Scanning Methods ?

**fs999** · 08-25-2021, 12:27 AM - **1 Like**

There is also an experimental module for Darktable.
Silkypix has a tool.
FilmLab do that too.
There is also a plugin for photoshop NegMaster.

Lhorn · 08-25-2021, 09:41 AM

Excellent food for thought. I was actually thinking of posting a similar question so to keep from adding a redundant thread and to promote further discussion I’ll jump on here if that’s ok.
I’ve been scanning with Epson V500 and have largely been pleased with my results at least for 35mm (not real pleased with 16 mm however).

I’ve got a LUMIX GH3 (mft of course) that I think should be good enough (16 mp I think). Was thinking of using my M50mm/f4 lens +\- extension tubes as needed vs Tamron adaptall 60-300 lens which does mighty fine “macro.”

I like the idea of a copy stand but wanted to do this on the cheap and not have some bulky apparatus to store. I was thinking of creating a stand which would hold the negative holder upright and just move the camera on the table or put books under it to get the height right. I was going to use an old manual flash with adjustable output for the light source (but would not be against using an iPad or buying a dedicated light source if it worked out well).

I had not put much thought into how I would process the images. Since it seems like a lot of people are doing this I had just assumed there was a free app that converted the negative images and I’d use my old copy of LR5 to process the images. But perhaps it’s not quite that easy.

I wanted to do this as a sort of experiment to see if it was better (faster, better quality) than the v500.

Any insights on the above are welcome. Thanks .

LesDMess · 09-25-2021, 10:05 AM

Originally posted by PenPusher

My Epson 3170 from way back is on its last legs.

It seems to me that there are now 2 ways to scan, I suppose really digitise, both negatives (mostly discovered 6 x 9cm from long ago) and prints:

A - Buy a new scanner of which the best specified and affordable I can find is the Epson V600 @ around €330, the v850 is obviously better but at least 3 times the price.

B - Use my Pentax (K-70) with a macro lens mounted on my old enlarger column and a light table for negatives and a bit of studio lighting for prints. I have a light table and some studio lighting. I have an 50mm M F4.0 lens.

The question I have is does one have a particular technical advantage over another, ignore the cash saving of the Pentax system.

Kind regards

CD

If you use true b&w then DSLR scanning is a probably a better choice as scans can be very fast with the right setup, ICE (dust and scratch removal) doesn't work with b&w and post work is very simple.
If you use slides then post work is just as simple as b&w, scans are faster but now the lack of ICE can add time in post work.
But since you say you are going to use it for color negatives then be prepared to add considerable time in post work and even more if you need ICE. There are many vids on youtube about this as well as some here who have gotten really good results.

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08-25-2021, 12:27 AM - 1 Like	#16
fs999 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Luxembourg Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,639	There is also an experimental module for Darktable. Silkypix has a tool. FilmLab do that too. There is also a plugin for photoshop NegMaster.

08-25-2021, 09:41 AM	#17
Lhorn Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Posts: 554	Excellent food for thought. I was actually thinking of posting a similar question so to keep from adding a redundant thread and to promote further discussion I’ll jump on here if that’s ok. I’ve been scanning with Epson V500 and have largely been pleased with my results at least for 35mm (not real pleased with 16 mm however). I’ve got a LUMIX GH3 (mft of course) that I think should be good enough (16 mp I think). Was thinking of using my M50mm/f4 lens +\- extension tubes as needed vs Tamron adaptall 60-300 lens which does mighty fine “macro.” I like the idea of a copy stand but wanted to do this on the cheap and not have some bulky apparatus to store. I was thinking of creating a stand which would hold the negative holder upright and just move the camera on the table or put books under it to get the height right. I was going to use an old manual flash with adjustable output for the light source (but would not be against using an iPad or buying a dedicated light source if it worked out well). I had not put much thought into how I would process the images. Since it seems like a lot of people are doing this I had just assumed there was a free app that converted the negative images and I’d use my old copy of LR5 to process the images. But perhaps it’s not quite that easy. I wanted to do this as a sort of experiment to see if it was better (faster, better quality) than the v500. Any insights on the above are welcome. Thanks .

09-25-2021, 10:05 AM	#18
LesDMess Pentaxian Join Date: May 2011 Location: Santa Cruz, CA Photos: Albums Posts: 3,235	Originally posted by PenPusher My Epson 3170 from way back is on its last legs. It seems to me that there are now 2 ways to scan, I suppose really digitise, both negatives (mostly discovered 6 x 9cm from long ago) and prints: A - Buy a new scanner of which the best specified and affordable I can find is the Epson V600 @ around €330, the v850 is obviously better but at least 3 times the price. B - Use my Pentax (K-70) with a macro lens mounted on my old enlarger column and a light table for negatives and a bit of studio lighting for prints. I have a light table and some studio lighting. I have an 50mm M F4.0 lens. The question I have is does one have a particular technical advantage over another, ignore the cash saving of the Pentax system. Kind regards CD If you use true b&w then DSLR scanning is a probably a better choice as scans can be very fast with the right setup, ICE (dust and scratch removal) doesn't work with b&w and post work is very simple. If you use slides then post work is just as simple as b&w, scans are faster but now the lack of ICE can add time in post work. But since you say you are going to use it for color negatives then be prepared to add considerable time in post work and even more if you need ICE. There are many vids on youtube about this as well as some here who have gotten really good results.