[BigMackCam]

When I had a wet darkroom I always used running water to wash the film. I now live in an apartment where I cannot trust the water to be at a constant temperature. I process my film now using water at ambient temperature. I have two 5, maybe 10, gallon jugs in which I keep the water I use for film processing. For washing I do 6 successive water rinses, one minute each with constant agitation, followed with a wetting agent rinse. I discussed this with Ilford years ago. Here is a technical release of theirs:

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Reducing-Wash-Water.pdf

+1 That Ilford doc is a good one. I've used their film washing method for years (with a bit extra added just to be sure the films are squeaky-clean ) and never had a problem. Saves a ton of water and, as Charles noted, you're assured that the water is a consistent temp throughout.

Thanks, both. I've just read that document and the washing method is perfect for me. Very little water used, I can get it to room temperature in advance, and a very straightforward method. I like the idea of perhaps one additional wash with 20 inversions before the final wash + wetting... It certainly can't harm

[Viking42]

I like the idea of perhaps one additional wash with 20 inversions before the final wash + wetting... It certainly can't harm

Yup, as my Italian-American friends would say, "It cain't hoit"

[fs999]

We have arranged to do a shoot at a 150yo coffee importer and roastary. We will be shooting on a Leica iii and a Bronica and developing in Baristanol (like caffenol but you use better coffee ). The coffee will be coming from the roaster themselves. We will be using a lightly roasted African bean that is high in acid. Proportion wise, its about 90g of beans per film. Basically it is getting a ten shot espresso that should open its eyes!

Brainless...

[tuco]

Data point is fine for what you mention; Rodinal isn't one of them, so an acetic acid stop bath applies.

So all my acid free Rodnial devloped film is not not developed well? I have a densitometer. I measure my negatives with it to verify my development time is correct for my diffusion enlarger. I know quantitatively if my negatives are developed well and therefore no hand waving or guessing if I have a good development time.


X-Rite 301 by tuco, on Flickr

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Last edited by tuco; 10-04-2021 at 02:23 PM.

[niels hansen]

BIG MAC
I dont know which cameras you will use. From my own experience and talks with very competente members of the danish photohistorical society. The electronic controlled shutters in older cameras are not as reliable as mecanical. the best ones are the copal square and praktica metal shutters, but a wellkept fabric shutter in K 1000 and others are ok.
There might be a problem with batteries for the built in exposure meters, but # one meter in the hand might be better than ten on the camera#. A good solution is to use a dslr as exposuremeter, look at the histogram, mostly it is good that it is close to the right. For me it is better than my spot meter.
There is no universally useable BW film. You will need at least 2 ,but better 3 camerahouses with slow medium and fast films. This equipment is heavy,but you cant run a maraton without beeing tired
If I had to be restricted to only one camera it would be Mamiya ttl with 3 optics, with a single optic Rolleiflex or derivates from this

[BigMackCam]

BIG MAC
I dont know which cameras you will use. From my own experience and talks with very competente members of the danish photohistorical society. The electronic controlled shutters in older cameras are not as reliable as mecanical. the best ones are the copal square and praktica metal shutters, but a wellkept fabric shutter in K 1000 and others are ok.
There might be a problem with batteries for the built in exposure meters, but # one meter in the hand might be better than ten on the camera#. A good solution is to use a dslr as exposuremeter, look at the histogram, mostly it is good that it is close to the right. For me it is better than my spot meter.
There is no universally useable BW film. You will need at least 2 ,but better 3 camerahouses with slow medium and fast films. This equipment is heavy,but you cant run a maraton without beeing tired
If I had to be restricted to only one camera it would be Mamiya ttl with 3 optics, with a single optic Rolleiflex or derivates from this

Thanks, Niels.

I'm going to be using a variety of different cameras - from those with single shutter speed and aperture or just a few limited choices, to fully compacts and SLRs with full control over exposure. My main interest is in shooting my recently-acquired Agfa Isola II, a little Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim, and a few of my mass-market Soviet cameras - the Smena 8M, Lomo Vilia, and possibly a Lubitel 166+... Not everyone's cup of tea, I realise I also have some SLRs, including a fully-serviced Pentax ME Super, and I'm sure I'll get round to using those too.

As for metering... I have a very good incident light meter app on my Android phone. Early experiments - using my K-3 in a variety of lighting conditions - have shown it to be pretty darned accurate and reliable, so I'll be using that when needed. As I see it, it's providing an easier and faster to use equivalent of the old analogue light meters, and in that sense I'm happy to use it. I'd rather not rely on DSLR histograms, as for me it would reduce the authenticity of the shooting experience. I'm not looking for (and certainly not expecting) perfect exposure from every shot I take, but rather to enjoy (or be frustrated by ) photography in the same way folks using these same cameras would have been, way back when

[Russell W. Barnes]

Yeh I've scratched my negatives with my squeegee for sure.

I use one run of two fingers down the strip of negs and leave them after that. So far, so good... I hang my negs on the shower door-bar and run the shower for the minute whilst my rinse-aid is doing its stuff in the tank, to get some steam up. I haven't a darkroom (I use a changing bag) so to minimise dust when drying I turn the bathroom fan off and remove all towels as it's surprising what bits of fluff, threads, etc... can land on a wet neg.

Fortunately, we have another bathroom that people can use as a bathroom when I'm developing!

[BigMackCam]

I use one run of two fingers down the strip of negs and leave them after that. So far, so good... I hang my negs on the shower door-bar and run the shower for the minute whilst my rinse-aid is doing its stuff in the tank, to get some steam up. I haven't a darkroom (I use a changing bag) so to minimise dust when drying I turn the bathroom fan off and remove all towels as it's surprising what bits of fluff, threads, etc... can land on a wet neg.

Fortunately, we have another bathroom that people can use as a bathroom when I'm developing!

I'll be using one my bathrooms for hanging and drying too, Russell Good tip re the towels - thank you!

[Russell W. Barnes]

I selected HC-110 for my developer and got a bunch of pipettes on Amazon to use for measuring it out into a beaker. Using it basically as one-shot in dilution B, but I did have two rolls of 35mm and a roll of 120 all to do last weekend, so I did do them all with one batch of dilution B without incident. (Had to do three runs as the 35mm were Foma 200 and Foma 400 and my tank isn’t big enough to put in 120 and 35mm at the same time.) FYI, the data sheets for Foma 200/Arista EDU 200 say “NR” for HC-110, but I went by the massive dev chart and had no issues.

I use HC-110 sometimes (when I've run out of ID-11 and don't want to use Rodinal) but I use a variation of Dilution E that gives 1+50 ratio. Because the development time is linear it's easy to increase this accordingly, and 1+50 is easier and more consistent to measure out (12ml of goo for 600ml water or 7ml goo for 350ml of water for 120 and 35mm respectively) using the old syringes I got from my farmer bro-in-law for administering drugs to sheep.

Last night I got away with putting two 120 films on the same spool (phew! ) but it's essential you make sure the first film is absolutely and positively at the end of the spool and can't go any further. I've cocked this up a few times losing a couple of frames through inadvertent overlap so I wouldn't do it if I'd anything substantial to lose. This is a Paterson reel, BTW.

[Kombivan]

Although I'll soon be all set for scanning lab-developed 135 and 120 film, I'm slowly preparing for the day where I'll try my hand at developing B&W film myself (hopefully before the year is out). As such, I've been looking at different chemicals with a view to achieving the look I think I want in the most economical manner.

Initially I'll be shooting Fomapan 200 Creative, but expect to try some of the Ilford films too. Since I don't expect to be shooting and developing large amounts of film (perhaps one or two films a month), I'd rather not store quantities of prepared chemicals for later (or re-) use. I'm therefore leaning towards one-shot diluted concentrate developers, and prefer the look of high-acutance over fine grain. I live in a soft water area, and would be using a Paterson Super System 4 tank or similar, with chemicals and water acclimatised to room temperature of around 21C / 70F. I'd like to keep the process as simple and foolproof as possible, and prefer the idea of liquid rather than powder chemicals for easier mixing.

From the research I've done thus far, this is what I've come up with:

Developer: Agfa Rodinal Compard R09 (or similar) @ 1+20 or possibly 1+50
Stop-bath: Soft tap water (six washes and dumps)
Fixer: Ilford Rapid Fixer @ 1+4
Wash: Soft tap water (six washes and dumps, Adox AdoFlo II wetting agent added on last wash)

... followed by squeegee before drying.

Again, I'm in a soft water area and have no problem with mineral deposits in appliances or on kitchen work surfaces. I've read that while distilled water is recommended for the final wash, soft water works OK, especially when a good wetting agent is added.

I'd greatly appreciate any critique and feedback on the above - things I may have mis-understood or missed, recommendations for better and/or more economical products or approach, etc.

Many thanks in advance

You can just put a clean fish tub out in the rain when its raining and you get naturally distilled water. Best money can't buy.

[Denver]

Every developer gives its unique tone and grain to your black and white film. It comes down to what you are striving for in your negatives. I have used a Yankee tank for 50 plus years without an issue whether 35 or 120. I have also used Diafine as my developer for as long. Gives me the results I want and is foolproof.

[John Shriver]

One warning on Ilford's "changes of water" washing method. It ONLY works safely with a non-hardening fixer. You will be badly under-washed if you use a hardening fixer (say Kodak Kodafix).

Finding a used Wat-Air film washer can save a lot of wash water.

[Viking42]

One warning on Ilford's "changes of water" washing method. It ONLY works safely with a non-hardening fixer. You will be badly under-washed if you use a hardening fixer (say Kodak Kodafix).

Finding a used Wat-Air film washer can save a lot of wash water.

+1 Great point John. I think Mike should be in good shape though, as he's using Ilford Rapid Fix which is non-hardening. I use the same stuff, and the Ilford wash works great.

[ChrisPlatt]

Most folks start out with Kodak D-76 or Ilford ID-11 film developer.

Water is usually fine as a stop bath.

Most films are fine with a non-hardening fixer. Most users prefer rapid type fixers.

A washing aid will save a lot of rinse water.

A final dunk in a wetting agent solution will help your film dry without water spots.

Chris

[niels hansen]

Thanks, Niels.

I'm going to be using a variety of different cameras - from those with single shutter speed and aperture or just a few limited choices, to fully compacts and SLRs with full control over exposure. My main interest is in shooting my recently-acquired Agfa Isola II, a little Vivitar Ultra Wide and Slim, and a few of my mass-market Soviet cameras - the Smena 8M, Lomo Vilia, and possibly a Lubitel 166+... Not everyone's cup of tea, I realise I also have some SLRs, including a fully-serviced Pentax ME Super, and I'm sure I'll get round to using those too.

As for metering... I have a very good incident light meter app on my Android phone. Early experiments - using my K-3 in a variety of lighting conditions - have shown it to be pretty darned accurate and reliable, so I'll be using that when needed. As I see it, it's providing an easier and faster to use equivalent of the old analogue light meters, and in that sense I'm happy to use it. I'd rather not rely on DSLR histograms, as for me it would reduce the authenticity of the shooting experience. I'm not looking for (and certainly not expecting) perfect exposure from every shot I take, but rather to enjoy (or be frustrated by ) photography in the same way folks using these same cameras would have been, way back when

I researched a little on the net about your russian 35 mm cameras. They make stunning pictures, they show how good triplets are. I remember my lost in the water voigtlaender with Lantar objctive, on the same level as the more expensive apotars, takumars etc. Maybe it is logical, the fewer elements, the fewer possibilities og assemblements errors. Think about all the decentering problems with current optics. The Isola is great camera, it has not the leakage problems as some of the folding variants