Hello,
I don't own a K-5 but do own a K-7 and do startrails. If the "wrong" you're referring to are aberrant pixels that show, ie in the 2nd picture (ie to the right of the top of the brightest trail), DFS is the tech you're looking for to remove those (called noise reduction NR in your cam I believe). This is something you need to enable before taking the pic which, as has been explained basically doubles your 'camera in use' time, once for the 100 minute pic and the same again (or maybe slightly less?) for the noise reduction algo to do its thing.
Those pixels are pixels in the sensor that throw a wobbly and get hot because of the long exposure time. When you switch on NR hat the cam is actually doing is taking another pic of the same time of nothing then taking it away from the first pic. As the pic is of nothing (a dark frame) it should theoretically just show up the dodgy pixels and the cam's internal brain takes one away from the other.
Where people like myself are mad at the K-7 is because we don't have a choice, ie you always have to have the camera in use for the double time (pic + NR) in bulb above 30 seconds. There is another way to do stratrails which is adding shorter exposures together. But the K-7's bulb limitation means you can't stitch together 60 second B exposures seamlessly because a 60 seconds actually means 60 seconds exposure then 60 seconds NR so there's a gap during the second 60 seconds.
Not sure if you can do this but try taking an additional bulb pic of nothing without NR with the lens cover on for a few minutes after you've done your 100 minute bulb exposure. That might give you a dark frame that you can use to subtract away from the original image manually (in photoshop or any one of several proggies that can do this for you).
Other things, the diagonal band across the middle looks like maybe some stray light, not wildly surprising for a 100 min exposure. Were you hooded? I've had that in the past on cold nights with condensation on the lens. I'm quite amazed you didn't murder that tree with that exposure time =).
The final image needs a bit more contrast to really show the trails, there are plenty in there though and that's just a bit of PP work. In my experience HDR isn't the best way to get a statrail because it makes the thing looks flat and noisy but hey YMMV
. Also as has rightly been pointed out adjusting the WB might bring things out for you that you can't immediately see.