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06-11-2011, 03:25 PM - 1 Like   #106
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I haven't got a k-5, and I don't shoot sport much.

However, I've shot racing cars with a manual focus Praktica and got sharp results, so based on that:

Don't rely on AF - until it's instant, nothing can compete with your intuition about where the action will be. Racing cars are easy, because they take the same line (roughly) every lap - team sports are more tricky. You might want to try and us MF to pre-focus on a spot you know the action will be - perhaps the point at which the diver will enter the water, or the end of the board. With practice you can get very good at following focus - and I guess with diving there isn't much range - they drop pretty much straight down so the range of focus isn't as much as it might be at football, for example.

I'd use AF-C and centre point - I've used auto, but you can guarantee that it'll pick the wrong thing when it really matters. With fast moving things I like to have that degree of control, and you can always crop later. I guess this is the issue you've been having with your diver - the auto select is selecting other things? You might want to try panning with the diver, keeping the centre point on him/her.

I guess with fast moving sport you might as well have SR off unless you have a massive lens - you should be using a fast enough shutter speed not to need it, and it's one less thing for the processor and battery to deal with.

Using a smaller aperture makes it a tad easier for the AF because you get more depth of field, so focus errors are not as critical, but f10 is 2.5 stops slower than f4, so you'll either have to use a shutter speed 2.5 stops slower (more blur) or a sensitivity 2.5 stops higher (more noise) - nothing is free; you'll have to make a judgement call on how you compromise there.

As ever, the best advice is to take lots of pictures, then take even more. When you get home critically review them and work out what you did in the ones you like and what you did in the ones you don't like - then do more of the former and less of the latter. Digital makes this so much more enjoyable than film; taking lots of photos that were going to cost you money to develop and print, knowing a lot would be OOF was no fun at all!

06-11-2011, 04:12 PM   #107
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Diving is extremely fast moving but uterly predictable in terms of where the action is. For that I'd prefocus to where the diver would be, then switch to mf, wait for the diver to dive then machine gun away. You,d prob use M mode, I'd imagine you'd want 1/1000 at a minimum light permitting.

QuoteOriginally posted by spineguy Quote
Question for all you experienced... For Outside, high speed sports - What setting are you using?

AF-C (I assume)
auto (11 points) or single?
shake reduction?
focus or release priority?

Im using the 60-250 lens at f/4

taking some diving pictures but tracking my diver and Im getting a lot of OOF (something else) than my diver. Cant seem to track.

just wondering what settings would give me the best chance? Might even be moving the f/4 to f/10? Be nice, Im just starting in this!


06-12-2011, 03:25 AM   #108
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If you want to shoot diving then as Twitch pointed out it will be pretty easy due to the fact that the action will take place at a predefined spot, just in front of that diving plank. So I would use the method Twitch has outlined, prefocus on that spot then set the AF to manual.
If you are shooting outside in good light you could use M or very handy TAv mode. Just select a high shutter speed (1/1000-1/1500), set aperture of that 60-250 to F4-F5.6 and set Auto-ISO to 100-1600. Set shooting mode to highesht mode ( 7 FPS) and start machine gunning as soon as the diver jumps of that plank.
Happy hunting.
06-12-2011, 05:52 AM   #109
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thanks everyone!!

i also changed the focus priority because the camera would not fire rapid because it was waiting for focus..

will try the manual focus idea tomorrow for the dive meet (it is outside in very bright light btw)

06-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #110
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Hey guys, do you think that K-5 would be enough to give some good results on Formula F1? I kind of want to get some nice results in some sports aspect
06-12-2011, 04:27 PM   #111
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QuoteOriginally posted by Hefa Quote
Hey guys, do you think that K-5 would be enough to give some good results on Formula F1? I kind of want to get some nice results in some sports aspect
You get me a Pit pass and I'll take my K5 for a test.....chances will do just fine. I shoot motorsports and have no problems with the K5.
06-13-2011, 02:51 AM   #112
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Hey guys, do you think that K-5 would be enough to give some good results on Formula F1?
The K5 will be more than enough to get good results on F1 races. However due to the very high speed of those F1 cars you will need plenty of experience with panning technique to get those results.
06-13-2011, 02:53 AM   #113
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Technique is more important than camera at an F1 race, even a K-x is sufficient.

06-14-2011, 01:40 AM   #114
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Panning yes but what if the car is coming right at you, and the af will have to track it when approaching me?
06-14-2011, 01:48 AM   #115
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I doubt if even the best Canikons would be able to track an F1 car which is coming right at the camera at a speed of 200mph/300kmh.
I have seen some AF tests with an EOS 1d shooting athlete running straight at the camera and even under those circumstances not every shot was spot on.
06-14-2011, 03:34 AM   #116
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I'm seriously thinking of upgrading soon from a K20D + DA 55-300/F4-5.8 to a K-5 + DA* 60-250/F4.

I've shot a lot of daytime U7, U8 and now U9 (first year on full-sized fields) soccer. I'm really looking for better performance. On Saturday I shot my son's team in a full day (5 games) championship from 9am to after 4pm and it was a bleak, overcast day (luckily it did not rain).

In sunny conditions (LV 14.5-15.3) I like to shoot:
1/800s (would prefer 1/1000s)
F6.3-7.1 to get enough DOF at 300mm FL to cover more members of a group, while also getting a little better border resolution
in TAv with AutoISO between ISO100-1600.

Due to the bleak lighting situation on Saturday (LV 12.3), I started out with:
F5.6-F5.8 (depending on FL)

But towards the end of the day the lighting was getting weaker (LV 8.3-9.3) and for the last game I pushed it more that was acceptable:

I hate the K20D above ISO1600. I don't like it from at ISO640 up, particularly when I have to dodge shadowed players.

So here are my questions:

1. How is the AF.C performance (speed & accuracy) of the new camera/lens combo compared to the old one?

2. Does AF.C on the K-5 show any tracking ability at all? I get a lot of shots where the auto-focus point is between 2 players, i.e. the background, so the players themselves are OOF. Using centre-point AF wouldn't help unless I can be sure of getting one of the players in the centre at some stage and then locking focus on them with AF decoupled from the shutter release button.

3. Is ISO3200 acceptable on this camera (+1 stop over the K20D or +2 stops if I also shoot fully open at f/4)?

4. How well does the K-5 respond to PP dodging of raw files in the ISO800-2000 range?

5. I shoot on a tripod to reduce the amount of levelling in PP, but I bump the tripod enough to still require some levelling in PP. Is it feasible to use the K-5's levelling in action photography or does it slow down the performance too much?

About 5 times on Saturday I had very long delays where I'd filled the K20D's 13-14 shot raw buffer with 2.9 fps bursts because I thought interesting stuff was about to occur. Even though the K-5's buffer is deeper, I'm sure it will be easy to fill this up in the exciting moments.

The 250mm max. FL will be a disadvantage compared to the 300mm FL on full-sized fields, but I'm hoping that the more expensive lens and the slightly higher MP in the K-5 compared to the K20D will stand up better to cropping.

I'm noticing CA at 300mm more now too, requiring PP fixing in SilkyPix Pro 4.

The cost of a official-distributor-supported K-5 + DA* 60-250/F4 in Australia from Digital Camera Warehouse (rather than gray market import) is AUD $1569 (body only) + $1369 (lens), but I think I'd go for the body/lens package that includes a Sigma 17-70/F2.8-4.5 for $1799, as well as the Pentax zoom. I have a 16-45/F4 on the K20D, but I'm hoping the Sigma may be a little better. I can't really see the DA* 300/F4, for AUD $1399, being flexible enough for this application

So what have upgraders' experiences been?


Last edited by dosdan; 06-14-2011 at 04:40 AM.
06-14-2011, 04:08 AM   #117
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To Dosdan's questions:

I shoot my kids sports for fun and have not been doing it that long. I use the 50-135 and had upgraded to the K5. The lens is not long but for soccer I stand closer to one side and take most of my shot where the action is on the opponents goal.

-High ISO shooting is a joy. I can use upto ISO 3200 and sometimes 6400. I use the high ISO shooting in basketball and at dances.
-Cropping is my friend. K5 makes it more possible. It retains good quality for my needs.
-AF-C is ok but not great. But this maybe technique.
-I uprgraded from a K2000 camera so this may not be relevant but getting shadows cleared out in PP is easier and cleaner than my old camera. Well it was really hard on the old camera so I did not bother to try.

-The K5 freezes with high speed shooting on AF-C. This is my second k5 and both had the same problem. Others have noticed this too on this forum. Not often enough to want me to return it. But if I were shooting professionally it would bother me. When it happens I have to take the battery out and put in back in and it is back to working.

I think the lens is going to be a big deal. If I were willing to carry a heavy lens, I would have opted for a long f2.8 lens myself. But I am not willing to carry anything larger than the 50-135 and have learned to live with it.

I dont think the level function was meant for high speed shooting situations. I think it is meant for landscape shooters.
06-14-2011, 04:28 AM   #118
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QuoteOriginally posted by Hefa Quote
Panning yes but what if the car is coming right at you, and the af will have to track it when approaching me?
Get the hell outta the way as fast as you can !

06-14-2011, 04:35 AM   #119
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The Sigma 17-70 is not that great, I have one and dont use it

So...... want to buy mine? Seriously, want to swap for your Pentax 16-45?
06-14-2011, 05:16 AM   #120
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To answer Dosdan's questions : The K5 + 60-250 F4 will be an excellent combo to shoot soccer.
I did a shoot of little kids, team F7 which I think is U8 for you, playing soccer last month and used K5 + Sigma 70-200 F2.8, see here
That combo is very popular on the dutch forum for sports. Here some from an fellow pentaxian
De eerste met de K5
If you are walking by and down the lines the 60-250 will cover plenty of that full field.
1-2 : The K5 is the first Pentax camera on which I have been using the AF-C and get good results. You could use AF-central or use the AF 5 point
3-4 : I have set Auto ISO on K5 to 100-6400 range. For indoor sports I even go upto 10000 ISO. The K5 high ISO capabilities is excellent and you will hardly need noise reduction upto 6400 ISO
5 : I don't use tripod for sports. I shoot handheld or use monopod. Forget about leveling, you're can easy adjust horizon afterwards in post processing
Get the fastest SD cards you can get for the 7 FPS the K5. I use Sandisk Extreme III cards
The 16 MP sensor in combination with the 60-250 will give you more than pixels for cropping.
Good luck and lots of suc6 shooting your kids.

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