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08-25-2013, 07:34 AM   #1471
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QuoteOriginally posted by Uluru Quote
K-mount camera don't have sophisticated AF tracking and technologies needed to cope with extreme movement of European and South American football.
It depends. Position yourself right around the field and it is perfectly doable. No need for sophisticated AF-C tracking around the goal mouth, penalty corner, from the rear of the field behind the goal as players run forwards towards you. Etc. You make it sound as if getting the shots simply depends on using a camera with the right 'brute force' technology, meaning even inexperienced users could successfully shoot demanding sports with Canon or Nikon. That's certainly not the case.

Anyway, there was that German magazine AF test series that showed the K-5 outperforming the 7D tracking a moving object, for example, so one shouldn't just assume Pentax is hopeless here.

08-25-2013, 01:22 PM   #1472
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Experimenting......is this too much PP for sports?





08-25-2013, 01:33 PM   #1473
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NIce action but too much in my opinion. Try these... Lightroom Presets – Game Day Presets for Sports Photography | Matt Kloskowski I run two sets of images for my customer. One without the preset just running it through perfectly clear and then a second run through using medium or heavy. Saw my sales double the first two weekend I started using them.
08-25-2013, 01:48 PM   #1474
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QuoteOriginally posted by mflagg Quote
NIce action but too much in my opinion. Try these... Lightroom Presets Game Day Presets for Sports Photography | Matt Kloskowski I run two sets of images for my customer. One without the preset just running it through perfectly clear and then a second run through using medium or heavy. Saw my sales double the first two weekend I started using them.
Awesome. I'll give these a try.

Thank you mflagg

08-25-2013, 03:49 PM   #1475
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sage97 Quote
Experimenting......is this too much PP for sports?
Yes, unnaturally saturated and over-sharp in my opinion.

Unfortunately a lot of people expect over-saturated colours, because that's what the TRC (tone response curve) in many P&S cameras and low-end commercial printing processing produces.

The sharpness is approaching the "cardboard cut-out" stage, where each subject in the image appears to exist on a separate plane. I think the goal with sharpening of digital images is to get sufficient sharpness without over-separation. I think a Smart Sharpen is better for digital photos. With it you apply higher sharpening inside the subjects, but leave the the outside edges alone. You can then apply a lower amount of sharpening to get the desired edge sharpness with Unsharp sharpening. Regarding Smart Sharpening, I use a script in PSP x4 to emulate this, but PS/LR has this built in.

Dan.
08-25-2013, 08:00 PM   #1476
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
Yes, unnaturally saturated and over-sharp in my opinion.

Unfortunately a lot of people expect over-saturated colours, because that's what the TRC (tone response curve) in many P&S cameras and low-end commercial printing processing produces.

The sharpness is approaching the "cardboard cut-out" stage, where each subject in the image appears to exist on a separate plane. I think the goal with sharpening of digital images is to get sufficient sharpness without over-separation. I think a Smart Sharpen is better for digital photos. With it you apply higher sharpening inside the subjects, but leave the the outside edges alone. You can then apply a lower amount of sharpening to get the desired edge sharpness with Unsharp sharpening. Regarding Smart Sharpening, I use a script in PSP x4 to emulate this, but PS/LR has this built in.

Dan.
Thank you dosdan. Really appreciate your feedback and suggestions.
08-25-2013, 09:25 PM   #1477
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Regular PP.









Last edited by Sage97; 08-25-2013 at 09:45 PM.
08-26-2013, 12:17 AM   #1478
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sage97 Quote
Regular PP
Here I'd suggest dodging to brighten the front and faces of the players which are shadowed somewhat. The trick is to get the right amount without it looking artificial. Let's see what others think about whether the front-of-player shadowing of the last 3 shots should be lightened.

I use a 15%-50% setting of the global dodging control in SilkyPix Pro for most soccer & athletics for this reason. While the image file should be OK, trying to present the shadowed front of a player in bright sunshine within the limited DR range of a computer monitor at least, is frustrating without some shadow boosting. Here's an example of dodging. (Unfortunately it's not the soccer example I wished to use, but can't find.)

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-5/170306-dull-colors-pentax-k-5-a.html#post1764454

Dan.


Last edited by dosdan; 08-27-2013 at 12:40 PM.
08-26-2013, 03:58 AM   #1479
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
Yes, unnaturally saturated and over-sharp in my opinion.

Unfortunately a lot of people expect over-saturated colours, because that's what the TRC (tone response curve) in many P&S cameras and low-end commercial printing processing produces.

The sharpness is approaching the "cardboard cut-out" stage, where each subject in the image appears to exist on a separate plane. I think the goal with sharpening of digital images is to get sufficient sharpness without over-separation. I think a Smart Sharpen is better for digital photos. With it you apply higher sharpening inside the subjects, but leave the the outside edges alone. You can then apply a lower amount of sharpening to get the desired edge sharpness with Unsharp sharpening. Regarding Smart Sharpening, I use a script in PSP x4 to emulate this, but PS/LR has this built in.
I have a different workflow, but I suspect the principles are similar.

I start with Lightroom. Sometimes I sharpen more than the default, and add a mask that shows mainly the edges. I guess this is a bit like using Smart Sharpen but in Lightroom. (Is that what you meant by "PS/LR has this built in"?) It helps avoid sharpening noise. I really want an image that is sharp but doesn't look sharpened - I hate to get edge artifacts out of Lightroom.

Then in Photoshop, I use Unsharp Mask as Smart Filters. I vary it with masks over the photo. And I might vary it for different purposes - web, print, projection, etc.
08-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #1480
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QuoteOriginally posted by mflagg Quote
NIce action but too much in my opinion. Try these... Lightroom Presets Game Day Presets for Sports Photography | Matt Kloskowski I run two sets of images for my customer. One without the preset just running it through perfectly clear and then a second run through using medium or heavy. Saw my sales double the first two weekend I started using them.
These are great, just what I needed for my grandson's Tiny Mite league
08-27-2013, 12:49 AM   #1481
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
Here I'd suggest dodging to brighten the front and faces of the players which are shadowed somewhat.
Hi

Like this ?
It is a tough job on such a small JPG, but I gave it a go just for the heck of it. Done with LightMachine.

Greetings

Last edited by Schraubstock; 04-06-2014 at 03:27 AM.
08-27-2013, 02:37 AM   #1482
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QuoteOriginally posted by Schraubstock Quote
Hi

Like this ?
It is a tough job on such a small JPG, but I gave it a go just for the heck of it. Done with LightMachine.
You could have downloaded a full-size version here:

All sizes | FBall-12 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!.

LightMachine looks interesting. I've downloaded a trial version to check it out.

Tomorrow, when I get some time, I'll post a dodged version which I've processed as a virtual raw file in SilkyPix Pro 4. It may not be as effective as LightMachine, but it's pretty straightforward to use if you shoot raw.

Dan.
08-27-2013, 07:03 PM   #1483
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Here is a dodging comparison of Sage97's 1st gridiron shot. I loaded the JPEG into SilkyPix Developer Pro 4 as a virtual raw file. Only the Dodge control was used. Working with the raw file may have been more effective.

Here are the histograms for dodging levels of 0/50/100:




Up to about a dodging level of 50, the effect seems mainly on the shadows and less on the highlights. Between 50-100, the effect is less on the shadows and mainly on the highlights. Normally I use 0-50. The dullness from 100 is useful in some high-contrast situations.

The following comparisons are split about where the red tape is on the face guard. The difference is most obvious on the helmet and in the shadows in the leaves of the right tree, if you scroll up and down between the original & 100 versions on the right.








Dan.

Last edited by dosdan; 08-27-2013 at 11:42 PM.
08-28-2013, 07:37 PM   #1484
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QuoteOriginally posted by jiimaa Quote
Does this thing still count as sport in 2013?
It depends - does anybody die?
08-29-2013, 10:06 PM   #1485
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City2surf runners , K-5 with Tamron 70-200 f2.8, I just love love love TAv mode, perfect for action shots.



















2 slow shutter speed experiments





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