[Vendee]

My Phillips PCS150 enlarger is a tri colour design and I can dial in contrast adjustment without the use of filters which is great but if you want to make split grade prints, it means altering the setting on each of the lamps. The dials don't have the best illumination under safelight so its quite awkward.

Luckily I have the option of using the "above lens" filter tray with Ilford sheet filters or use their below lens system. I'm thinking that, just like when taking photos, anything placed after the lens will degrade image quality to some extent and that the above lens filter is the best option. Am I right in thinking this or is it not that critical?

[Bob 256]

That's correct. If you have optical quality filters (like those used on camera lenses), they can be used below the enlarger lens with little degradation but your sheet filters are acetate or the like and need to be used between the lens and light source. You might want to get a small red LED light which you can place next to your dial-in adjustments so you can see them. A deep red LED is safe for most all B&W enlarging media though you still want to keep exposure to the red light to a minimum. Of course, a red LED will not be suitable if you use any color printing material.

[Vendee]

That's correct. If you have optical quality filters (like those used on camera lenses), they can be used below the enlarger lens with little degradation but your sheet filters are acetate or the like and need to be used between the lens and light source. You might want to get a small red LED light which you can place next to your dial-in adjustments so you can see them. A deep red LED is safe for most all B&W enlarging media though you still want to keep exposure to the red light to a minimum. Of course, a red LED will not be suitable if you use any color printing material.

That's a good idea Bob. A red LED lamp would be cheaper than a set of filters. I need the 6"x6" ones for the size of my filter tray and they are rather expensive. I can always shield the control panel and LED torch from the enlarger itself to keep things safer. I only do b&w anyway.

[tuco]

Yeah, I have some Kodak Polycontrast II filter sheets 150mm square that are similar to the Ilford and the instructions sheet says for use above the enlarging lens.

[Vendee]

I'm sure there are some enlargers without a filter tray above the lens so the filters which use the lens mounted adaptors are the only option. I had a load of these filters which I picked up free of charge when buying darkroom equipment years ago. They looked a bit dirty and I made the mistake of cleaning them under some running water and watched in horror as the colours ran off.

[tuco]

My wet printing has been off line for a long time now. I'm going to get it back online when I eventually move to a new house. My 4x5 enlarger had a tray for filters between the light and the condenser lenses. But I put a cold light in it and now filters have to be below the lens. I used fixed grade papers with it. My 6x7 enlarger has a color head and to be able to dial in the contrast filter is a nice feature.

If your enlarger lamp is off when you set the new contrast settings in this split tone process, you could just cover the easel/print up with a dark cloth while you look at the dials with the supplemental red light if you're worried about light spill on the print.

[Alex645]

My Phillips PCS150 enlarger is a tri colour design and I can dial in contrast adjustment without the use of filters which is great but if you want to make split grade prints, it means altering the setting on each of the lamps.

Luckily I have the option of using the "above lens" filter tray with Ilford sheet filters or use their below lens system. I'm thinking that, just like when taking photos, anything placed after the lens will degrade image quality to some extent and that the above lens filter is the best option. Am I right in thinking this or is it not that critical?

The holder below the lens is not intended for polycontrast/multigrade filters. It was designed for a safelight filter.

I agree with others that the ideal solution is just having a portable safelight near your dials and to use the enlarger as intended. Using the filter tray 'above the lens' is fine, but unless the dichroic filters are damaged or faded, not using the tri-lamp system is counter intuitive for paying for the cost and maintenance of three lamps instead of one but treating the enlarger as if it had a single light source.

[Vendee]

The holder below the lens is not intended for polycontrast/multigrade filters. It was designed for a safelight filter.

I was talking about the holder which comes with the Ilford filter kit and attaches to the lens. Ilford Multigrade Filter Set, 8.9cm, Below Lens - Black and White Darkroom Paper - Firstcall Photographic Ltd

[Alex645]

I was talking about the holder which comes with the Ilford filter kit and attaches to the lens. Ilford Multigrade Filter Set, 8.9cm, Below Lens - Black and White Darkroom Paper - Firstcall Photographic Ltd

Got it. Well it works, but if you want optimal sharpness, it will be compromised and I would only use it if your ability to adjust the dichroics in the head are kaput. But no harm in running a comparison test on your own as the difference may not be significant to you and the process of split grade prints easier.

[Vendee]

Got it. Well it works, but if you want optimal sharpness, it will be compromised and I would only use it if your ability to adjust the dichroics in the head are kaput. But no harm in running a comparison test on your own as the difference may not be significant to you and the process of split grade prints easier.

The dichroics on the control panel work fine but are just a bit fiddly to change settings in the dark. I'll probably try Bob's tip about using a red LED source above the dials and see how that goes.

[Alex645]

The dichroics on the control panel work fine but are just a bit fiddly to change settings in the dark. I'll probably try Bob's tip about using a red LED source above the dials and see how that goes.

Until the demise of Cibachrome/Ilfochrome P30, I ran a school darkroom that had two color rooms with the Philips PCS-150. With color paper you can't use a safelight, and thus those controllers are very, very dim to prevent light pollution. Too bad they didn't think of a B&W mode that would boost the dial illumination level.

In my opinion an amber Yankee safelight would do the trick for around $25:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63613-REG/Yankee_YASL3_Darkroom_Safel...981&

[Vendee]

Until the demise of Cibachrome/Ilfochrome P30, I ran a school darkroom that had two color rooms with the Philips PCS-150. With color paper you can't use a safelight, and thus those controllers are very, very dim to prevent light pollution. Too bad they didn't think of a B&W mode that would boost the dial illumination level.

In my opinion an amber Yankee safelight would do the trick for around $25:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63613-REG/Yankee_YASL3_Darkroom_Safel...981&

Thanks for that.

[Derek]

I find it's sometimes handy to keep a small pocket flashlight in the darkroom. I put a little disc of rubylith over the lens. It would help with your controller dials, and it's great when you drop something and it rolls under the counter.

[Vendee]

I find it's sometimes handy to keep a small pocket flashlight in the darkroom. I put a little disc of rubylith over the lens. It would help with your controller dials, and it's great when you drop something and it rolls under the counter.

To be honest, its going to be cheaper buying a red LED light than it is to buy some film. Thanks anyway.

[ChrisPlatt]

In my opinion an amber Yankee safelight would do the trick for around $25:

Here's two Premier 5x7" safelights with OC (amber) filters for $25 in The PF Marketplace:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/422918-sale-safe-lights.html

Chris