[Osmo]

Can I take all the stacked pictures with RAW, then modify the first picture with Adobe Camera Raw (in Photoshop CS5, soon CS6), then by some automatic operation

atleast in lightroom it's possible, so quick search in google gives link to adobe help.

Copy and paste Camera Raw settings

In Adobe Bridge, you can copy and paste the Camera Raw settings from one image file to another.

1. In Adobe Bridge, select a file and choose Edit > Develop Settings > Copy Camera Raw Settings.
2. Select one or more files and choose Edit > Develop Settings > Paste Camera Raw Settings.
You can also right-click (Windows) or Control-click (Mac OS) image files to copy and paste using the context menu.
3. In the Paste Camera Raw Settings dialog box, choose which settings to apply.

[Nass]

I shoot in JPG and use that as input. If I had to go RAW, I'd use Bridge (&CS3 RAW Editor) to adjust the first and use bridge to apply the same setting as the first to the rest.

[Sten]

Thank you, Osmo and Nass!

I will try Bridge in the way you describe, because I like to adjust in raw format.

Now, is it it possible to convert a bunch of raw pictures to TIFF format with one operation?

[Nass]

Don't know, never used TIFF sorry =)

[jac]

I use Aperture, Zerene and NIK but imagine the theory remains the same. I shoot almost exclusively in RAW but now tend towards jpeg's for stacking simply from the time factor for in-camera processing of each shot. Most of my stacks are shot outdoors and light can change very quickly - clouds to movement of the sun itself, especially near sunset/sunrise so there is often inconsistency in WB and exposure. Zerenere seems to handle this well but ...
Batch processing can be done at the outset to remove any immediately noticeable imperfections prior to export into Zerene from Aperture as jpeg's. During the Zerene stacking, the dust mote mote that seems insignificant can suddenly become a series of flaws lined-up in the output file. But Zerene handles this problem well also. Find an imagine in the series the does not contain the flaw during re-touch and clear it out. Still, I find it easier to do at the outset. I don't find too much loss this way but that is your choice. You can always shoot RAW plus jpeg, just to be safe. I then import back to Aperture and do most of the final PP in NIk.

[Sten]

I found a program called ReaConverter on the web, and I installed a trial version and tried it.
It seems that it can convert a bunch of RAWs into TIFFs.
Costs $50 for the version I think is appropriate.

[Sten]

I use Aperture, Zerene and NIK but imagine the theory remains the same. I shoot almost exclusively in RAW but now tend towards jpeg's for stacking simply from the time factor for in-camera processing of each shot. Most of my stacks are shot outdoors and light can change very quickly - clouds to movement of the sun itself, especially near sunset/sunrise so there is often inconsistency in WB and exposure. Zerenere seems to handle this well but ...
Batch processing can be done at the outset to remove any immediately noticeable imperfections prior to export into Zerene from Aperture as jpeg's. During the Zerene stacking, the dust mote mote that seems insignificant can suddenly become a series of flaws lined-up in the output file. But Zerene handles this problem well also. Find an imagine in the series the does not contain the flaw during re-touch and clear it out. Still, I find it easier to do at the outset. I don't find too much loss this way but that is your choice. You can always shoot RAW plus jpeg, just to be safe. I then import back to Aperture and do most of the final PP in NIk.

Thank you, Jac! This is interesting. I guess that I have much to learn.

[Sten]

Photoshop CS CS5/CS6 has a standard function that can convert a number of RAW files into TIFF in one operation, like this:
File > Scripts > Image Processor
I was told so in a Swedish Photo forum, I tried it, and it works fine.
I will not need the program Reaconverter.

[pdophoto]

To convert RAW to TIFF in CS5: select photos to convert as a bunch, open in ACR. select all (Top left), save images (lower left) as TIFF and wait for it to happen.

[Ex Finn.]

Just downloaded Zerene couple days ago, running the non pro free trial. Impressed so far, most likely will pay for the license and add this to my sw. arsenal. I do feel bad for freezing the poor spider. 30 or so shots focus stacked in Zerene.

[Sten]

Just downloaded Zerene couple days ago, running the non pro free trial. Impressed so far, most likely will pay for the license and add this to my sw. arsenal. I do feel bad for freezing the poor spider. 30 or so shots focus stacked in Zerene.

A really fine picture, Ex Finn!

[Sten]

To convert RAW to TIFF in CS5: select photos to convert as a bunch, open in ACR. select all (Top left), save images (lower left) as TIFF and wait for it to happen.

Thank you, pdophoto!
I did about the same thing, using the Script function.

[Sten]

Yesterday I emailed Zerene Systems and asked them which file formats to use, and other things.
I wanted to shoot in RAW and work in TIFF.

I got a long, elaborate and clarifying answer from Rik Littlefield, the founder of Zerene. I have it as an email, and I can forward it to anyone who is seriously interested in Zerene.

Shooting in RAW and working in TIFF is fine, and one of the most used work flows.
And as I had found out before, you can adjust the first picture in Adobe Camera RAW and then do the following operations to get the same adjustments in all the other pictures:
1. In Adobe Bridge, select a file and choose Edit > Develop Settings > Copy Camera Raw Settings.
2. Select one or more files and choose Edit > Develop Settings > Paste Camera Raw Settings.
And then it is easy to convert the RAW files into TIFF in Photoshop by:
File > Scripts > Image Processor

Rik L also told me to be a little careful and only put on a little sharpness, noise reduction, and contrast to the input images.

[Sten]

It took some time before I realized how to attach the rail to my tripod, and how I could get the camera well attached to the rail (the screw was perhaps a little too long for my Pentax K-5?).
And the "trigger" cable between the rail and the control unit really needs to be well connected.
But now I seem ready to start trying tomorrow May 1, when it is brighter than this evening.

[jac]

Look forward to the next installment :-)