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10-31-2021, 01:06 AM   #1
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K-5 AF soft?

Picked up a secondhand K-5, and will be getting a second, for a few Stereoscopic photoshoots...

And from a K-01 owner, the ergonomics,.....

But, on my first proper photoshoot with it - a model perched on the rocks above a waterfall - I'm noting the shots I used my KM 200mm and KA 135mm focused by hand are as sharp as I'd expect, compared to those lenses on my K-01's, yet the shots done AF with an FA* 28-70 f2.8 seem like the AF reports the subject is in focus, and looks in focus in OVF and Live View, but when the shot is taken, it looks like focus is a little short.

Distance to subject was more then 20meters - standing her feet were cropped on the 200mm.

So my questions become, Are there any known focus issues I need to be aware of? And, is there a 'best guide' to adjusting the camera to match the lenses?

10-31-2021, 01:21 AM   #2
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Initially, I would say that maybe it needs some AF Fine Adjustment dialled in. However, if it is focus in Live View, it must be in focus!

Have you tried manual focussing the offending lens, just to make sure? Also, what aperture were you using?
10-31-2021, 02:11 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
Picked up a secondhand K-5, and will be getting a second, for a few Stereoscopic photoshoots...

And from a K-01 owner, the ergonomics,.....

But, on my first proper photoshoot with it - a model perched on the rocks above a waterfall - I'm noting the shots I used my KM 200mm and KA 135mm focused by hand are as sharp as I'd expect, compared to those lenses on my K-01's, yet the shots done AF with an FA* 28-70 f2.8 seem like the AF reports the subject is in focus, and looks in focus in OVF and Live View, but when the shot is taken, it looks like focus is a little short.

Distance to subject was more then 20meters - standing her feet were cropped on the 200mm.

So my questions become, Are there any known focus issues I need to be aware of? And, is there a 'best guide' to adjusting the camera to match the lenses?
Please post an image with EXIF data intact. That may help to find the cause.
10-31-2021, 02:18 AM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
Picked up a secondhand K-5, and will be getting a second, for a few Stereoscopic photoshoots...

And from a K-01 owner, the ergonomics,.....

But, on my first proper photoshoot with it - a model perched on the rocks above a waterfall - I'm noting the shots I used my KM 200mm and KA 135mm focused by hand are as sharp as I'd expect, compared to those lenses on my K-01's, yet the shots done AF with an FA* 28-70 f2.8 seem like the AF reports the subject is in focus, and looks in focus in OVF and Live View, but when the shot is taken, it looks like focus is a little short.

Distance to subject was more then 20meters - standing her feet were cropped on the 200mm.

So my questions become, Are there any known focus issues I need to be aware of? And, is there a 'best guide' to adjusting the camera to match the lenses?
You best do the calibration, PDR! You'll need to choose a focal length.

10-31-2021, 02:45 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
Picked up a secondhand K-5, and will be getting a second, for a few Stereoscopic photoshoots...
And from a K-01 owner, the ergonomics,.....
So my questions become, Are there any known focus issues I need to be aware of? And, is there a 'best guide' to adjusting the camera to match the lenses?


The K-5's ergonomics … I never really appreciated them 'till I "upgraded" from my KP to the K-3iii. The K-5 gets a lot more use now

For stereo shots, you might be able to use your K-01. I seem to remember they use the same sensor, they certainly take the same-size images?

For a "quick guide to a/f fine adjustment" … see How to optimize focusing accuracy with large-aperture lenses / explore | RICOH IMAGING … other pages are available
I've got one lens that was always "a bit soft" on the K-5, I'd always put it down to part of the trade-off for buying a 3rd party super-zoom.
Having gone to the effort of conducting the a/f fine adjustments test and giving the K-5 a good "kick in the menus", it's now a very serviceable second (3rd … 4th) camera.
Enjoy
10-31-2021, 02:50 AM - 1 Like   #6
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Shoot was pre-dawn to just after dawn, I went Aperture Priority and was mostly wide open, so I expected a little softness, but not short-focus.

AF Fine Adjustment - now I know what's it's called, I can experiment! - there's more then a few things that were deleted on the K-01, gotta learn 'em.
10-31-2021, 03:13 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
- there's more then a few things that were deleted on the K-01, gotta learn 'em.


The K-01 has Auto ISO available in Manual Mode … it's referred to in the manual as TAv but it's not on the Mode Dial as such.
This capability is featured on the Mode Dial on the K-5, but is not available in Manual Mode … how to make a "selling point" from a pre-existing feature

10-31-2021, 04:21 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
Picked up a secondhand K-5, and will be getting a second, for a few Stereoscopic photoshoots...

And from a K-01 owner, the ergonomics,.....

But, on my first proper photoshoot with it - a model perched on the rocks above a waterfall - I'm noting the shots I used my KM 200mm and KA 135mm focused by hand are as sharp as I'd expect, compared to those lenses on my K-01's, yet the shots done AF with an FA* 28-70 f2.8 seem like the AF reports the subject is in focus, and looks in focus in OVF and Live View, but when the shot is taken, it looks like focus is a little short.

Distance to subject was more then 20meters - standing her feet were cropped on the 200mm.

So my questions become, Are there any known focus issues I need to be aware of? And, is there a 'best guide' to adjusting the camera to match the lenses?
Proud owner of K-01 as well, but manual focusing with this camera is extremely difficult. Your soft images with it are due to holding the camera not steady enough. With AF the pictures are always brilliant, amazingly sharp with the K-01. And it has hidden treasures such as TAv. The FA* you used should give sharp pictures when used in Live view. Have you set it to the appropriate AF method in live view?
10-31-2021, 04:34 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote

For stereo shots, you might be able to use your K-01. I seem to remember they use the same sensor, they certainly take the same-size images?
Nah, firing the shutters at the same time is virtually impossible.

With the K-5, I can hook them together, or hook them up to a y-cable and a remote. My model for that shoot will be in motion, so I really want to set two bodies with identical lenses to the same focus point, then have the primary in Catch-in-focus, and it'll fire the secondary,.. just depends on how well the flashes will freeze her motion, and whether C.i.F. will work from wired remote.

---------- Post added 31-10-21 at 10:35 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
For a "quick guide to a/f fine adjustment" … see How to optimize focusing accuracy with large-aperture lenses / explore | RICOH IMAGING … other pages are available
Perfect, exactly what I needed

---------- Post added 31-10-21 at 10:38 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by AfterPentax Mark II Quote
Proud owner of K-01 as well, but manual focusing with this camera is extremely difficult. Your soft images with it are due to holding the camera not steady enough. With AF the pictures are always brilliant, amazingly sharp with the K-01. And it has hidden treasures such as TAv. The FA* you used should give sharp pictures when used in Live view. Have you set it to the appropriate AF method in live view?
Never ever had manual focus issues on K-01, but I'm a Cinematographer, so working off the LCD is second nature for me.

And, the issue I'm having is on the K-5 anyway.
10-31-2021, 05:06 AM   #10
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1) known k-5 issues with autofocus are related to artificial light (not flash however).

2) af fine focus has no effect on shots made in liveview. The adjustment only affects shots made via the viewfinder.

3) If af fine adjustment is needed remember each lens on each body needs adjustment. Also zooms can be annoying as they may require different adjustment at different focal lengths (and distances sometimes) but the camera can only learn a single adjustment per lens.

4) try swapping the lenses back and forth to find which lens works better on which body.

5) If you are already happy with the k-01 is it incapable of dual triggering? If not get a second one.
10-31-2021, 12:31 PM - 1 Like   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
5) If you are already happy with the k-01 is it incapable of dual triggering? If not get a second one.
As far as I know, the only way to remotely trigger a K-01 is via an IR remote. I looked into getting one of these (the K-01) for making time-lapse movies using an external intervalometer, but you can't do it!!

Ah, but now I see it has a built-in intervalometer - hadn't noticed that before - maybe I DO need one!

Last edited by AstroDave; 10-31-2021 at 12:36 PM. Reason: add intervalometer realization
10-31-2021, 02:36 PM - 1 Like   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
As far as I know, the only way to remotely trigger a K-01 is via an IR remote.

Not only that, but the i/r receiver on the K-01 is only on the front, so to control it from behind you'll need to rig a little mirror or similar to reflect the beam.
I tried to arranged something similar for my K-70, but it wasn't totally successful, so I reverted to my K-5 for that particular exercise
11-03-2021, 04:29 AM   #13
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You lot are reading, but not comprehending, forget about the K-01, it will not be used for the shoots I have planned.

Right, so the K-5 can have the lens profile stored, but it's a limited data set per lens. So I need to do it with the lenses I plan on using, and it'll be better off if I stick to using my primes, rather then a zoom.
11-03-2021, 05:52 AM - 1 Like   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by PiDicus Rex Quote
Right, so the K-5 can have the lens profile stored, but it's a limited data set per lens. So I need to do it with the lenses I plan on using, and it'll be better off if I stick to using my primes, rather then a zoom.
Yes. You accurately summed it up. I would also suggest using both primes on both bodies to see if a combination of lens and body is better than the other - then label them!
11-08-2021, 08:45 AM   #15
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Picking up the second K-5 in the next week, I have had a pair of KM 50 f2's forever, the first K-5 came with a KM 50 f1.4, which matches the one of those I've had for a few years.


Aside : I ended up with a KM 50 f1.7 ages ago, and recently picked up a disassembled 50 f1.2 (yeah, 'that' one) at a bargain price - looks like someone was converting it to click-less and messed up, needs a replacement front element securing ring,.. or maybe 3D print an 'exploded view' display mount.

So, identical bodies, identical lenses, built a stereo rig ages ago, next comes seeing if the Catch-in-Focus will work using a wired remote, and whether I need to y-split the remote to both bodies, or use two remotes, or whether the primary body can fire the secondary with a PC-sync to Remote cable, which I've already confirmed works between a K-5 and an IstD, and if the latter, do they fire at close enough timing to have the flashes freeze the models motion.


Then it's just mini-trampoline for her to launch off, mattresses to land on, Robot make-up, Motoko wig, Australian Research & Space Exploration tee-shirt for costume ( https://spaceaustralia.com.au/products/launch-tee-white-1 ) and a whole lot of patience and timing, plus models fee, MUA's fee, Studio fee,....
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