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Pentax Lens Disassembly Database
Posted By: Chaos_Realm, 03-22-2012, 05:04 PM

Hi all,
I have recently been on the hunt for dis-assembly guides for the purpose of dust removal etc. They seem to be turning up in various places across the forum, so I plan on creating a list of all the Pentax lens disassembly posts here. I will categorise each lens like they are in the 'lens database' and you should be able to see which lenses have a guide and which do not. If I come across multiple guides then I will list them all under that lens so there is coverage or alternative explanations. And hopefully with your help we will be able to put together a substantial resource for the DIYer's here, although I do realize some lenses will never have an owner brave enough to strip down themselves due to the shear value. I know this will take quite some time but I think it will be worth it. I have restricted time at this point but I want to get the ball rolling. So here is what we have:

NB: Currently this tread is only for Pentax K-Mount & M42 Screw-mount lenses. Maybe once this has developed a bit I might look at introducing other pentax Mounts and or third party lenses and permitting time (and success of this resource) a cleaning guide with tips on tools and techniques. I am trying not to bite off more than I can chew for the moment so we will just stick with lenses listed below.

Digital Era K-mount Lenses Film Era K-Mount Lenses
M42 Screw Mount Lenses


Last edited by Not a Number; 04-13-2023 at 09:03 PM. Reason: added takumar-bayonet-28mm-f2-8 partial disassembly
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08-02-2014, 04:19 AM   #46
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I have a pair of 200/3.5's waiting on a rebuild. I'll be sure and take photos as soon as I do them.

Tim60
QuoteOriginally posted by tim60 Quote
I think it should be the Tele-Tak 6.3 200mm.
Oops! Thanks for catching my goof. It's actually the 6.3/300. I just updated the description and link to the site.
Corrected: JB Media | Tele-Takumar 6.3 300mm

08-05-2014, 04:03 AM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by jbondo Quote
I have a pair of 200/3.5's waiting on a rebuild. I'll be sure and take photos as soon as I do them.

Tim60
Oops! Thanks for catching my goof. It's actually the 6.3/300. I just updated the description and link to the site.
Corrected: JB Media | Tele-Takumar 6.3 300mm
Cheers mate.

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08-20-2014, 02:55 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by maxence708 Quote
I have an SMC PENTAX 18mm 3.5. The funny version with embedded filters (cloudy, skylight, yello, orange).
There is fungus on every filter coating but not on lens glass.

Can someone direct me in opening it, either to clean the filters foil, or just removing them..

Think i can achieve this from the front but not sure..

(BTW this lens is not listed above)

This particular lens is rather uncommon as far as I am aware. So I am not sure there will be many people that have ventured into pulling this one apart, also given the internal filters it suggests to me that this lens with have a unique construction which will make things more difficult. But if there is someone else out there that does have knowledge of this I hope they chime in.
08-20-2014, 03:27 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by maxence708 Quote
I have an SMC PENTAX 18mm 3.5. The funny version with embedded filters (cloudy, skylight, yello, orange).
There is fungus on every filter coating but not on lens glass.

Can someone direct me in opening it, either to clean the filters foil, or just removing them..

Think i can achieve this from the front but not sure..

(BTW this lens is not listed above)
If you are in the United States I would consider having the lens professionally serviced by Eric Hendrickson.

Home

In the case of mirror lenses that use a filter as a rear element an optical blank (clear glass) is to be used when not using other filters. A filter is part of the optical formula on these lenses. Removing the filters on this lens may affect the optical performance.

08-20-2014, 09:12 AM   #50
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It doesn't matter where the filter is located. If it is part of the optical formula removing it changes the optics and may affect the image. That's why some mirror lens always needed a filter attached even if it was the "blank". The reason most mirror lenses put the filters near the rear is that small diameter filters such as Series V could be used instead of say a 100mm diameter filter on the front.

The term "precision" suggests that these filters are indeed part of the optical formula of the lens.

In essence you would be removing an optical element of the lens.

Enough topic drift. I shall not hijack this thread any further.

Last edited by Not a Number; 08-20-2014 at 09:22 AM.
11-09-2014, 12:44 PM   #51
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Hello,
Any info about 645 A120 macro disassembling? Lens bayonet seems to be loose
11-09-2014, 07:18 PM   #52
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I've been working on a JC Penny 135/2.8. Will get back home in 3 weeks and have another go at it with the help of this thread. Many thanks to all.

11-10-2014, 07:11 AM   #53
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Have a K 50/1.4 with some good fungus, but I cannot (yet) get the front element retaining ring to unscrew ... any advice/suggestions ? J
11-10-2014, 07:59 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jean Poitiers Quote
Have a K 50/1.4 with some good fungus, but I cannot (yet) get the front element retaining ring to unscrew ... any advice/suggestions ? J
Exactly which ring? The one that holds the first lens element in the lens frame?
11-10-2014, 08:13 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by jbondo Quote
Exactly which ring? The one that holds the first lens element in the lens frame?
Yeah, I think so ... I need to go back and look at it again.

Tried to quickly open it. It's blocked/no movement; thus I put it down/back ... before I did something stupid.
11-10-2014, 03:44 PM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jean Poitiers Quote
Yeah, I think so ... I need to go back and look at it again.

Tried to quickly open it. It's blocked/no movement; thus I put it down/back ... before I did something stupid.
If it is the decorative front ring with the name of the lens etc. on it, I've used a walking cane rubber tip/foot (the ones that are concave with concentric circles on the bottom) to unscrew it.
11-10-2014, 06:50 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jean Poitiers Quote
Have a K 50/1.4 with some good fungus, but I cannot (yet) get the front element retaining ring to unscrew ... any advice/suggestions ? J


Alternatively, for the vanity ring, double sided foam sticky tape cut to sit on the vanity ring with a rear lens cap, flat side near the glass, as the wrench tool.
11-15-2014, 07:06 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by tim60 Quote
Alternatively, for the vanity ring, double sided foam sticky tape cut to sit on the vanity ring with a rear lens cap, flat side near the glass, as the wrench tool.
Or just slip a thin disposable rubber glove over the rear lens cap ...
11-15-2014, 08:07 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by asharpe Quote
If it is the decorative front ring with the name of the lens etc. on it, I've used a walking cane rubber tip/foot (the ones that are concave with concentric circles on the bottom) to unscrew it.
OK ... thanks.

---------- Post added 11-16-14 at 04:08 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by tim60 Quote
Alternatively, for the vanity ring, double sided foam sticky tape cut to sit on the vanity ring with a rear lens cap, flat side near the glass, as the wrench tool.
Thank you ... I had seen similar on the video. Will try again. J

---------- Post added 11-16-14 at 04:09 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by kh1234567890 Quote
Or just slip a thin disposable rubber glove over the rear lens cap ...
Good idea ... thanks. J
11-16-2014, 09:42 AM   #60
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Just FYI in that I finally got the ring off by using part of a rubber kitchen glove and a generic M42 end cap. I really had to force hard to get to loosen. The rest of the lens was not easy either and had (still) a hard time accessing the rear element groups.

Anyway, the K 50/1.4 is pretty much fungus free now, but I may have to go back and clean again the rear elements ... they seem still a tiny bit hazed. I was going a bit fast here to finish at the end.

I will test shoot and make a determination later about a second intervention. At least now, all should be much easier to dissemble. J
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