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06-14-2022, 07:57 AM - 1 Like   #16
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I echo everything Big Mac has provided. I use a Kiron (nee Ricoh) 105mm f2.8 1:1 macro on my K-5 II. I don't try for max magnification with my 35mm negatives; maybe I'm missing some detail, but I can't see it, and I am not going to go searching for improvements in my process in that area. I use a pretty basic tripod with the mount inserted from the bottom so the camera is facing down when aimed properly. This gives me lots of adjustable distance from the negative.

If I were looking for "the perfect lens" for this and I wanted to work with multiple formats I would probably go looking for a copy of the Sigma 70mm f2.8 Macro or possibly the Mamiya/Yashinon 60mm f2.8 Macro. I think I'd be better off perfecting other areas of my setup first, like having a perfect light source or negative holder & mask setup, etc.

06-14-2022, 08:57 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by cdw2000 Quote
What I need is a rail with tripod screws on either end that can be adjusted for distance and height. I would mount the light source on one end and a macro focusing rail on the other. Does anyone make such a thing?
You could just use a piece of "80/20," which is an aluminum extrusion with T slots on (usually) four sides. You'll need 1/4-20 T nuts for it, and maybe a little bit of other hardware, but it should be very suitable for that, and easily configurable.
06-14-2022, 09:54 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by cdw2000 Quote
. As others pointed out, the 35mm Macro Limited was definitely not suitable due to working distance. With the 100mm Macro, with all extension tubes attached, the device was just a smidge too short to get the entire 35mm frame without some cropping.
I've managed a pretty decent working distance with the Helicoid Extension tube + 100mm macro, however according to the extension tube manual that's not quite a supported configuration....Trying to determine if this is going to cause any issues.
06-14-2022, 10:04 AM   #19
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What do you need the extension tube for again? Are you hunting for 1:1 or higher magnification?

06-14-2022, 10:20 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
What do you need the extension tube for again? Are you hunting for 1:1 or higher magnification?
You beat me to it...

Looking at the reviews, I see the A100/4 has a maximum magnification of 1:2, not 1:1 as I'd assumed. On an APS-C sensor, at 1:2 the 35mm negative isn't going to fill the frame...
06-14-2022, 10:29 AM   #21
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It feels like searching for something that doesn't matter anyway... I'd simplify the solution and just use the 100 F4 Macro without any tubes or other additions and worry about having good light and good focusing on the negatives. Having a longer lens + mount apparatus on the camera seems like it would be more prone to minute movement during the "scan" which is not good.
06-14-2022, 12:11 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
What do you need the extension tube for again? Are you hunting for 1:1 or higher magnification?
Look at the product I linked. It's not an extension tube in the traditional sense that goes between the lens and the camera body. Its used to set the distance from the lens to the slide holder.

---------- Post added 06-14-22 at 03:16 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by wadge22 Quote
You could just use a piece of "80/20," which is an aluminum extrusion with T slots on (usually) four sides. You'll need 1/4-20 T nuts for it, and maybe a little bit of other hardware, but it should be very suitable for that, and easily configurable.
That's exactly what a colleague at work suggested. The trouble is finding a local source since I only need about 18" worth (and probably less). I figured out I need a piece of 10 series 80/20 extrusion.

---------- Post added 06-14-22 at 03:21 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
You may have read it previously, but some months ago I created a thread detailing my own setup and the decisions behind it. That setup has worked out really well for me, and I'd recommend anyone at least consider something similar as one option for DSLR / mirrorless digitising of negatives...

Creating a DSLR-based film negative digitising rig - PentaxForums.com

Since posting that thread, I added a Sigma 50mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro for 120 negatives, which provides an ideal working distance on APS-C...
Thanks for that link. I do recall having read that at some point. I do have a decent tripod with a reversible center column. The trick is making the light source/slide holder fixed in place relative to the camera/tripod so I don't have to realign it every time I change slides.

06-14-2022, 12:45 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by cdw2000 Quote
Thanks for that link. I do recall having read that at some point. I do have a decent tripod with a reversible center column. The trick is making the light source/slide holder fixed in place relative to the camera/tripod so I don't have to realign it every time I change slides.
That's the benefit of using a copy stand and a film carrier such as the Essential Film Holder (there are some others). With rubber feet on the light panel, that stays put on the copy stand platform. With a rubber mask on the light panel, or rubber feet on the film holder, that stays put too. Inserting the film and advancing it to each frame doesn't move the setup relative to the camera, which is held firmly in place on the column such that distance and alignment rarely need tweaking.

A decent copy stand and film holder (and light panel or larger video light, depending on what you currently use) aren't cheap, but they're well worth it in terms convenience and consistency. There are all sorts of alternative and/or DIY options, but I've yet to see any that offer the same ease of workflow...
06-14-2022, 01:33 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
You beat me to it...

Looking at the reviews, I see the A100/4 has a maximum magnification of 1:2, not 1:1 as I'd assumed. On an APS-C sensor, at 1:2 the 35mm negative isn't going to fill the frame...
Yep, though the dental version has markings for 1:1 and 2:1 if you have the magnetic close up lenses that attach to the front. There’s a set on eBay…..
06-14-2022, 01:37 PM   #25
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I just purchased a very good condition Pentax Auto Bellows X2 + Slide holder on ebay. It's M42 mount, but I think I can adapt it to hold a camera and the light source/slide mount I purchased off Amazon. Or, I get an M42 lens and M42 to K mount adapter and use it like it was designed. I'm kicking myself now. I had a nice M42 lens and the adapter and pretty much gave them away as part of a deal when I sold my K1000...
09-24-2022, 05:52 PM   #26
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Using DSLR to scan negs and film.

Hi guys

I am new to this forum. I joined today. I have had a lifetime of experience with Pentax, Nikon and Canon cameras going way back to film cameras. I also dabble in medium format Rolleiflex, Bronica and Mamiya. I hope I can answer some questions and share some experience that may help other members of the forum.

I have been experimenting with bellows units and different lenses to scan my film and slides that I have taken over the years. I have found that when scanning film it is best to use the bellows rail and slide copier attachment without the bellows unit attached.

I am using a Canon FD bellows unit at the moment which is basically the same as the Nikon, Contax, Yashica and many others. I got the adapters needed to use Nikon and Pentax lenses from AliExpress for a very good price. I also have the Pentax bellows unit which is quite small compared to the Canon. They both do the job very well. At the end of the day you don't have to buy a bellows unit and slide copier that is specific to any camera or lens as we can buy any adapters that we need today and they don't cost a great deal. When scanning film and negs I find for me it is best to work in manual mode.

I have found that you can use lenses that you may already own without having to spend out more money. You can also invest in a cheap macro lens, or an enlarger lens to do the job and get top quality.

I am currently using a Pentax SMC Takumar 60mm macro lens as they are reasonably priced and produce great quality images. I paid £60.00 for my one and it was in mint condition. There are some great M42 macro lenses out there that give stunning images for not a lot of money. I did buy a Pentacon standard 50mm 1.8 for £15.00 and this has also been a stunner. I always say that with something like this you only have to buy once.

I have also used standard 50mm, 35mm and 28mm lenses with great results. It is a good idea to get a set of extension rings for whatever brand lens that you use. You only need the manual tubes which are very cheap. An example of the use of extension tubes is a standard 55mm Pentax M42 lens with tubes that add up to around 30mm. This set up will allow you to use most standard lenses. You can buy a Pentax SMC 55mm F2.0 for not much at all. For this purpose you do not need the SMC versions. The Pentax MC versions will work just as well as you don't have to worry about the issues of outdoor photography problems. You can also buy them much cheaper than the SMC variants.

Another alternative is a good old cheap Zoom in the range of 35mm to 70mm like the old Nikon AF or AF-D 35 - 70mm f3.5 to f4.5, or the equivalent from any other brand. I say cheap as you can pick up some stunning lenses that were at the top of the optical tree for not a lot of money today. An Example of this the Nikon AF 35 - 70mm which you can pick up for £40.00 today, or the Canon which I have seen go for £30.00 This focal length lens for scanning negs and slides is a real peach that captures a top quality image while giving you a bit of freedom to zoom and focus to get everything in the frame.

I have attached my Pentax 60mm macro to a Nikon 24MP digital camera using a cheap adapter that goes M42 to Nikon F. I have found that you don't need auto focus or auto exposure for this. So what I have is the camera and lens mounted on one end of the bellows rail and the slide copier at the other end. Behind the the slide copier unit I have a small LED rechargeable light to illuminate the slide or neg. It works really well.

I have this linked up to my computer using a USB cable from camera to computer and have that wonderful free app called "Digicam Control". It is a great piece of software that is free. I donate now and then to Digicam Control. TBH if it was available for sale I would likely buy it.

At the end of the day. buy the best that you can afford but don't feel compromised if you go for some of the above suggestions that are very cheap to buy. You will not be disappointed with the cheapest options that I have pointed out.

Best wishes to you all. If anyone needs help in setting up, let me know. I have spent a great deal of time and effort to get the best possible system without having to spend a fortune and I am more than happy to share the experience of it all with you.

Regards

Roger1954
09-30-2022, 09:21 AM   #27
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I have used the 50/4 SMC macro on a bellows, and the hard part is to get the 1:1.6 magnification from 35mm to APS as the bellows should be very compressed.
I have tried the lens directly on camera (on an enlarger colum) and 1:2 is close enough to get good results. With the K5IIs I get ~10MP (2600x3800) images.

With the 100/4 and a closeup+1 you should get there, just make a "cone" of black paper to keep straight light away
09-30-2022, 11:03 AM   #28
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This is what I use with my APC and My 645Z both using macro lenses
https://www.pixl-latr.com/, amazon.com: HUION L4S LED Light Box A4 Ultra-Thin USB Powered Adjustable Light Pad for Tracing?tag=pentaxforums-20&, HUION ST300 Adjustable Drawing Tablet Stand Portable Desk Stand, Suitable for Kamvas 12/13/16, Kamvas Pro 12/Pro 13/Pro 16 on Amazon. Using these three items with my macro focusing rail I do not have to do a straight down shot from my tripod. I have digitalized a variety of formats both black and white and color. Pix-latr is constantly expanding the hold-down system it uses to cover a wide variety of film types. the lightbox is a nice size and very even in lighting, the stand gives you the prop up angle to make it all easy to use without having to do a straight lookdown. All are reasonably priced and will last a lifetime.
10-17-2022, 05:07 AM   #29
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I've not been shooting much lately, but did work on some "scanning" the other day and 100mm F4 seems to produce decent results with the 645 format.

I'm only messing with B&W at home, so it's good enough for social media shares and anything higher resolution will be printed at the community darkroom.
11-20-2022, 01:51 AM   #30
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Scanning with APS-C camera

Hi, I am relatively new to the forum, and using info from the forum I decided to go down the bellows route. I bought an Auto bellows A unit and slide copier A (one from UK, the other from Finland :-) ).Also I bought the SMC F 35-70 f3.5 - 4.5 macro lens that some had suggested was the way to go. However, I could not get that lens to work for me, I could not get the lens far enough away from the slide holder. Also, as some had noted, my K70 camera would not fit on the bellows due to its shape; I bought extension tubes to get over that obstacle. On a whim I decided to try out my DA18-135 f3.5-5.6 lens. To my surprise, that has worked, with the zoom setting around the 85 - 90 mm. However, the bellows on the slide copier attachment would not attach to the lens, and the lens hood that came with the lens would not fit over the slide copier bellows. So, I put a rubber 52mm lens hood on the slide copier bellows facing towards the lens and that works well, it has some flexibility to cope with minor changes in the position of the lens. However, the lens does not have an aperture ring, but by using the cable release, I can close the aperture although I don't necessarily know what aperture I am selecting. I only need to use the smallest of the extension tubes (#1) to get the camera to clear the bellows mount. Picture of the set-up is below in case anyone else wants to go in this direction.

Update to my earlier post
I have replaced the 18-135mm lens with a FA 28-105mm lens, this has an aperture ring. I have acquired a daylight high-CRI lamp to illuminate the slides, to reduce introduced colors - the colors are bad enough from the old slides.
I use a monitor connected to the HDMI port, and zoom in and out, to get the focus right. I find the focus-peaking inadequate in this situation.
The rubber hood was not connecting properly to the slide copier bellows, and mine did not come with the 52-49mm adapter. Genuine pentax 52mm lens would fit but anything else was slightly too large. I bought some step-up/step-down rings and managed to jam one of those in there.
I have attached photos of the revised set-up and one of a copied slide (Mt Everest at sunset , agfa 100 slide film, from November 1985)
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
SM-G975U1  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
SM-G975U1  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-70  Photo 

Last edited by GregP; 05-12-2023 at 07:07 PM.
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