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12-14-2010, 12:00 PM   #16
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Interesting topic. So doesn't K5 provide any controls over JPG quality/size in RAW+ output?

12-14-2010, 12:14 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Hound Tooth Quote
(x7.3 would be ideal on K-7, and x7.7 on K-5, but it jumps from x6.7 to x8)
When I compare a zoomed image on the lcd of my K-5 to a 1:1 view of the same image on my laptop, 14x on the lcd is closest to the size of image on my screen. Am I wrong in thinking that should equate to the closest lcd zoom factor for 1:1?
12-14-2010, 12:30 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ameiji Quote
Interesting topic. So doesn't K5 provide any controls over JPG quality/size in RAW+ output?
Yes, it does. I was just being dense initially, in locating them.
12-14-2010, 12:45 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by BCtoad Quote
I found when viewing pictures taken with my K. 20 and K7.pictures viewed on the LCD screen of the K7 seems soft, when you swap cards same pictures viewed on the K. 20 look way sharper. The viewing screen on the K7 and now the K5 tend to make the pictures look soft. If you have access to another body like the k-10 or k20 you will see the difference. You can sharpen the jay peg output with fin sharpen 2 which only applies to the JPEG.
I noticed this greatly when comparing the K-x to K20D which have the same LCD resolution, yet the K-x seemed to be enlarging lower resolution previews. I was hoping the K-x was gimped as its an entry level, but if the K-7/K-5 are like this too..

12-14-2010, 01:43 PM   #20
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I've also had this issue, Todd. Glad to know I'm not insane.
12-14-2010, 01:54 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by deadwolfbones Quote
I've also had this issue, Todd. Glad to know I'm not insane.
Lemme know if you have any ideas. I could shoot RAW+ (haven't tried that yet, but from what I'm reading here it sounds like that would be a way around it), but that would kinda suck, because it really cuts into what I can fit on the card.
12-14-2010, 04:09 PM   #22
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I think the answer to this may ultimately lay with Pentax - perhaps they could incorporate a higher res JPEG within the RAW file as an option, albeit at the expense of a slightly larger RAW file? Maybe a RAW H (High JPEG) and a RAW L (Low res JPEG)? The size/quality of the JPEG only needs to be matched to the rear LCD so maybe it wouldn't increase the RAW file size too much?
I'd vote for it ...

Vic.
12-14-2010, 04:35 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Arbalist Quote
I think the answer to this may ultimately lay with Pentax - perhaps they could incorporate a higher res JPEG within the RAW file as an option, albeit at the expense of a slightly larger RAW file? Maybe a RAW H (High JPEG) and a RAW L (Low res JPEG)? The size/quality of the JPEG only needs to be matched to the rear LCD so maybe it wouldn't increase the RAW file size too much?
I'd vote for it ...

Vic.
Yeah, I'd agree with this.

Nikon manages to pull it off somehow with the D700 which has, afaik, a very similar screen.

12-14-2010, 06:01 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by JamieP Quote
When I compare a zoomed image on the lcd of my K-5 to a 1:1 view of the same image on my laptop, 14x on the lcd is closest to the size of image on my screen. Am I wrong in thinking that should equate to the closest lcd zoom factor for 1:1?
yes, you are probably "wrong". the resolution (dots per inch or sq inch) of your k-5 lcd is much higher than that of your monitor, most likely, so the same physical size on the screen would mean higher zoom level on the camera lcd. these new camera lcd's are quite "dense" in resolution, compared to most computer screens (not all, but most)

here is my own laptop screen bluntly compared to a k-5 lcd

1440*900/14.1^2
6518.78678134902670891806
640*480/3^2
34133.33333333333333333333

did i say "most, not all"? forget that . that's why these new screens look so awesome (print/lighttable like)

in case you are wondering, the 921k "dots" actually do work out to that ammount:
640*480*3
921600

(because you need 3 of them for each actual "color" pixel)
12-14-2010, 07:06 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by deadwolfbones Quote
Yeah, I'd agree with this.

Nikon manages to pull it off somehow with the D700 which has, afaik, a very similar screen.
Pentax pulled it off with the K20D...

The jpeg resolution increase would be a negligible increase in file size.
12-14-2010, 07:28 PM   #26
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Hi
When I first started to look at magnifications on my K7 screen (and I guess it's the same for the K5) to check sharpness of taken pics I soon found out that I was overdoing things by quite a lot. Pictures I thought looked soft on my camera screen in reality were not because I cranked up magnification way too high. Now I have determined that a 3.4 times magnification on my camera screen is roughly (if not exactly) a 100% view on my computer screen. So now I resist the temptation to go past 3.4 x on the camera screen when checking shots. I hope this of help.

Greetings
12-15-2010, 03:14 AM   #27
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"No digital photograph ever looks great at 100% view"......well not totally true, but near enough.

I usually print out my images on A4 (almost the same as Letter-size paper) or view full screen on a 18" monitor. I find that 4x magnification set on the K-5 LCD screen accurately shows how the end result looks like . No problem with either JPEG or RAW previews.

Maybe its because of my long years with film cameras, but analysing photos at 100% crop is of very little interest to me.

Last edited by kittykat46; 12-15-2010 at 03:20 AM.
12-15-2010, 04:25 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by kittykat46 Quote
"No digital photograph ever looks great at 100% view"......well not totally true, but near enough.

I usually print out my images on A4 (almost the same as Letter-size paper) or view full screen on a 18" monitor. I find that 4x magnification set on the K-5 LCD screen accurately shows how the end result looks like . No problem with either JPEG or RAW previews.

Maybe its because of my long years with film cameras, but analysing photos at 100% crop is of very little interest to me.
Sorry, can't agree. If you have a decent screen (I have an NEC Multisync PA241W, calibrated) every shot, if focused correctly, will look great. And if you, like me, print on Super A3 it is important to eye every shot at 100% before printing. Perhaps you get confused because you cannot view your photograph in its entirety (especially on a 18" screen) on screen at 100% and therefore in your mind's eye you are missing something.
I agree with the rest of your statement though.
Greetings
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