[Fl_Gulfer]

Does the camera have to be set to RAW RGB to be able to process the images in external software? Like Picturenaut 3 .... I can't seem to get anything to combine the photo's so I must be doing something wrong.

[Na Horuk]

Um.. You can try the in-camera HDR mode, but thats usually not very good.
Otherwise you have to go to M or Av mode, set up bracketing, take the 3 or 5 shots (hold the shutter) and then send them to the software. You should use a tripod btw.
Software can make "HDR" out of multiple jpeg images or out of multiple raw images, the difference is that if you have 3 raw you have much more data to work with than if you have 3 jpeg. But once you take the HDR photo and tonemap it, you will have to save it as jpeg anyway, if you want to distribute it digitally. Or save as .tiff (the file will be huge, 60-200MB) to make prints. Good luck.

Oh, if you want us to pinpoint what you are "doing wrong," you first have to tell us exactly what you are doing. And if you are wondering about the colour space setting, it should be sRGB, because that is the current standard.

[boriscleto]

You can shoot in whatever RGB you want. I shoot in Adobe RGB and convert to sRGB when I export to JPEG.

[Franky2step]

Does the camera have to be set to RAW RGB to be able to process the images in external software? Like Picturenaut 3 .... I can't seem to get anything to combine the photo's so I must be doing something wrong.

What post processing software are you using? i.e. Photomatix, Nik HDR Pro

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Last edited by Franky2step; 01-27-2013 at 03:29 PM. Reason: nonsensical

[Ron Boggs]

No doubt HDR software will get the most customizable results...but if you want to minimize time spent post processing like me, the in-camera HDR can be used quite easily and to good effect. The attached photo was shot with a K-5 set to "one bar" in the HDR menu--lowest setting. The result REQUIRES boosting contrast. In this image, I just used the photo editor in Microsoft Office to boost contrast, slightly lighten midtones, slightly darken highlights and reduce the size for the internet. Sure, I have Lightroom, but just showing you that with 2 minutes of post applied to a photo using in-camera HDR I ended up with a decent image without much fuss.

Took the shot just up the dirt road from my house. Takes about 15 minutes of near-vertical climb to get to the arch. There is so little space to shoot without falling off the cliff that I had to keep my slingbag on my back--nowhere to set it down.

Point here is I shot near home with simple camera settings, used unremarkable software and minimal post processing and still got something OK from it. Try tinkering with the in-camera HDR, you may surprise yourself!

[Ron Boggs]

Just checked the exif data and had forgotten to mention that the in-camera HDR overexposes terribly so this shot was taken at -1.3 exposure compensation. The same view without HDR would shoot at either straight up exposure metering or perhaps +.3 due to the light gray limestone and the light sky.

[Rondec]

I am afraid that I am not familiar with the software you are using. I use Photomatix, which has a Lightroom plug in. Basically it will convert my DNG files to TIFF files which it then uses for the HDR and tone mapping conversion. I don't know if Picturenaut 3 will use DNGs directly, or if you need to use jpegs or some other developed file.

[Fl_Gulfer]

Is there a place the shows a step by step way to set up the K-5 to shoot HDR or Bracketing I should say?

[boriscleto]

Is there a place the shows a step by step way to set up the K-5 to shoot HDR or Bracketing I should say?

Page 157 of the Manual...

[Rondec]

The easiest way is to set your RAW button to multiple exposures. Then, you hit that button and it puts the camera into exposure bracketing mode.