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Aristote | |
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05-03-2020, 12:02 AM | #16 |
Moderator Site Supporter |
Fantastic work! Well done! |
05-17-2020, 10:27 AM | #17 |
Hello! Let it be good to have a sister ! In the range of these cases, he brings back the old style with jewelry to different styles of design. He asked me if he didn't want to go back, he was in the pet store for a moment and he brought something almost similar to that of the Pentax ! I rush on the occasion and I decide to redo the coupling of the box, correctly this time. As you can come to the file, you can finally use a nylon camera, plus speed or speed with all the manipulations. Finally, we have never seen a drop since we never use the internal cells of the hand-held privileged devices. I have a little description to maximize your chances of reusing in this operation, so I am a little thought for Pentax listeners when ... It's an horror ! First, make sure that the two springs are in good condition. Mine had undergone a deformation and so I tinkered with something solid to prevent the chain from disconnecting during exercise. Then, we prepare the ground correctly, ensuring that we have access to all the axis points so that the chain is put in place in the best possible conditions. We start by connecting the chain to the spring, it is enough to consolidate everything to have good support during tension. We will do the same with the index ring on the bayonet to facilitate the task. In fact, I had to try the point-by-point technique first, but once I got to the ring, it became an eyesore to find the right sizing of the lug. Once this step has been completed, we will come to adjust the coupling lug so that it exactly reaches the stop and that there remains tension so that it returns systematically to its place during removal of the objective. We then make sure to connect all the attachment points, then place everything on the axis points. It is the simplest method from my point of view. There was a small problem when reassembling the cover plate. Indeed, this one put back in place, it came to press against the coupling lug and no longer allowed its return to the starting point. So I got a bayonet washer from Canon EOS 3 which is 0.20mm thick, in order to increase the range and avoid this unpleasant friction. Consider finding a good quality chain, because the original one is made of soft metal and is very fragile against impact. As usual some photos in illustration: Next step, lacquering the bottom cover plate and the door, visiting my old school to machine new film drive screws and looking for a new friction spring. I'm not in rush so it might take a little while. | |
05-22-2020, 10:02 AM | #18 |
Very nice insides. I got a Pentax myself with broken chain and ordered some stainless steel chains in compareable sizes. One day I will try this repair myself.
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06-19-2020, 10:30 AM | #19 |
Hello ! To situate the context, a person (Blaise) contacted me via the message box to find out if I could help him repair his case. As a reminder, the view counter of its case no longer worked and its mechanism was eaten away by oxidation and mold. A few days later, the camera, which had become temperamental, jammed and loaded the film while cocking the shutter. Disassembly again and little surprise ... The release cam was eaten to the bone Lack of spare parts, I decided to compromise and remove the cam in order to have the clutch and to allow its use. The counterpart was an armament / loading like the classic SLR. A little disappointed, Blaise tells me that it is a gift from his wife (sentimental value) and that he would like to do it again so that it functions normally. I tell him that it is possible, but that he will have to find a donor unit to replace the defective part. Two clicks on Leboncoin and he finds a No MLU in good cosmetic condition but repaired twice and no longer seems to want to hear anything. He decides to buy it and send it to me to repair his case. Once the work is done, there are a lot of parts available and allow me to puncture the deceased. I know, I know ... I said that I would not cannibalize another camera, but it would have been silly not to exploit it. I am not guilty when I see the state of the gear tray, where the non-return spring was completely worn out by wear. The donor unit is very old and its serial number indicates that it is one of the first 4,000 in production. The deceased So I decide to recover the friction spring, the polycarbonate covers and the lower soles which are in excellent condition. Regarding the friction spring, I compared the two diameters to know if it is the spring or the roller that is missing and the verdict is final: Original spring = 6.62 mm Replacement spring = 6.36mm three tenth of difference for a spring of this ilk is huge ... I understand better why the film was on the spot. We can see an angle of almost 20 ° compared to the first. Disassembly and reassembly of all this little world and bingo! Everything works ! Except that ... I badly synchronized the main gear disassembly and reassembly and there ... Rebelote that stalls: roll: At that time I want to take it put it in a box and put it in in the garbage ! He made me all the breakdowns and I am starting to get more than fed up ... Honestly, I think I have put all my emotions in this box, anger like joy, craze like weariness, but here I start to saturate. So I decide to take a break and go eat a watermelon, to reflect on its fate. After cutting the cucurbits, I start to think about the functioning of the mechanism and it's the click! I make it work in my mind and I now know where to look for the failure! Indeed, the film loads until the first view and then nothing, so I decide to focus on this part of the mechanism: the stabilizer at first sight. Direction the service manual, reading and inspection point by point and I finally find the source of the problem. Over time, the mechanism wears out and takes play and the missing few tenths can cause the beast to fail. When the first view has passed, the rod of the release cam of the take-up reel is positioned above the stabilization cam (green) so that the lug releases from the toothed wheel (purple) and can roll up the film. . The concern on my case is that the wear no longer allowed overlapping so it was necessary to "force" the process by increasing the distance of the cam located on the shutter (red). I rolled up the push roller with a little electrical insulation to allow sufficient pushing. I go back all with anguish in the soul despite everything because, with all its adventures we are never on anything ... Reassembly, lubrication, I insert a film and there the final verdict ... It works finally ! It is finally repaired: bienjoue: I think it made me all the possible failures this guy, but I love him so much! I would like to thank the people who helped me in this little adventure and also apologize for having polluted the 35mm-compact forum with my wanderings, I didn't think it would span 8 pages. Thanks to Sophie and Blaise! Without Sophie no Pentax and without Blaise it would have taken me a lot longer. A big thank you Remy_91 for your precious spring which gave new life to the view counter and the magnificent 645 print! Thank you Steyr for your sublime watchmaking work, you really have an incredible talent! The two screws adapted the first time! I wish you great success in your new project, you deserve it. Thank you PatrickJJ for your precious logistical support and the huge basket of springs! They will be useful to me soon, I feel it. And last but not least, thank you very much Oriu for your altruism and your kindness! Without you, I would never have risked venturing into such a project without a safety net. You have an immense talent and it is really a chance to have you on this forum! PS: I will make CAD files available for 3D printing of caches. Despite the fact that they didn't serve me, maybe they could help other people. I just need to find a platform that can host the files and that's good. The final result : | |
02-24-2021, 02:53 AM | #20 |
I finally launched the modeling of the bottom plate, it wasn't easy on Autocad, but with some tutorials and a lot of patience everything is possible ! I will obviously make the files available for free download, but I must first check if the measures are well suited to the body. Very impressive job! I have 6*7 with MLU, but the shutter curtain did not always open at 1/1000 and 1/500 (most time unopen, few times open). lower shutter speed seems OK. do you know what may be wrong? i already open the camera cover but did not disassemble the mechanics. could you give some advise? Thanks! Jie | |
02-24-2021, 06:32 PM | #21 |
Hi Aristotle, Very impressive job! I have 6*7 with MLU, but the shutter curtain did not always open at 1/1000 and 1/500 (most time unopen, few times open). lower shutter speed seems OK. do you know what may be wrong? i already open the camera cover but did not disassemble the mechanics. could you give some advise? Thanks! Jie Thank you very much ! So for your problem, it can be several things. Either the tension of the curtains is not good and it must be calibrated with a dedicated device, or there is a problem with the rollers of the curtain. The ideal would be to make a complete assessment with cleaning and recalibration of the curtains. We should also see if the electromagnet is correct too. | |
05-19-2021, 08:37 PM | #22 |
How did you remove the film spool retaining locks on the bottom? Trying to remove the bottom right side cover. | |
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1st, axis, cage, cam, chain, curtain, elements, grease, head, mechanism, mind, mm, oil, operation, pentax, pm, post, restoration, screw, screws, service, time, tools, view, wd40, wheel, wire |
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