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05-16-2011, 07:07 PM   #166
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QuoteOriginally posted by jstevewhite Quote
say "Hold Still!" and shoot the two frames, then fill in all around the subject (without refocusing!! I use manual exposure and manual focus so that nothing changes between images); it's like painting with your sensor. So if you shoot an image that's four vertical frames tall and eight wide (32 shots + ) you get a picture that looks like it was shot with a - shoot, I dunno; a 35mm f.8?? .
32 shots!!! That seems like a an aweful lot a work to cheat the system

Perhaps this would be a good call for one of those automated pano shooting head thingies. Then again... if you've gone that far, I guess you could just as well double down and get a 645D while your at it

What about things like movement(foliage, waves etc.) any experiences or advice to share on those types of settings?

05-16-2011, 07:24 PM   #167
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QuoteOriginally posted by JohnBee Quote
32 shots!!! That seems like a an aweful lot a work to cheat the system

Perhaps this would be a good call for one of those automated pano shooting head thingies. Then again... if you've gone that far, I guess you could just as well double down and get a 645D while your at it

What about things like movement(foliage, waves etc.) any experiences or advice to share on those types of settings?
Well, let's bear in mind that this takes the 'effect' farther than you can achieve with anything short of a 4x5. If you're willing to accept "just" FF level "narrow DOF", you can do it with ... what, four shots? The FOV of a 180 on APS-c is 7.6 degrees, and 11.4 on FF, so two (heavily overlapping) frames should actually offer you the same DOF. That's easy peasy even in photoshop provided your subject can hold still for half a second

You want the shallowest DOF possible with moving subjects, you gotta go MF. If you just want SLIGHTLY less DOF with moving subjects, you can settle for FF.

The number of shots I take where I might need less DOF than I can generate with my K-5 is very, very small - an occasional portrait *for effect*. This is a good solution for my style, I think.

As a side effect, when executed well, the resulting image is higher "IQ" than FF or even MF, sometimes. I can't imagine shooting landscapes without stitching.

Here's an image I shot with my trusty FA 35 f2 AL ( ) and stitched. It's from the top of a mountain above the Big Basin Redwood Forest, and the original is over 100 mpixels, and the resolution is VERY high. I've actually got brackets of it, so I'm going to HDR them all together and THEN stitch them (HDR just for the sky; I'm not going to tone map it silly)


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