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12-01-2021, 10:44 PM   #16
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The one major downside of stand developing is the chances of "Bromide drag" happening and affecting your film.

12-02-2021, 02:29 AM   #17
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I only use full stand with Caffenol if possible. I used Rodinal before Caffenol. Full stand is absolutely not overrated,
It brings more details in the shadows and less apparent grain, especially in my cold start version starting at 15°C/59°F and bring up to 20°C/68°F.
The fact is that the developer is so diluted that it exhaust very rapidly on exposed parts and exhaust slower on less exposed parts.
Against bromide drags and fogging I use Kbr (Potassium Bromide).
12-02-2021, 04:09 AM   #18
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Thanks for all your input thus far, folks - very much appreciated, as always

I'd love to try stand development, but given the feedback and the nagging doubt in my mind that I'm trying to run before I've even figured out walking, I'm going to stick to regular development for now and aim to get the best from my negatives with that approach (per the links @Viking42 provided - thanks, Svend ).

When I get round to shooting the HP5+ I have in the freezer (which may not be for some time), I might use that as an opportunity to try semi-stand development with my existing Rodinal, rather than using a different developer more suited to that film for regular development. Since my original post, I've read that HP5+ and Rodinal play well (or at least "better") when using semi-stand development, and the low-bromide chemistry - especially at 1+100 dilution - is such that so-called "bromide drag" is, apparently, unlikely. Plus, I think I prefer the idea of trying different development methods with the same developer over the same method with different developers.

Thanks again for the feedback, folks

Last edited by BigMackCam; 12-02-2021 at 04:57 AM.
12-02-2021, 05:44 AM   #19
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I keep thinking I need to look into stand development for the Tri-X and other 400 speed films that I shoot at 1600 in low light but so far I haven't done so. I am a data-driven person and I like the predictability of numbers in times, temperatures and concentrations from "official" sources.

12-02-2021, 12:13 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Viking42 Quote
before trying new methods or materials, it would be highly valuable for you to learn what a properly exposed and well developed actually looks like on your light table. That way you can objectively evaluate what happens when you make a major change, and whether it was actually an improvement or otherwise.

Here are a couple of places to start:
http://www.aregeebee.net/negs/eneg.htm
What does a Good Film Negative Look Like? ? Belinda Jiao Photography
Those links make excellent reading for someone like me just starting out, Svend. I particularly like the first one, even though it's aimed at those intending to print. I'm going to keep a copy of that page in the front of my negatives folder for reference, until I know this stuff and can recognise the effects...
12-02-2021, 01:21 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
TBeing a fan of stainless steel reels and tanks, I consider knowing how to thread film onto those as worth knowing as well...Hewes reels are strongly recommended! The only time I use my AP tanks is with doing stand or semi stand off label high dilutions of HC110 where volumes can be pretty high.
Steve - is there a practical reason why you prefer the steel reels and tanks, or do you just enjoy using them more? As I understand it, Hewes reels are available to fit Paterson tanks - which means they should fit my AP tank too (since AP reels also fit Paterson). I won't be buying some any time soon, but I'd be interested to know if you think it's a worthwhile upgrade and why...

Last edited by BigMackCam; 12-02-2021 at 01:49 PM.
12-02-2021, 02:50 PM - 1 Like   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Those links make excellent reading for someone like me just starting out, Svend. I particularly like the first one, even though it's aimed at those intending to print. I'm going to keep a copy of that page in the front of my negatives folder for reference, until I know this stuff and can recognise the effects...
Sounds good Mike. With scanning you have a bit more leeway on lower contrast, so keep that in mind when you're scrutinizing your negs. I.e. a bit lower can be better, as long as the full tonal range is being captured by your scanner.....depends on your machine, whether flatbed, dslr, or whatever. Time and experience will teach you what works best for your equipment and method.

Personally, I use a decent flatbed (Canon 9950F) for 120 film, and dslr for 35mm, and both respond well to really gutsy negs with a full range of tones, so I don't have to worry about reducing contrast. Your scanning kit may give you different results. Enjoy the process!

12-02-2021, 04:22 PM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Steve - is there a practical reason why you prefer the steel reels and tanks,
Durability, ease of cleaning, and easy to dry. I might also add that mastering the task of loading a steel reel by touch is a rite of passage that will allow one to approach most any total dark task with confidence.

As for Hewes reels, they are heavy gauge and don't bend if dropped (many old reels are out-of-true and unusable due to such) and the 35mm version has a feature that makes loading easy-peasie.


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12-02-2021, 07:00 PM - 1 Like   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Being a fan of stainless steel reels and tanks, I consider knowing how to thread film onto those as worth knowing as well...Hewes reels are strongly recommended!
Not your typical Martini mixer:




I'm also a big fan of Stainless film processing gear, the ease of use and simplified clean up is worth the price alone. I often buy it (particularly the hard-to-find vintage stuff) whenever it shows up on fleabay. Last year I really lucked out and got a Nikkor 4X5 developing spiral and tank set that was practically mint condition.

Last edited by Digitalis; 12-02-2021 at 10:20 PM.
12-02-2021, 10:23 PM - 1 Like   #25
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If you go plastic reels and tank I reckon the Jobo are miles ahead of Paterson, some of the Paterson are ok, but can get stuck with these, yes i know keep them dry, no such sticking with the Jobo.
12-02-2021, 10:39 PM - 1 Like   #26
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I would say that it is good to know what "normal" looks like before doing other things.
12-02-2021, 11:45 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by beachgardener Quote
If you go plastic reels and tank I reckon the Jobo are miles ahead of Paterson, some of the Paterson are ok, but can get stuck with these, yes i know keep them dry, no such sticking with the Jobo.
I've only just got started using an AP tank and reels. Since I have no experience other than numerous practice runs and one completed developing session, I can't say whether the AP products are better or worse than any others, but they seem to work OK and are quite well-regarded (my reason for buying). Knowing my weakness for gear, it would be all too easy for me to end up building a whole collection of tanks and reels For now, I need to use what I have and concentrate on building my skills
12-03-2021, 12:41 AM - 1 Like   #28
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Absolutely yes. When I was doing some photography in Toowoomba all they had was Paterson reels and tanks and they worked flawlessly. I had one my self that would always stick. When I got the Jobo reels, no sticking at all. I I'm talking about completely dry reels here also.
12-03-2021, 09:17 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by beachgardener Quote
Absolutely yes. When I was doing some photography in Toowoomba all they had was Paterson reels and tanks and they worked flawlessly. I had one my self that would always stick. When I got the Jobo reels, no sticking at all. I I'm talking about completely dry reels here also.
Do the Jobo reels fit Paterson tanks? I like the Paterson tank design, but the sticking reels can be infuriating. If humidity is low, and I'm quick about it in the changing bag before my hands make things too damp in there, then they're fine. But in the humid summer they can be royal pain in the rear. The AP reels are an option too, from what folks here have said. Adorama's reels seem to be rebranded AP reels: https://www.adorama.com/dkrp.html?

BTW, there are some knock-off Paterson reels out there that are cheap imitations. They look identical, but are total crap. The films almost always stick no matter what the humidity is, and little ball bearings rust. I once bought a couple and chucked them out pretty quickly.
12-03-2021, 09:33 AM   #30
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I've been happy with the AP plastic tanks and reels that I've used. The reels have to be kept clean or the bearings stick and it all goes sideways. I *think* AP went out of business a couple of years ago, though but I was able to buy some AP hardware through Adorama last year; it was under their own store brand label.
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