[Lhorn]

A generous member of another message board was kind enough to give me a pretty good supply of Kodak and Fuji slide film. Cold stored I believe but long since expired (20 years). I’ve never developed
slide film so had Planned to shoot a send out for development. He said he used
some and it had a magenta cast which could be corrected by using filters. I doubt I have the right filters and wondered if I could correct the cast in Lightroom instead.
Also, would you start by overexposing by 1 or 2 stops given it’s age?

Thanks

[UncleVanya]

I suggest you sort the film into groups: all of the rolls of the same type in a group assuming it was all stored the same. Then if it is feasible pick one roll of each to use as a test strip. Shoot multiple scenes with very detailed exposure data bracketing heavily. This will tell you how the film is behaving.

Here’s an example I read about: Process 025 ?* How To Shoot Expired Slide Film

As for color cast, that’s a messy subject. Some say to just go with post processing digital correction. Others say using an appropriate counter filter like green is a good option. The problem is that you have zero feedback and the colors aren’t likely to be consistent.

https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/magenta-cast-on-fuji-velvia-50-rvp.498850/

[Lhorn]

Thanks. That makes sense. The film is Astia and Portra.
I’ll probably shoot a roll of each at box speed and bracket by shooting 1 frame regular, 1 stop over and 2 stops over.
At worst I can try to process as c41 and see what wild colors I get.

[disconnekt]

You shoot it at box speed, and you can correct the color cast in post. Since it's been cold stored for a good amount of time, the color cast should be minor, and if the film is 400 iso and lower, the grain shouldn't be that bad.

I've been shooting alot of expired slide film lately and a large majority of them have expired in the last ~20 years or so, which I've shot at box speed and they came out fine, some minor color cast but it's managable in post. The only rolls that I had issues with was with some rolls of Fujichrome RF 50 (expired in 1988) that came out faded, and a roll of 3M Scotchchrome 1000 (don't know when it expired), that came out very grainy & had a major color cast.

[ProfessorBuzz]

Thanks. That makes sense. The film is Astia and Portra.
I’ll probably shoot a roll of each at box speed and bracket by shooting 1 frame regular, 1 stop over and 2 stops over.
At worst I can try to process as c41 and see what wild colors I get.

Which exact film is it? eg Fujichrome Astia 100F ?
As far as I can recall, Portra is negative (C41) film. Ektrachrome E100, E200 types, sure, but Portra was always negative film as far as I know.

Interesting article here on cross-processing the other way (Portra to E6 instead of C41):

https://petapixel.com/2018/05/04/cross-processing-kodak-portra-400-in-e6/

Have fun!

[Lhorn]

I’m sorry. You are correct. It’s Portra 400 NC color negative and Astia 100 Daylight slide film

[UncleVanya]

I’m sorry. You are correct. It’s Portra 400 NC color negative and Astia 100 Daylight slide film

Negative film is a bit more predictable - add a stop of overexposure for every 10 years old it is if stored well.
Lower ISO ranges tend to hold up better than higher.

Have fun!

[LesDMess]

Thanks. That makes sense. The film is Astia and Portra.
I’ll probably shoot a roll of each at box speed and bracket by shooting 1 frame regular, 1 stop over and 2 stops over.
At worst I can try to process as c41 and see what wild colors I get.

Well, with Portra you likely won't notice a 2 stop overexposure. In fact, you can overexpose it by 10 stops and still get usable results with the most minor of post work like levels and white balance . . .



At the same time I only tested Kodak Ektar to +5 thinking that would be good given it's a contrasty film compared to Portra but that is clearly not it's limit. I have since made good use of it well above. This applies to all the other color negatives and most all b&w films I have used.

I didn't test Astia 100 in this way but I believe it has at least a 2 stop overexposure range given the results I have gotten from it.

If these were kept refrigerated I doubt if any of it will require any exposure or development compensation. I too was given some rolls of Kodak Royal Gold 25 that was almost 20 years expired and was refrigerated and got these results. Shot and developed at box speed.

[Lhorn]

That’s encouraging. Thanks. I’m eager to see what results I get. I’ll probably take a gamble and try box speed and maybe brackets a few shots.

Sounds like the Astia might be less forgiving.

[disconnekt]

Of the expired slide rolls I've shot, 9 of them where of Fuji's "budget line" of slide film, Sensia. 3 rolls of Sensia II 100 (all expired 10/2000) and 6 rolls of Sensia 200 (expired 10/1998), which I had got from Ultrafine Online, overall all came out fine. I got them from Ultrafine Online, which they say they've had them in their freezer since they had them.

[UncleVanya]

That’s encouraging. Thanks. I’m eager to see what results I get. I’ll probably take a gamble and try box speed and maybe brackets a few shots.

Sounds like the Astia might be less forgiving.

Why not go ahead and overexpose at least 1 or even two stops as insurance and perhaps shoot a few images on the roll at box speed and perhaps a few at 4 stops over exposed as well. The overexposed shots are likely to work even if the film retained the full sensitivity, and if the film has lost some sensitivity you’re more likely in the ballpark.

[Kombivan]

A generous member of another message board was kind enough to give me a pretty good supply of Kodak and Fuji slide film. Cold stored I believe but long since expired (20 years). I’ve never developed
slide film so had Planned to shoot a send out for development. He said he used
some and it had a magenta cast which could be corrected by using filters. I doubt I have the right filters and wondered if I could correct the cast in Lightroom instead.
Also, would you start by overexposing by 1 or 2 stops given it’s age?

Thanks

use a flash with a light blue saturm bed sheet for a backdrop that should fix it indoors. or possibly a flourecent light filter or light blue filter maybe even light green filter may help outdoors. A tobacco filter would give a nice effect.

[LesDMess]

That’s encouraging. Thanks. I’m eager to see what results I get. I’ll probably take a gamble and try box speed and maybe brackets a few shots.

Sounds like the Astia might be less forgiving.

If by "less forgiving" you mean narrower latitude then that is correct for all slide films I have tried. I feel Kodachrome had the narrowest latitude but I took great comfort in knowing people successfully exposed frames for decades with far less sophisticated metering systems - or none at all, then we have today. The rule of thumb is expose slides for the most critical point in the frame and everything else will fall where they may. Similar in digital, use the histogram and expose to the right - or was that left, to ensure you're not blowing out the critical point. With color negatives and b&w, you can have a frame with deep shadows and bright highlights and you can get them all if you meter towards overexposure. For instance in this frame of Kodak Portra 400, I just averaged meter the scene and it seems it has deep shadows and "blownout" highlights in the scan but in actuality the film has captured far more but you will need to do some post work in order to realize the full extent - if you want or need to, using shadows and highlights tool.



Another way you can do this is over and under expose the scan of the same frame and combine them via HDR mode. I did this with a frame of Fuji Velvia 100 as well as just using shadows and highlights on one scan for comparison.



I believe Fuji Velvia 100 and Astia 100 are similar in latitude while Astia leans more towards portraiture in color balance.

[ChrisPlatt]

I recently gave away some new Ektachrome E100 film that was a year past its expiration date.
I shoot color slides only once a year on my autumn vacation, weather permitting.

Chris

[riffraffselbow]

of the expired slide films I've shot, I've seen 3 kinds:
-basically fine. a bit of color shift here or there.
-major magenta shift. basically impossible to correct with filters
-totally fogged. I got a huge batch of this stuff for dirt cheap, but shot and processed at box speed it comes back fully blank. I've had some surprising and interesting success shooting it 5 stops (!) overexposed (ISO 3 because it's 100-speed film), and then developing it 6+ stops under in C41 doctored with benzotriazole.

My advice:
if you've got only a couple rolls of each, just use it at box speed shooting non-critical work you won't be crushed to see come back magenta and muddy. If a roll out of a batch comes back magenta and/or muddy, consider cross-processing it for the latitude gain.
If you've got many (10+ rolls) of a given type, only then would I seriously consider "spending" a roll testing the fog, bracketing, etc.
If you end up with film of the third category, you could try starting somewhere like I'm suggesting, but know that dialing in my process took many rolls and good luck finding a lab that will cross process slide film at a -5 stop pull :P.