[Jimfear]

Hi

I have noticed that a lot of my pics are shaky in situations they really should not be. Like 50mm lens at 1/180-1/250 and still clearly camera shake.

Does the SR need time to stabilize before the shot? I have noticed shake on a lot of shots when I just bring the camera up and take the shot.

Is there a function to turn of SR after a certain shuttertime for a certain focal length, or does it turn off automatically when not needed?

At this moment I'm contemplating just turning SR off for good and going about my business as I am used to with film. Any input would be useful.

[SpecialK]

It takes about 1/2 second for the SR to kick in after the half press. A "hand" indicator comes on in the viewfinder.

Here's the current thread.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/132496-shake-reduction-all-time.html

[sewebster]

I think the only two situations where SR could "work against you" are when the camera is definitely stable (like on a tripod or sitting down somewhere) or when you are purposely moving the camera during the exposure (panning etc.).

[interested_observer]

This has been a repeated concern expressed here. I think it would help if there were some additional explanation on exactly the definition of SR within the EXIF applied in the image.

For instance:

• When SR is indicated as active within the EXIF, does that mean that SR was enabled

or

• Was SR enabled and was actively applied. I.e., there was sufficient time for SR to take effect and it was actively applied to the image.

[Jimfear]

It takes about 1/2 second for the SR to kick in after the half press. A "hand" indicator comes on in the viewfinder.

Here's the current thread.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/132496-shake-reduction-all-time.html

Ah, should have done a search first. But after some vine I guess my senses were not all that sharp. The thread however did not so much concern itself with this subject.

Now regarding that half second. Does the camera need half a second to stabilize, with the shot so to say framed and ready to click? Or is the half second just to get the SR going and after that it works instantaneously?

What I meant with "working against me" is that when I bring the camera up quickly for a shot I might not give the camera adequate time to stabilize and thus shooting while the camera is trying to get its bearings and moving the sensor like crazy (creating blur in a shot that would have been clean with SR off). I usually keep the camera "ready" by half pressing a little now and then but carrying it in my hand while walking around, but when I bring it up I'm not sure if I wait half a second before taking the shot.

So how does this work? Does the camera register that it is not ready and keep the sensor firm during a shot or is it still trying to stabilize?

EDIT. I checked the exif on a shot taken with SR on, 50mm lens, 1/125 and showing clear camera shake. Exif indicating that the shot was stabilized. Is this to say that SR did all it could but it was not enough or was it doing something it should not have?

This has been a repeated concern expressed here. I think it would help if there were some additional explanation on exactly the definition of SR within the EXIF applied in the image.

For instance:

• When SR is indicated as active within the EXIF, does that mean that SR was enabled

or

• Was SR enabled and was actively applied. I.e., there was sufficient time for SR to take effect and it was actively applied to the image.

There are two distinct fields in the exif on whether the SR was turned on or off, and if it managed to stabilize the picture. I use ExifTool to check exif info.

[Gimbal]

Now regarding that half second. Does the camera need half a second to stabilize, with the shot so to say framed and ready to click?

Yes, you need to aim steadily at the target a short while for the SR to know what it should stabilize against. If you are all over the place and suddenly snap of a shot there is no way for the camera to know what is shake and what is deliberate movement and what are you actually trying to shoot.

[sewebster]

Yeah, maybe if you are holding the shutter half pressed all the time and then moving it suddenly and then shooting it could be a problem. I guess you are using manual focus too... I don't really see the point of doing that though, why not just push the shutter all the way down when you want to take a picture?

[Gimbal]

What?

[Jimfear]

Yeah, maybe if you are holding the shutter half pressed all the time and then moving it suddenly and then shooting it could be a problem. I guess you are using manual focus too... I don't really see the point of doing that though, why not just push the shutter all the way down when you want to take a picture?

What?

+1, I think some clarifying is needed...


I've done some tests now and concluded that the camera is trying to stabilize all pics, even when the proper time is not given for it to get it's bearings. And this causes the problem. IMO the SR should freeze when taking a shot if it's not sure what to stabilize against... adding to wish list of next firmware update...

[kittykat46]

Or maybe there is a problem with your unit's SR.
I haven't been able to replicate your reported problem.
For a 50mm lens, at 1/180 secs, there's no need for the SR, because a non-SR body or lens will do just fine. And that's what I found with my K-5, the pictures come out sharp, no difference between SR on and SR off at such a (relatively) high shutter speed.

[Kenn100D]

Check also you setting for SR. i believe its deep in the menu. Or reset everything and try again.

[WerTicus]

SR can be defective, I had my K20d replaced under warranty because the SR started playing up.

probably get someone who has more experience with SR first to check it out.

[Christine Tham]

I am not 100% sure, but I think on my K10D if I focus, then recompose, then shoot really quickly with SR on, I sometimes get the dreaded SR artefact of "double images" - even at fairly high shutter speeds ...

I haven't noticed it yet on the K-5, but I try to keep SR off unless I absolutely need it. I don't think SR works too well if I'm moving the camera a lot after pressing the shutter halfway - which I do as I'm always searching for the perfect frame ...

[Jimfear]

Or maybe there is a problem with your unit's SR.
I haven't been able to replicate your reported problem.
For a 50mm lens, at 1/180 secs, there's no need for the SR, because a non-SR body or lens will do just fine. And that's what I found with my K-5, the pictures come out sharp, no difference between SR on and SR off at such a (relatively) high shutter speed.

I don't think it's defective, works perfectly in situations where SR is actually needed and I give it time to stabilize. It's just in those situations where the SR icon has not lit up in the viewfinder that I get strange results.

SR can be defective, I had my K20d replaced under warranty because the SR started playing up.

probably get someone who has more experience with SR first to check it out.

As said above I don't think anything is wrong with the SR, it's probably working just the way it is supposed to. The problem is that SR doesn't always work with my shooting style, everything pre-set, just aim and shoot. A bit of an inconvenience but I can work around it, or turn the thing off now that I've finally found a quicker way of turning it on or off with only two moves.

I am not 100% sure, but I think on my K10D if I focus, then recompose, then shoot really quickly with SR on, I sometimes get the dreaded SR artefact of "double images" - even at fairly high shutter speeds ...

I haven't noticed it yet on the K-5, but I try to keep SR off unless I absolutely need it. I don't think SR works too well if I'm moving the camera a lot after pressing the shutter halfway - which I do as I'm always searching for the perfect frame ...

Yep, this is exactly the thing I'm getting. There really should be an option to turn SR off after a certain shutterspeed for a certain focal length... and another note on the wish list for the next firmware update... do you think pentax would listen if one was to send in the requests?

[30v iPentax]

Käytä jalustaa, kaukolaukaisinta ja nopeampia valotusaikoja. Ota tukea seinästä ja kun laukaiset et paina laukaisinta vaan puristat sitä hitaasti.