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11-12-2010, 07:27 PM   #91
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For the K-7 - dead right, unless you shoot multiple 29 second exposures. It's a pain in the proverbial for stacking, or for timelapses.

11-12-2010, 08:47 PM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by kittykat46 Quote
I found this useful when working the camera in almost total darkness.

It has a headband and leaves both hands free to work your gear. And uses AAA batteries....

Amazon.com: Energizer 3 LED Headlight: Sports & Outdoors

There are cheaper types available, but this is the only one in the price range I found with the Red Low-Light LED which helps preserve your night-vision
I have one of those somewhere I use for night fishing, great idea. I will look it out.

Spent most of this evening taking more trails and shorter pics, tried Jupiter but just could not keep the camera stable enough to keep it in frame with the bigma and tc's.
11-13-2010, 02:11 AM   #93
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try using a red light instead of a bright white light in your flashlight, wont affect your night vision
11-21-2010, 08:50 PM   #94
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QuoteOriginally posted by krp Quote
You only need to do a DFS if there is a lot of noise. It looks like you have pretty dark skies you might even want to try a larger aperture next time. What lens did you use?
What is DFS? please enlighten me, thanks.

11-21-2010, 09:30 PM   #95
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentax Lover Quote
What is DFS? please enlighten me, thanks.

Dark Frame Subtraction -- it's one of the informal names (acronyms) for that secretive behaviour you'll never read about in a manual for your Pentax camera, and subsequently be "left in the dark" about what it's doing that takes so long.

The Wikipedia article is not extensive in itself but does incl. the usual ref links that are useful for cross-check cred:
Dark frame subtraction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There are some great reads off here describing it:
Dark Frame Subtraction - Google Search

.R.
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