[Allison]

Dave,

Glad your k% came in. As well as a few others on here, I shoot RAW. I'm not losing any bits, so that makes it better than the premium setting (in my opinion, anyway). I can see where wanting more out of burst is valuable sometimes, but so far I have been more than pleased with the speed on RAW. Of course, coming from the K20, I was bound to be impressed )

[Ubuntu_user]

I shoot RAW pretty much always. However, if I do shoot jpeg, then it's going to be premium because I want to know that I'm getting the best possible image out of my camera.

[secateurs]

I shoot 4 star jpg, because space is at a bit of a premium at the moment, both on my cards and my computer (fixed soon i hope!)

I too wonder why the default isn't 4 star.

But i agree with the others... if space isn't an isssue, why not shoot RAW or RAW+

[Vitor]

Bom dia companheiros,
Peço desculpa se coloco a questão no local errado mas na verdade ainda não sei como proceder para criar um tópico;

Alguém me pode ajudar na calibração dos brancos? Venho tentando proceder de acordo com o manual (calibração manual) mas ainda não consegui atingir as cores que considero reais.
Automatic white balance(Equilibrio de brancos automático).
Cumprimentos, Vitor

[snostorm]

mornin all...

just getting my k-5 up and running...

the default on the k-5 is ***/best, but offers the ****/premium setting for image quality... gotta ask, why not opt for the ****premium setting, noting the file size will be bigger, but not a concern to me....
any comments/responses.....
what are other k-5 shooters using?
thanks, dave m

Hi Dave,

A bit late, but I thought I'd add my 2¢.

I shoot Jpeg almost exclusively. When the **** option was offered on the K-7 I did some experimenting comparing these with ***. I took consecutive shots in different settings with each, then processed the bejesus out of them to see where they might start falling apart. I found that there was no visual difference for me in the initial quality and that either could be processed to about the same degree without bringing out anything that could be called compression artifacts. For any practical purpose for me, that makes them the same, and I chose to use ***.

I've repeated the experiment with the K-5, and have come to the same conclusion. BTW, at **, there are few artifacts, but I did detect some. I feel they are easily good enough for up to 8x10 prints straight out of the camera, but they fall apart a bit if you need to process them to any significant degree, so for me, they would only be an option if I needed max burst rate shooting for long strings (which I don't usually do), and if I knew I could really nail the exposure and focus so the shots wouldn't need much PP.

Everyone may have different standards for something like this, so I'd suggest you do the test yourself to see where you're comfortable. There's a psychological factor to this -- some may strongly feel that there's got to be a difference since the higher compression discards more information. This may be true, but I'm a guy who needs to see a difference before it becomes valid. I could change my mind after shooting more in more severe lighting conditions, but I'll start the season in ***.

I happen to use fast 16GB cards that I've just obtained, so *** jpegs get me something over 1750 estimated shots per card. Card space is not really a factor. . . but write speed is something I obsess about, so *** looks to be very good option for me.

Scott

[snostorm]

Bom dia companheiros,
Peço desculpa se coloco a questão no local errado mas na verdade ainda não sei como proceder para criar um tópico;

Alguém me pode ajudar na calibração dos brancos? Venho tentando proceder de acordo com o manual (calibração manual) mas ainda não consegui atingir as cores que considero reais.
Automatic white balance(Equilibrio de brancos automático).
Cumprimentos, Vitor

Hi Vitor,

I hope this translates well. . .

If you look near the top left of your screen while in the particular forum that you want to post to, there is a "Thread Starter" link in the second border from the top.

I don't know if I'd change the Auto White Balance as I find it pretty good, but if you are seeing the same color cast in with all light sources, you can try it to see if this makes a difference.

You enter the WB menu with a press of the < button in the four way controller. AWB should be highlighted (a green square around AWB). You'll also notice that there's a little > arrow in the highlight square. This gives you a clue in any menu that to further adjust, you need to press the > button in the four way controller.

Doing this should bring you to the color adjustment grid for AWB. You can now take a "test shot" by rotating the on/off switch past the "ON" position that you can use as a reference. This is only a temporary image, and will not be saved to your card.

You should now see your reference picture with the color adjustment grid on your LCD. You can now use the buttons on the four way controller to move the little white spots around on the grid to change the color cast to your liking. You'll see the result on the test image in the background.

I'd test your new setting with a lot of different light sources to see if you still like the results before shooting anything that counts. AWB constantly changes with the light source, so any change that you make could throw this off in different ways for difference light temps.

Personally, I'd only change the fixed light source settings, or create a few Custom ones to suit places where you take a lot of available light pictures.

Hope that helped (and translated understandably)

Scott

[dcmsox2004]

Hi Dave,

A bit late, but I thought I'd add my 2¢.

I shoot Jpeg almost exclusively. When the **** option was offered on the K-7 I did some experimenting comparing these with ***. I took consecutive shots in different settings with each, then processed the bejesus out of them to see where they might start falling apart. I found that there was no visual difference for me in the initial quality and that either could be processed to about the same degree without bringing out anything that could be called compression artifacts. For any practical purpose for me, that makes them the same, and I chose to use ***.

I've repeated the experiment with the K-5, and have come to the same conclusion. BTW, at **, there are few artifacts, but I did detect some. I feel they are easily good enough for up to 8x10 prints straight out of the camera, but they fall apart a bit if you need to process them to any significant degree, so for me, they would only be an option if I needed max burst rate shooting for long strings (which I don't usually do), and if I knew I could really nail the exposure and focus so the shots wouldn't need much PP.

Everyone may have different standards for something like this, so I'd suggest you do the test yourself to see where you're comfortable. There's a psychological factor to this -- some may strongly feel that there's got to be a difference since the higher compression discards more information. This may be true, but I'm a guy who needs to see a difference before it becomes valid. I could change my mind after shooting more in more severe lighting conditions, but I'll start the season in ***.

I happen to use fast 16GB cards that I've just obtained, so *** jpegs get me something over 1750 estimated shots per card. Card space is not really a factor. . . but write speed is something I obsess about, so *** looks to be very good option for me.

Scott

thanks scott for the post..... appreciate your input and pragmatic testing... i use class 6 8gb cards... i'm not concerned over 'storage' space... just happy that i can squeeze the most out of the k-5 sensor, albeit in jpeg mode....(which suits me just fine)..... would be nice if pentax went into more detail in their manual to explain settings/options in greater detail, i.e., magic lantern.... dave m

[snostorm]

thanks scott for the post..... appreciate your input and pragmatic testing... i use class 6 8gb cards... i'm not concerned over 'storage' space... just happy that i can squeeze the most out of the k-5 sensor, albeit in jpeg mode....(which suits me just fine)..... would be nice if pentax went into more detail in their manual to explain settings/options in greater detail, i.e., magic lantern.... dave m

Hi Dave,

If they explained everything in detail, it would probably look like a phone book!

Then they'd have to translate it into a hundred different languages. . .

I've been a Pentax user for quite a while, and I think the manuals have gotten better -- but obviously could be improved still. . .but you'd probably still have to read between the lines to get some information. . .

In this case, I'd say that they implied that *** would be fine for even discriminating shooters by making this the default setting and calling it "Best". I think that the engineers are pretty good at what they do, and since most of the pro reviews use default settings for their tests, a less than optimum default would result in some dismal reviews, and the Marketing Dept would not be happy. . .

I originally thought this was the case, but ran the tests just to confirm it. I do this every time I get a new body.

Good shooting. . .

Scott

[Vitor]

Bom dia Scott,
Muito obrigado pela ajuda.
Tenho tentado proceder ao ajuste do WB manual utilizando uma superfície branca devidamente exposta ao Sol mas ainda não consegui o que queria.
A minha primeira REFLEX digital é uma K10D com a qual foi pacifico chegar ao que queria. Tenho necessidade imperiosa de reproduzir as cores como elas são. Uma locomotiva tem um determinado código para o seu esquema de pintura. A imagem deve reproduzir tão próximo quanto possível para não ter que emendar utilizando o “Photoshop”.
Vou continuar a tentar já que considero a K5 um excelente instrumento.
Quanto à utilização das ferramentas neste fórum, vou estudar melhor o assunto. Gosto do que já vi por aqui e penso que me poderá ajudar bastante.

Cumprimentos, Vítor

[Vitor]

“A locomotive has a specific code for its paint scheme”
I suppose that the translation system does not work properly. Most of times the real meaning of the phrase is lost. I will try to check each phrase before enter the post.