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Pentax Lens Disassembly Database
Posted By: Chaos_Realm, 03-22-2012, 05:04 PM

Hi all,
I have recently been on the hunt for dis-assembly guides for the purpose of dust removal etc. They seem to be turning up in various places across the forum, so I plan on creating a list of all the Pentax lens disassembly posts here. I will categorise each lens like they are in the 'lens database' and you should be able to see which lenses have a guide and which do not. If I come across multiple guides then I will list them all under that lens so there is coverage or alternative explanations. And hopefully with your help we will be able to put together a substantial resource for the DIYer's here, although I do realize some lenses will never have an owner brave enough to strip down themselves due to the shear value. I know this will take quite some time but I think it will be worth it. I have restricted time at this point but I want to get the ball rolling. So here is what we have:

NB: Currently this tread is only for Pentax K-Mount & M42 Screw-mount lenses. Maybe once this has developed a bit I might look at introducing other pentax Mounts and or third party lenses and permitting time (and success of this resource) a cleaning guide with tips on tools and techniques. I am trying not to bite off more than I can chew for the moment so we will just stick with lenses listed below.

Digital Era K-mount Lenses Film Era K-Mount Lenses
M42 Screw Mount Lenses


Last edited by Chaos_Realm; 5 Days Ago at 02:23 AM.
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12-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #31
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Bonjour,

Does anyone have any info on a Takumar 28mm F2.8 Bayonet ... ?

I have one where the blades will not close ... any advice and/or input ... Salut,J

05-15-2014, 08:45 PM   #32
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pentax F*300 4.5 disassembly

my instruction and pictures pentax F*300 4.5 disassembly
https://www.flickr.com/photos/34859797@N07/sets/72157644680739402/

---------- Post added 05-16-2014 at 09:17 AM ----------

srry but i could not create my seperate stream difficult site to navigate, good to view and use marketplace for reference

---------- Post added 05-16-2014 at 09:19 AM ----------

even nowi find it a difficult site to use, not intutive, hope it uses a product designer to revamp the site on useability
05-28-2014, 08:35 PM   #33
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Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by uttam.hathi Quote
my instruction and pictures pentax F*300 4.5 disassembly
https://www.flickr.com/photos/34859797@N07/sets/72157644680739402/

---------- Post added 05-16-2014 at 09:17 AM ----------

srry but i could not create my seperate stream difficult site to navigate, good to view and use marketplace for reference

---------- Post added 05-16-2014 at 09:19 AM ----------

even nowi find it a difficult site to use, not intutive, hope it uses a product designer to revamp the site on useability
Thanks for the upload!
I have added the link - Seems to be quite thorough.
06-16-2014, 02:25 PM   #34
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Chaos_Realm. Great resource for information.

I am quite new to the Pentax Forums, so please accept my apologies if I am not posting this as it should be. Or if its in the wrong forum.

I have a Super Takumar 1:4 / 200 with some dust inside the 3rd element group. I think thats the correct terminology. I have followed the information provided in the previous link to: Lens Repair: Asahi Super-Takumar 200/4. But when David gets to this the description of this group he states:
Now you can clean both sides of the 1st and 2nd element and the front side of the 3rd element. I have never needed to access the rear part of the 3rd element but I suspect you twist off the black ring around the edge of the 3rd element and then you’ll be able to tap it out like the 1st element.


It is the rear part of the 3rd element I need to get to, as thats where the dust is. But I cant tell whether the black retaining collars are threaded, glued, or threaded and glued and didnt want to destroy them with enthusiasm....! The black retaining collars do not seem to want to turn, at either the front or the back.



If anyone has any experience of diassembling this group to access both sides of the lenses, I would really appreciate the help and advice.


For a bit more background on the problem I am trying to resolve. The dust appears to be more like black paint that has dropped off the matt black grooved walls of this group. But only in one area. I can see the aluminum specks, glistening through the matt black.



If I am able to remove the lens from both ends, would it be possible to clean the inner grooved barrel, to make sure I get rid of anymore loose paint and then recoat with some form of Matt Black paint from the car spares shop? I dont want to do all this work and then have some more paint flake off.


Thanks


Phil

Attached Images
 
06-27-2014, 11:05 AM - 1 Like   #35
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I've put together a complete build-up guide to the Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:1.9/85.

JB Media | S-M-C Takumar 1.9 85mm Refurbish

(When I make the next guide, I'll be sure and start with disassembly. I'm sure more people need to know how to open a lens rather than close it up.)
Can someone add this to the master list?
Thanks.
06-27-2014, 11:30 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by jbondo Quote
I've put together a complete build-up guide to the Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:1.9/85.

JB Media | S-M-C Takumar 1.9 85mm Refurbish

(When I make the next guide, I'll be sure and start with disassembly. I'm sure more people need to know how to open a lens rather than close it up.)
Can someone add this to the master list?
Thanks.
Excellent work ... TFS, J !!!
07-17-2014, 06:22 AM   #37
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Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by jbondo Quote
I've put together a complete build-up guide to the Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:1.9/85.

JB Media | S-M-C Takumar 1.9 85mm Refurbish

(When I make the next guide, I'll be sure and start with disassembly. I'm sure more people need to know how to open a lens rather than close it up.)
Can someone add this to the master list?
Thanks.
Excellent guide, anything is better than nothing from my experiences. My biggest concern is the unknown delicate springs or the like, so just being able to see whats there is a mile ahead of blind surgery

QuoteOriginally posted by philbrown1 Quote
If anyone has any experience of diassembling this group to access both sides of the lenses, I would really appreciate the help and advice
This is the right place to post, as people will be able to read the thread and match any discussion to the above related articles. As for your lens unfortunately it is beyond my knowledge as i have never owned a takumar let alone opened one up. Maybe someone else who stumbles onto this thread might have some further information.

Last edited by Chaos_Realm; 07-17-2014 at 06:28 AM.
07-17-2014, 02:25 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbrown1 Quote
I have a Super Takumar 1:4 / 200 with some dust inside the 3rd element group. I think thats the correct terminology. I have followed the information provided in the previous link to: Lens Repair: Asahi Super-Takumar 200/4. But when David gets to this the description of this group he states:
Now you can clean both sides of the 1st and 2nd element and the front side of the 3rd element. I have never needed to access the rear part of the 3rd element but I suspect you twist off the black ring around the edge of the 3rd element and then you’ll be able to tap it out like the 1st element.


It is the rear part of the 3rd element I need to get to, as thats where the dust is. But I cant tell whether the black retaining collars are threaded, glued, or threaded and glued and didnt want to destroy them with enthusiasm....! The black retaining collars do not seem to want to turn, at either the front or the back.



If anyone has any experience of diassembling this group to access both sides of the lenses, I would really appreciate the help and advice.


For a bit more background on the problem I am trying to resolve. The dust appears to be more like black paint that has dropped off the matt black grooved walls of this group. But only in one area. I can see the aluminum specks, glistening through the matt black.



If I am able to remove the lens from both ends, would it be possible to clean the inner grooved barrel, to make sure I get rid of anymore loose paint and then recoat with some form of Matt Black paint from the car spares shop? I dont want to do all this work and then have some more paint flake off.
philbrown1,

I've 100% refurbished 5 of this model now, and 2 of those 5 were difficult to disassemble in the same place as yours, so I think we can call this a 'problem area' for the model. The black retainer ring in question is screwed on as well as fixed with lacquer. The threads have a lot of surface area and the factory used a lot of lacquer fixative on some of these which can make ring removal very difficult without using a solvent, as well as possibly using a pair of small strap wrenches. I had good results with acetone. Use only just enough to get the job done. It's better to start small and use more if needed. Acetone will 'wick' into the threads from the side and will usually work within a minute or two. Sometimes repeat application and/or letting it rest are necessary. Acetone will degrade the blacking on the lens element edges so avoid contact there. Acetone will also very rapidly remove the matte black paint from the barrel interior so don't get any there unless that's what you want.

If most of the original blacking is sound, one of the easier ways to touch up the interior is with a paint pen or industrial sharpie marker. Whatever paint you use, be sure it will not out-gas volatiles after reassembly (if you can still smell it, it's not cured.) The matte black paint on the interior is somewhat water soluble, so don't soak the part in water for a long time unless you plan on completely re-doing it. Hope this helps!

07-23-2014, 10:10 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by jbondo Quote
philbrown1,

I've 100% refurbished 5 of this model now, and 2 of those 5 were difficult to disassemble in the same place as yours, so I think we can call this a 'problem area' for the model. The black retainer ring in question is screwed on as well as fixed with lacquer. The threads have a lot of surface area and the factory used a lot of lacquer fixative on some of these which can make ring removal very difficult without using a solvent, as well as possibly using a pair of small strap wrenches. I had good results with acetone. Use only just enough to get the job done. It's better to start small and use more if needed. Acetone will 'wick' into the threads from the side and will usually work within a minute or two. Sometimes repeat application and/or letting it rest are necessary. Acetone will degrade the blacking on the lens element edges so avoid contact there. Acetone will also very rapidly remove the matte black paint from the barrel interior so don't get any there unless that's what you want.


If most of the original blacking is sound, one of the easier ways to touch up the interior is with a paint pen or industrial sharpie marker. Whatever paint you use, be sure it will not out-gas volatiles after reassembly (if you can still smell it, it's not cured.) The matte black paint on the interior is somewhat water soluble, so don't soak the part in water for a long time unless you plan on completely re-doing it. Hope this helps!
Jobondo, thanks for all the details. Just what I needed to know. I don't have the time to start the repair at the moment, but I am sure the information you provided, will help me complete the task when I do. Got the acetone already. ;>)
07-23-2014, 11:51 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbrown1 Quote
Jobondo, thanks for all the details. Just what I needed to know. I don't have the time to start the repair at the moment, but I am sure the information you provided, will help me complete the task when I do. Got the acetone already. ;>)


Are we talking of the 'vanity ring' at the front.


A technique I have been tipped off to, on this forum, for getting the vanity ring off is to use double sided foam tape. Cut small pieces and place on the forward facing surface of the vanity ring. Then take something the right diameter - either a rear lens cap or a front lens cap, are likely to be the right diameter and lightly press to make the tape stick and then rotate.


This gets enough grip to break the bonds and is pretty safe from slippage leading to possible scratches.


Foam tape is needed for its thickness and also compliance that deals with possible irregularities.
07-24-2014, 12:23 AM   #41
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Tim60, No. I needed to know how to strip down the middle lense assembly in the photo attached to my original post. I couldnt tell if the retainers were threaded or if they were just glued on. Jbondo has kindly provided the information I need to carry out the repair.

But thanks for the tip, I am sure it will be helpful.

This Forum and more importantly its members, are a great source of help and information.
07-24-2014, 02:53 AM   #42
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Sorry for the distraction.
07-26-2014, 05:58 PM   #43
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S Takumar 300/4


I bought a 300/4 S Takumar which was missing the manual/auto switch. (People familiar with the series of lenses will know exactly what that is and is for.) The missing switch left the lens effectively in Auto all the time, which is not helpful on a K mount body. (Cannot close the iris.)


The pin that the plate in the body would hit was intact and would function correctly.


I first tried using sticky tape to hold the pin in, by removing the rear baffle and putting the tape on one then reassembling. Worked for some months and then failed recently.


This time I found a thickish piece of plastic from one of those Ziploc bags. I cut a washer to fit flat between the tube part of the baffle and the outer edge. I then placed this over the pin so that it pulled the pin in with it. This needed a fine screwdriver to punch holes in the plastic to allow the screws to be inserted to hold the baffle in place (3 of them). Just did it. Immediate success. We shall see if this turns out to be a durable solution.
08-01-2014, 04:59 PM   #44
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Here's something to add while I work up my next full guide. It's not a whole procedure but it should be helpful to those who need to see what all the parts look like:
JB Media | Tele-Takumar 5.6 300mm
It also shows something that I've never seen mentioned or documented anywhere else. The Tele-Takumar 1:6.3/300 (at least this one) has a thoriated radioactive element. (labelled in slide 6)
08-02-2014, 12:41 AM   #45
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That looks really useful. Thanks. The detail correction that prompted my original message has been made..


I will need to look in more detail at the construction of the preset diaphragm. My 300 is good but my 200/3.5 has a funny stickiness about the diaphragm that I was just thinking about half an hour ago. I would expect the diaphragm design is probably similar - but if someone knows the contrary, please let me know before I spread bits around.

Last edited by tim60; 08-02-2014 at 01:50 PM.
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