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05-06-2011, 03:58 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Deiberson Quote
I believe the better option is to bump the iso and keep the shutter over 500.
Problem when I use a high shutter speed is that the photo turns out boring. Technically the image is perfect, but the bike looks like its stationary. No sense of motion.

05-06-2011, 04:14 AM   #32
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Thought I'd just chime in to say I've had no luck with catch-in-focus on the K5, with anything moving faster than walking pace - the resulting shot ends up focused on where the subject was about half a second before, and this is the case whether they're coming towards me or going away. It worked on the K200D though!

[Edit: it's just occurred to me to try CIF with a smaller aperture, I think I've only attempted it wider than f2.]

I'd suggest AF-C, centre point focus and and TAv mode with a medium-fast shutter speed and a low-medium aperture. Keep the subject in the centre, and the panning should produce most of the blur you need to separate the rider from the background. If you take the shot wider than you normally would you can crop later to frame the subject somewhere other than the centre, there's plenty of resolution to spare unless you want to print at A2 or something.

Most important, test, practice and fine-tune the technique before race day.
05-06-2011, 07:34 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Deiberson Quote
I'm racing tomorrow. My plan was to have my wife shoot in AV rather than TV. My focus will be on aperture rather than shutter speed. I'll have her control the aperture with the ISO hoping she can keep the shutter relatively high.

The dof won't be a concern since the problem is generally when she's shooting in a group. Isolated subjects are generally ok.

The problem is that it's not me taking the shots. I'd be able to chimp it and trouble shoot the issue. She can't. She's searching for Green mode.
I see the stopping down the aperature actually helping the AF system, by providing a much larger envelope (or margin for tracking error) in keeping focus.

05-06-2011, 07:34 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Deiberson Quote
I believe the better option is to bump the iso and keep the shutter over 500. It will be mid day sun so at most i'll be shooting @ iso 800. for the k5, that's peanuts.
This is exactly what I would do. Shoot in Tv, not Av, and bump up the ISO to achieve a shutter speed of AT LEAST 500, but I would prefer closer to 1000. In midday sun, I would think the ISO wouldn't have to be above 800, at most. But I would also shoot in manual so I can control the aperture and the shutter speed. If you're racing laps and she will she you many times, I would shoot one or two or however many with a deep dof, f11 or greater; on subsequent laps I would shoot with f4, f5 to isolate the subject. If only 1 lap, though, I would shoot with smaller aperture.

Is there a "Sports" mode when using the green button? That would be the optimal solution, in this situation I mean.

05-12-2011, 10:20 AM   #35
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Here's the follow up with some pics
K5 with the Tamron 70-200 2.8
When in doubt....throw it in auto mode and have fun. Its easier that way. AF-C with 5 point center focus. All Jpegs. with a push of auto tone in LR3. It doesn't get any more automatic than that but it seemed to get more consistent results.

Yours truly to the left of the pink jersey. I'm in the back with the sponsor "pride" on my shoulders. From the Cat 3 race.










Winner of the Pro 1-2


Some of the images are still not as sharp as I'd like....but not too bad for a cycling mom just snapping photo's
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