Flattening curly film?

**BigMackCam** · 12-07-2021, 02:16 PM

In my first foray into home film development, I ended up with some fairly-well-developed 120 Fomapan 200 that was challenging to digitise because it's so "curly" (I believe some folks described it as "springy"). It's not bowed across the width of the film; rather, it has retained much of its curl from when it was on the original reel. I've read that Fomapan 200 is known for this, but hadn't expected it to be quite so bad - especially since I dried it well, with a weighted clip at the bottom to keep it straight.

I've read an interesting method of reducing this curl by loading the developed and dried film onto a developing tank reel with the emulsion side facing outwards, so that it's gently bent in the opposite direction to the curl, and leaving it like that for a few days. Has anyone tried this? Is there any danger to the emulsion in doing so? Or are there better methods? I've had the negatives sleeved in my folder for a few days, and I believe they're a little bit flatter, but not much

Thanks in advance

Last edited by BigMackCam; 12-07-2021 at 02:59 PM.

Chris_K · 12-07-2021, 02:57 PM - **1 Like**

Hi,
So I've never tried the method you describe but I used to use the "thick book" method

I would place the sleeved film into a thick book for a while (time wasn't an issue so a couple of days was ok for me) and they were usually pretty flat (and not "springy") after that.

3by2 · 12-07-2021, 04:12 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by BigMackCam

I've read an interesting method of reducing this curl by loading the developed and dried film onto a developing tank reel with the emulsion side facing outwards, so that it's gently bent in the opposite direction to the curl, and leaving it like that for a few days. Has anyone tried this?

Yes but my memory of doing it is a bit hazy. It was a 120, it wasn't easy and I was worried about crinkling or scratching the film and I've got a funny feeling it wasn't very successful either. I don't think I repeated it. Worth a try with a dummy roll if you have one. They will eventually flatten under weight.

bertwert · 12-07-2021, 04:25 PM - **2 Likes**

You know that trick where you curl ribbon by running it across the back of a scissor blade or some like object? Do that with the film, but to counteract the current curls, with a bit of practice you'll straighten it right out

Oh, wait, you want photos the film to still be good afterwards..?

shyrsio · 12-07-2021, 05:22 PM - **1 Like**

My best idea it to hang weights on them when you hand them to dry, other than that it is really difficult to get them really straight.

**ChrisPlatt** · 12-07-2021, 06:08 PM - **1 Like**

I've always placed my curly negatives (cut into strips) pressed between the pages of a book.
It takes some time but usually works well. Teaches one patience...

Chris

Not a Number · 12-08-2021, 12:13 AM - **1 Like**

Did you cut the negatives yet? If not loosely roll it with the emulsion side out and put a band of paper around it. Hold the paper band together with some sticky tape. Use some smooth paper like parchment paper or glassine. Or put them in those long sleeves in a roll (with fold and opening along one of the long sides) instead before rolling. Leave it wound up for several days.

Some labs used to return film like this when you specified "do not cut".

Or you could use a scanning masks such as to ones Lomography makes:

https://shop.lomography.com/en/digitaliza-120-scanning-mask-pads?country=us

Last edited by Not a Number; 12-08-2021 at 01:50 AM.

**Viking42** · 12-08-2021, 08:22 AM - **1 Like**

Mike, how are you storing your negs? If you haven't already cut the film, you might consider getting some of the Print File neg preservers. They are archival plastic sleeves that come in a wide variety of configurations for 135 and 120 film, depending on format and preference. I have used these since the '80s and they are great. I find that once inserted into the sleeves and stored in a binder with other films, the negs will slowly flatten out over time. Since you only have one film for now, you can just place the sheet under a book for a few weeks...that should do the trick.

The nice thing about the Print File sleeves is that they are transparent, which makes them perfect for looking at your negs through a loupe on a light pad without fear of scratching or dust. And if you ever start darkroom printing, you can make a contact sheet without taking the negs out. Very useful, and highly recommended.

**BigMackCam** · 12-08-2021, 08:39 AM

Thanks for all the responses, folks

On this occasion I had indeed already cut my negatives into four strips of three, for storage in a folder using Hama glassine sleeves - however, I digitised them before they'd spent much time in the sleeves (I was a tad over-enthusiastic and couldn't wait to see what the results were like

).

The film holder I'm using for digitising is the "Essential Film Holder", which has a great reputation for keeping negatives flat without touching the emulsion or base, but it had a tough time with the Fomapan 200 as the film is rather thin compared to some, and the 0.5mm guides in the EFH are just a bit too big. As a result, the first and last frames in my strips of three had a noticeable curl at the ends, although this was mitigated by the aperture I used for capture. The worst part was trying to get the film fed into the EFH in the first place

Since I don't have any separate glassine paper or rolls of sleeving, I think I'll try storing the negatives in my existing sleeves after drying and placing them under a heavy book for a couple of weeks. As has already been suggested, I'll just have to be a bit more patient

**Viking42** · 12-08-2021, 04:40 PM

That’s the main reason I’ve never bothered to try Foma films, is that I had heard they are very thin and prone to curling. Working with Ilford and Kodak films is a breeze, so I’m sticking with those

. And I will happily pay a few dollars more for them. You’ll see the difference once you use some of that HP5.

**BigMackCam** · 12-09-2021, 12:12 AM

Originally posted by Viking42

That’s the main reason I’ve never bothered to try Foma films, is that I had heard they are very thin and prone to curling. Working with Ilford and Kodak films is a breeze, so I’m sticking with those

. And I will happily pay a few dollars more for them. You’ll see the difference once you use some of that HP5.

I feel like I should have read about film thickness before I'd bought any, Svend - but I didn't even know it was a "thing"; that some films are thinner and more "springy" than others, while some even bend across their width. I'll be more careful (or more informed, at least) in my future film choices. Looking forward to trying the HP5+... it seems like a very versatile film, from everything I've read. I guess I'd better pick up some of that Ilfotec HC sooner rather than later

**Viking42** · 12-09-2021, 06:25 AM - **1 Like**

I'm sure Foma films are capable of great images, so if you don't mind the thin base then that's great. Personally I would be put off by fiddling with a film so bendy and thin. Kodak I think have the thickest bases, and stay nice and flat. But damn they're expensive now, at least here in Canada. Pushing almost $2 a frame in my 6x9 camera! Motivation to make every frame count.

Parallax · 12-09-2021, 07:06 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by shyrsio

My best idea it to hang weights on them when you hand them to dry, other than that it is really difficult to get them really straight.

^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.
If you have film that is already dry and curled excessively just soak it in water, preferably distilled, and hang it with a few ounces of weight clipped to the bottom.

**BigMackCam** · 12-10-2021, 12:44 PM

Originally posted by Parallax

^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.
If you have film that is already dry and curled excessively just soak it in water, preferably distilled, and hang it with a few ounces of weight clipped to the bottom.

I used a weighted clip at the base while drying, but I'm thinking I should have left the film hanging for longer. I mean, it was completely dried... but it had only been hanging for maybe three hours. Perhaps if I'd left it overnight, or a full 24 hours, it would have been less springy.

Anyway, going forward, when I shoot Fomapan 200 (or any other Foma film) I'll hang it overnight at the very least, then cut the roll into strips, store in the glassine sleeves and leave them under a heavy book for a week or two before attempting to digitise... If I can resist the temptation, that is

If I can't resist, I'll leave the roll uncut and digitise it in one go. It's only the leading edge of the first frame in each strip that's problematic in my film holder. Once that's into the guide slot, the rest of the film follows through quite nicely and is "flat enough" within the holder's 0.5mm gap... so, digitising before I cut the roll into strips for storage might be a practical option.

I could just avoid Foma films in future, but I rather liked the results from the Fomapan 200 in my little Agfa Isola II. It developed nicely in Rodinal, the grain was quite mild, detail was decent and contrast was pretty balanced. Well, I still have a few rolls of it left, so I'll be shooting those at least

Parallax · 12-10-2021, 12:57 PM

It's been 35 years or more since I've developed any film. Over the years I tried a few different films and developers, but the overwhelming majority of what I did was on Kodak Tri-X (sometimes Plus-X) and developed in Microdol. Microdol gave the finest grain of any I tried.
I don't remember what fixer I used.

12-07-2021, 02:16 PM	#1
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,681	Flattening curly film? In my first foray into home film development, I ended up with some fairly-well-developed 120 Fomapan 200 that was challenging to digitise because it's so "curly" (I believe some folks described it as "springy"). It's not bowed across the width of the film; rather, it has retained much of its curl from when it was on the original reel. I've read that Fomapan 200 is known for this, but hadn't expected it to be quite so bad - especially since I dried it well, with a weighted clip at the bottom to keep it straight. I've read an interesting method of reducing this curl by loading the developed and dried film onto a developing tank reel with the emulsion side facing outwards, so that it's gently bent in the opposite direction to the curl, and leaving it like that for a few days. Has anyone tried this? Is there any danger to the emulsion in doing so? Or are there better methods? I've had the negatives sleeved in my folder for a few days, and I believe they're a little bit flatter, but not much Thanks in advance Last edited by BigMackCam; 12-07-2021 at 02:59 PM.

12-08-2021, 12:13 AM - 1 Like	#7
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Did you cut the negatives yet? If not loosely roll it with the emulsion side out and put a band of paper around it. Hold the paper band together with some sticky tape. Use some smooth paper like parchment paper or glassine. Or put them in those long sleeves in a roll (with fold and opening along one of the long sides) instead before rolling. Leave it wound up for several days. Some labs used to return film like this when you specified "do not cut". Or you could use a scanning masks such as to ones Lomography makes: Vimeo https://shop.lomography.com/en/digitaliza-120-scanning-mask-pads?country=us Last edited by Not a Number; 12-08-2021 at 01:50 AM.

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12-07-2021, 02:57 PM - 1 Like	#2
Chris_K Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Poland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,800	Hi, So I've never tried the method you describe but I used to use the "thick book" method I would place the sleeved film into a thick book for a while (time wasn't an issue so a couple of days was ok for me) and they were usually pretty flat (and not "springy") after that.

12-07-2021, 04:12 PM - 1 Like	#3
3by2 Closed Account Join Date: Feb 2019 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 819	Originally posted by BigMackCam I've read an interesting method of reducing this curl by loading the developed and dried film onto a developing tank reel with the emulsion side facing outwards, so that it's gently bent in the opposite direction to the curl, and leaving it like that for a few days. Has anyone tried this? Yes but my memory of doing it is a bit hazy. It was a 120, it wasn't easy and I was worried about crinkling or scratching the film and I've got a funny feeling it wasn't very successful either. I don't think I repeated it. Worth a try with a dummy roll if you have one. They will eventually flatten under weight.

12-07-2021, 04:25 PM - 2 Likes	#4
bertwert Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Golden, BC Posts: 15,172	You know that trick where you curl ribbon by running it across the back of a scissor blade or some like object? Do that with the film, but to counteract the current curls, with a bit of practice you'll straighten it right out Oh, wait, you want photos the film to still be good afterwards..?

12-07-2021, 05:22 PM - 1 Like	#5
shyrsio Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Tirana Posts: 780	My best idea it to hang weights on them when you hand them to dry, other than that it is really difficult to get them really straight.

12-07-2021, 06:08 PM - 1 Like	#6
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,696	I've always placed my curly negatives (cut into strips) pressed between the pages of a book. It takes some time but usually works well. Teaches one patience... Chris

12-08-2021, 08:22 AM - 1 Like	#8
Viking42 Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada Photos: Albums Posts: 504	Mike, how are you storing your negs? If you haven't already cut the film, you might consider getting some of the Print File neg preservers. They are archival plastic sleeves that come in a wide variety of configurations for 135 and 120 film, depending on format and preference. I have used these since the '80s and they are great. I find that once inserted into the sleeves and stored in a binder with other films, the negs will slowly flatten out over time. Since you only have one film for now, you can just place the sheet under a book for a few weeks...that should do the trick. The nice thing about the Print File sleeves is that they are transparent, which makes them perfect for looking at your negs through a loupe on a light pad without fear of scratching or dust. And if you ever start darkroom printing, you can make a contact sheet without taking the negs out. Very useful, and highly recommended.

12-08-2021, 08:39 AM	#9
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,681 Original Poster	Thanks for all the responses, folks On this occasion I had indeed already cut my negatives into four strips of three, for storage in a folder using Hama glassine sleeves - however, I digitised them before they'd spent much time in the sleeves (I was a tad over-enthusiastic and couldn't wait to see what the results were like ). The film holder I'm using for digitising is the "Essential Film Holder", which has a great reputation for keeping negatives flat without touching the emulsion or base, but it had a tough time with the Fomapan 200 as the film is rather thin compared to some, and the 0.5mm guides in the EFH are just a bit too big. As a result, the first and last frames in my strips of three had a noticeable curl at the ends, although this was mitigated by the aperture I used for capture. The worst part was trying to get the film fed into the EFH in the first place Since I don't have any separate glassine paper or rolls of sleeving, I think I'll try storing the negatives in my existing sleeves after drying and placing them under a heavy book for a couple of weeks. As has already been suggested, I'll just have to be a bit more patient

12-08-2021, 04:40 PM	#10
Viking42 Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada Photos: Albums Posts: 504	That’s the main reason I’ve never bothered to try Foma films, is that I had heard they are very thin and prone to curling. Working with Ilford and Kodak films is a breeze, so I’m sticking with those . And I will happily pay a few dollars more for them. You’ll see the difference once you use some of that HP5.

12-09-2021, 12:12 AM	#11
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,681 Original Poster	Originally posted by Viking42 That’s the main reason I’ve never bothered to try Foma films, is that I had heard they are very thin and prone to curling. Working with Ilford and Kodak films is a breeze, so I’m sticking with those . And I will happily pay a few dollars more for them. You’ll see the difference once you use some of that HP5. I feel like I should have read about film thickness before I'd bought any, Svend - but I didn't even know it was a "thing"; that some films are thinner and more "springy" than others, while some even bend across their width. I'll be more careful (or more informed, at least) in my future film choices. Looking forward to trying the HP5+... it seems like a very versatile film, from everything I've read. I guess I'd better pick up some of that Ilfotec HC sooner rather than later

12-09-2021, 06:25 AM - 1 Like	#12
Viking42 Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada Photos: Albums Posts: 504	I'm sure Foma films are capable of great images, so if you don't mind the thin base then that's great. Personally I would be put off by fiddling with a film so bendy and thin. Kodak I think have the thickest bases, and stay nice and flat. But damn they're expensive now, at least here in Canada. Pushing almost $2 a frame in my 6x9 camera! Motivation to make every frame count.

12-09-2021, 07:06 AM - 1 Like	#13
Parallax Senior Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Dakota Photos: Gallery Posts: 19,332	Originally posted by shyrsio My best idea it to hang weights on them when you hand them to dry, other than that it is really difficult to get them really straight. ^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. If you have film that is already dry and curled excessively just soak it in water, preferably distilled, and hang it with a few ounces of weight clipped to the bottom.

12-10-2021, 12:44 PM	#14
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,681 Original Poster	Originally posted by Parallax ^^^^^^^^ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. If you have film that is already dry and curled excessively just soak it in water, preferably distilled, and hang it with a few ounces of weight clipped to the bottom. I used a weighted clip at the base while drying, but I'm thinking I should have left the film hanging for longer. I mean, it was completely dried... but it had only been hanging for maybe three hours. Perhaps if I'd left it overnight, or a full 24 hours, it would have been less springy. Anyway, going forward, when I shoot Fomapan 200 (or any other Foma film) I'll hang it overnight at the very least, then cut the roll into strips, store in the glassine sleeves and leave them under a heavy book for a week or two before attempting to digitise... If I can resist the temptation, that is If I can't resist, I'll leave the roll uncut and digitise it in one go. It's only the leading edge of the first frame in each strip that's problematic in my film holder. Once that's into the guide slot, the rest of the film follows through quite nicely and is "flat enough" within the holder's 0.5mm gap... so, digitising before I cut the roll into strips for storage might be a practical option. I could just avoid Foma films in future, but I rather liked the results from the Fomapan 200 in my little Agfa Isola II. It developed nicely in Rodinal, the grain was quite mild, detail was decent and contrast was pretty balanced. Well, I still have a few rolls of it left, so I'll be shooting those at least

12-10-2021, 12:57 PM	#15
Parallax Senior Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Dakota Photos: Gallery Posts: 19,332	It's been 35 years or more since I've developed any film. Over the years I tried a few different films and developers, but the overwhelming majority of what I did was on Kodak Tri-X (sometimes Plus-X) and developed in Microdol. Microdol gave the finest grain of any I tried. I don't remember what fixer I used.