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03-22-2011, 03:40 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Purusam Quote
Anyone who know if u can put a teleconverter on the k-5 with the sigma 150-500 ?

Pleae give me a link :-)
You don't need a teleconverter. Sigma 150-500mm, 500mm F/8, Pentax Kx, remote, 1:1 crops. Sharp+4, Contrast+4, Saturation-2, and sharpened for the web (all photos used irfanview +40 sharp, perhaps oversharpened). Thursday, March 17th, a day and a half before full moon.


Of course, the full moon looks duller, so I did additional post processing curves to bring out the contrast, and turned saturation down to -4, to reduce false colors. Saturday, March19th, full moon. The false color is due to the intense post processing contrast; I should've switched it to black and white.
- Shel


One more from Tuesday March 15th, with sharp+1, contrast+1, nearly four days before full moon. Sharpened+40 by irfanview for the web.



Last edited by sheld; 03-22-2011 at 03:57 PM.
03-22-2011, 03:59 PM   #17
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Sheld: VERY very nice, better than mine. I used K-7, 150-500 but also a TC here for comparison, think I'll have another play without the TC one evening when I get time. Same problems as you re false colour and PP, full moon's arent the greatest to shoot.
04-17-2011, 02:53 AM   #18
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Took this shoot today
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04-18-2011, 07:17 PM   #19
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I don't have the 150-500mm but do have the 170-500mm. I find if I back off just a little from 500 say 450mm I pick up a lot of sharpness with most of my pictures even using a 2X converter. I have also read using a polarizer or (ND) filter helps.

12-10-2011, 04:37 AM   #20
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A few days ago...

Pentax K-5 • 400 ISO • Sigma 150-500mm f:5-6.3 APO DG HSM
Kenko Teleplus SHQ 1.5x

12-30-2011, 09:10 PM   #21
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Tonight, Pentax K-x, 500mm, F/8, 1/160, ISO200, post processed to add contrast, sharpness

Last edited by sheld; 12-30-2011 at 10:03 PM.
12-30-2011, 10:14 PM   #22
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As a starting point for the full moon, remember the "sunny f/16" rule applies: f/16 at 1/ISO.

So roughly 1/500 at f/16 at ISO 400, for example.
12-31-2011, 04:59 AM   #23
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What kind of tripod/head did you use? For this focal length on APS-C you should use a real heavy and stable tripod on stable ground with a very good head.
MLU and remote shutter control will help - a real long shutter speed also helps reducing visible camera shake, but requires a really good tripod.
How did you focus - do not assume that the end of the focus wheel is infinity for your lens.
Did you fine adjust the AF for your lens?

12-31-2011, 06:19 AM   #24
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Also, when everything is set right, take several pictures because the air is constantly moving so the sharpness will change from picture to picture even if you don't touch the camera.
12-31-2011, 06:52 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
What kind of tripod/head did you use? For this focal length on APS-C you should use a real heavy and stable tripod on stable ground with a very good head.
MLU and remote shutter control will help - a real long shutter speed also helps reducing visible camera shake, but requires a really good tripod.
How did you focus - do not assume that the end of the focus wheel is infinity for your lens.
Did you fine adjust the AF for your lens?
I didn't spend that much time on this moon photo, and only used a monopod (not tripod) with a swivel head attached, and I used normal autofocus (not live-view autofoucs), and I didn't use a timer or an IR remote. I also leaned against a fence so the camera was pretty steady. The Sigma 150-500mm has its own internal SR, so I turned off the SR in the camera. The autofocus global adjustment on my K-x camera is tuned for my Sigma 30mm, which seems ok for all lenses I have; the K-x only supports one autofocus adjustment via a firmware hack published on the internet.

QuoteOriginally posted by bkpix Quote
As a starting point for the full moon, remember the "sunny f/16" rule applies: f/16 at 1/ISO.
So roughly 1/500 at f/16 at ISO 400, for example.
I was shooting at ISO=200, but I shot at F/8, so that would be 1/800th. The shot I posted was 1/160th, or 5x the sunny f/16 rule, but this is a half moon, not a full moon, so the Sun's illumination is from the side. I used manual exposure mode. The first experiment exposure I tried was 1/400 and it seemed too dark so then I took three photos, at 1/160th, 1/200th, and 1/250th, F/8, ISO200, to optimize the exposure. Moreover, it turned out these were from the in camera's jpeg engine, since I had accidentally turned off raw+jpeg earlier, using the default "bright" settings. The image I posted is a 1:1 crop, post processed jpeg to increase contrast by 10%, and sharpened for the web.

Next month when the moon is at Perigee, (closest to Earth, larger angular diameter than last night), it will be a gibbous moon phase. I'll be more careful using liveview focusing and a tripod, and an IR remote, and raw+jpeg.
- Shel

Last edited by sheld; 12-31-2011 at 07:12 AM.
01-02-2012, 02:41 PM   #26
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half moon and k5 at 300mm

Hi Just bought the K5 and I am very happy with the low noise at low light and hi iso. Here is a moon shot I took last night with the da 55-300 lens at 300mm and 800 iso hand held and through my window.
Hank
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01-06-2012, 01:06 AM   #27
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Moon Shots

Been written about before https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/1713974-post11.html
01-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #28
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I did a nice moon shot w/ a 3/4 moon at twilight with the 55-300, but when I tried a few days later at night I couldn't use the live view manual focus because the moon was totally blown out. Is there a way to lower the brightness in the live view? (I tried shooting a flashlight into the lens, but that wasn't fully satisfactory). I got some decent shots but it was by manually micro-adjusting the focus across a range. Not nearly as nice as the live view focus at twilight.
05-10-2012, 11:54 PM   #29
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Evening shot





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