[PPPPPP42]

The title pretty much sums it up. Yeah I know I tend to operate a bit behind the curve.
I bought my K20D used when they were around $425 body only for a used one with no issues and a reasonably low shutter count.
The K-5 (original version) has finally fallen that far (though many don't seem to realize that) thanks to the K-3's release and K-5 II clearance sales, and this just happens to be a 3 paycheck month. For those folks that are salaried and don't understand how us peasants live that would be when the biweekly payday happens 3 times in one month which happens fairly rarely (3 Fridays this January) and it basically gives you a free paycheck where monthly expenses are concerned.

Anyways, I love the K20D but even its mid ISO performance (400-800) is pretty bad by my standards, if I want grain I will shoot film (which I do and love). I know the K-5 steps on most anything else for high ISO but I am hoping to see a large difference in low to mid ISO as well. I find even with fast lenses to be able to use most of the apertures for a variety of depth of field I shoot on ISO 400 a whole lot more than I care for.
I think the viewfinder in the K-5 is bigger as well which will be nice as I am used to FF viewfinders so anything helps.

You can see from my lens list in my signature that I don't really care about AF performance (though I read the K-5 is way better than the K20D anyways). So that made the K-5 II an unnecessary expense, and the K-3 is so far out of my price range its not on the list even on sale.

I don't expect to actually regret having a K-5 by any means (until the release button falls off ), but the question is going from a K20D to a K-5 right now since there are many used lenses I would also like for that money.

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Last edited by PPPPPP42; 01-03-2014 at 03:14 PM.

[boriscleto]

Flickr: The Pentax K-5 / K-5 II / K-5 IIs Photographers Pool

PENTAX : Select a PENTAX interchangeable lens camera or a lens model

[Sandy Hancock]

Smaller, more megapixels, much better high ISO performance, bigger LCD (I think)....
Does the K20D do ISO 80?

[Julie]

An upgrade from the K20d to the K-5 is worth every penny.
The K20d was and still is a good camera, but the K-5 is noticeably better all around and has more bells and whistles than the K20d.

You won't look back or regret your upgrade.

(or here's another idea- a new or used K-30. Focus peaking is amazing for manual lenses in live view mode. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the K-5 lacks this feature...)

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Last edited by Julie; 01-03-2014 at 03:14 PM.

[boriscleto]

(or here's another idea- a new or used K-30. Focus peaking is amazing for manual lenses in live view mode. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the K-5 lacks this feature...)

Focus peaking was beyond the abilities of the processor in the K-5/II/IIs.

[interested_observer]

I think that you will find a lot to like about the K5. The ISO 80 along with the better dynamic range is great. ISO 400-800 is easy and you can just keep going up. LiveView is much better, along with the levels (especially when on a tripod). The other thing for me is that the external shutter release connection is on the right hand side now, so its much easier to use with an L bracket (as mine just stays attached all the time)

There are a couple items I do miss with the K20 though. The SD cards were much easier to extract, and the K20 had a dedicated switch for SR on/off. The mode dial on the top I liked with the K20 better.

All in all its a great upgrade and the prices at this point are excellent for the capabilities.

[PPPPPP42]

Thanks to my film camera origins I'm a big viewfinder person so focus peaking and live view and whatnot aren't really necessary for me either.
Actually I never take the camera off M or turn on shake reduction either.

Anyways you guys gave me the last little push I needed and I just picked up a K-5 from another board member for $390 shipped. It had a tad higher shutter count than I wanted at just under 19,750 according to the ad, but with so many reports of 40 and 50k from people here being average at this age and many reports of over 100k being normal for this camera I figured that was acceptable.
The serial number was in the 402 range so I think I am pretty safe issue wise if nothing showed up in almost 20k shots and the lens button is still attached.

EDIT:
Yeah, I forgot to mention better dynamic range, as a film user that is HUGE for me as I am used to better than what digital normally allows in a single unedited shot (film highlight compression and all).
I never take the SD card out, don't shoot enough to fill one before I unload it. And where did the SR button on the K5 go if it is not there anymore? Menu?

Also I am thinking rather than a Katzeye like my K20D I will go with this instead (type S with grid):
http://www.focusingscreen.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_113&products_id=1160
based on the recommendation in another old thread in this forum. Mainly because I find myself often using the improved ground glass rather than the focusing aids, and I would like to have my spot meter reliable again which it really isn't with the Katzeye split prism I have now. I also have found with the small viewfinder the grid lines are super helpful as I am always getting things crooked, but I don't need all the other marks they have available.
Any opinions on that choice?

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Last edited by PPPPPP42; 01-03-2014 at 06:40 PM.

[dms]

I have focusing screen (type K I think) with grid lines (on a K20d), and the lines are not very dark and disappear w/ fast lenses (maybe above f/2.8). I gather it may be the same on the screen you are considering. (The older Nikon type E screen was ideal!)

[Canada_Rockies]

I'm a user of matte with grid lines. I have one in my SF-1, I have one in my MZ-S and I have an LL-60 one in my K10D. The first and second accessories for the K-3 when I win the lottery will be a matte grid focusing screen and a wired remote.

[normhead]

After upgrading from a K20D to a K-5 within a few months we had him and hers K-5s and the K20D went to live with my sister. There's just no comparison.

[stormtech]

And where did the SR button on the K5 go if it is not there anymore? Menu?

When I upgraded from my K20D to the K-5, I think the thing I missed the most was the dedicated SR switch. But after a little use it became second nature to do it the K-5 way now. While the SR toggle is now a menu item, it is quickly and easily accessed using the info button. When in normal shooting/display mode, you hit the info button once which gives you a quick access to a few frequently used menu items. Once you have SR highlighted, it just a matter of one click of the rear dial.

I also wanted to comment about that extra paycheck you mentioned in your original post. When I was working I was paid bimonthly. Twice a year I would get 3 paychecks instead of the normal 2 and they were usually spread out by about 6 months. I always had those months mapped out as that was my "play" money when they came around also.

[zekewhipper]

I'm like you, I waited for a couple of generations of successors to the K20D to come out before buying a new body, and then only after the successor to the first K-5 came out to cause a big price drop. I am so glad I did.

[PPPPPP42]

Umm, OK for anyone else wondering if the upgrade was worth it, the difference is unbefreakinglieveable (hmm spell check doesn't like that word for some reason).

I can tell in 5 minutes that the K5 is worlds better, I swear 3200 ISO looks like 400 ISO on my K20D, that alone would have sold me.
The images are SO much sharper and the lighting and white balance is WAY better.

Best part is, I ordered the K5 for $390 shipped from another board member, a Pentax FA 80-320 off ebay for $28.91 shipped (a steal) and the Pentax screw on lens hood specifically for that lens (not a bayonet type on that one) from KEH and all three showed up on top of each other today which is way earlier than expected.

I do have to get used to a few quirks though, the menus and buttons are all mixed up on me now, many things behave differently programming wise in modes, and I keep trying to bust the mode dial off because I am not used to the release button in the middle of it yet (a really good idea btw).

And this supposedly cheapy lens is actually really good btw, worlds better than the Tamron 70-300 it just replaced.

I find it interesting that I can hand hold an 80-320 lens indoors in crummy light without the flash and get excellent pics.

EDIT: biggest difference in programming is how A (green) mode is handled. I didn't use it much before, now I wont use it at all since they block critical stuff like turning shake reduction off. Exactly how do they expect me to use shake reduction on a wide range manual zoom? I don't like the compromise focal length option. This will be the first camera where I actually use P when I am in a hurry it looks like. Mostly I use M.

[boriscleto]

EDIT: biggest difference in programming is how A (green) mode is handled. I didn't use it much before, now I wont use it at all since they block critical stuff like turning shake reduction off. Exactly how do they expect me to use shake reduction on a wide range manual zoom? I don't like the compromise focal length option. This will be the first camera where I actually use P when I am in a hurry it looks like. Mostly I use M.

You can turn shake reduction off in a couple of clicks. Hit info, the control panel will come up, use the 4-way to select SR, then use the e-dial to turn SR off. Of course green mode is supposed to be an 'idiot' mode so they disable all the menus...

[mholford]

Umm, OK for anyone else wondering if the upgrade was worth it, the difference is unbefreakinglieveable (hmm spell check doesn't like that word for some reason).

I can tell in 5 minutes that the K5 is worlds better, I swear 3200 ISO looks like 400 ISO on my K20D, that alone would have sold me.
The images are SO much sharper and the lighting and white balance is WAY better.

Best part is, I ordered the K5 for $390 shipped from another board member, a Pentax FA 80-320 off ebay for $28.91 shipped (a steal) and the Pentax screw on lens hood specifically for that lens (not a bayonet type on that one) from KEH and all three showed up on top of each other today which is way earlier than expected.

I do have to get used to a few quirks though, the menus and buttons are all mixed up on me now, many things behave differently programming wise in modes, and I keep trying to bust the mode dial off because I am not used to the release button in the middle of it yet (a really good idea btw).

And this supposedly cheapy lens is actually really good btw, worlds better than the Tamron 70-300 it just replaced.

I find it interesting that I can hand hold an 80-320 lens indoors in crummy light without the flash and get excellent pics.

EDIT: biggest difference in programming is how A (green) mode is handled. I didn't use it much before, now I wont use it at all since they block critical stuff like turning shake reduction off. Exactly how do they expect me to use shake reduction on a wide range manual zoom? I don't like the compromise focal length option. This will be the first camera where I actually use P when I am in a hurry it looks like. Mostly I use M.

I made the same jump as you did - at pretty much the same time. As soon as a used K5 was available for $400 US (11K shutter actuations) I was all-in. I love my K20D, but the K5 can run laps around it in low light situations. And as you mentioned, ISO3200 produces very decent images, similar to ISO 400 or 800 on the K20D.