specialtybottle.com/glass-bottles/amber-boston-rounds/larger-sizes

Chris
05-10-2020, 09:03 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
This company has a nice selection of bottles, many appropriate for darkroom use.
Prices and shipping are quite reasonable. I have ordered from them several times.

https://www.specialtybottle.com/glass-bottles/amber-boston-rounds/larger-sizes

Chris
I have used them as well. Good vendor.


Steve
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