Best screen ever for manual focus : Canon ee-S!!!

DogLover · 03-05-2014, 03:16 PM

Originally posted by chickentender

Which screen exactly did you order? I've a Katzeye split-focus in my K-3 currently, which is better than stock but still leaves me wanting a bit.

S-screen. Had the Katzeye before, the s-screen is better.

Eyewanders · 03-05-2014, 06:23 PM

Well that's good news. Ordered.

noelpolar · 03-07-2014, 12:01 AM

Originally posted by chickentender

Well that's good news. Ordered.

Got my "s" yesterday.......easy as to put in......."I can see clearly now"

Eyewanders · 03-07-2014, 09:04 AM

Not the quickest operation on the block are they? I don't think mine has even posted yet and he hasn't responded to my email. Oh well... not an emergency.

dlacouture · 03-10-2014, 02:01 AM

Guys, I'm glad to see that this thread is still living! Ranked as 6th thread (in posts or views!) of the K5 forum, never had so much success for my other posts!

Sorry for not chiming in recently to give answers to those having questions, but 2013 was a lousy photographic year for me (I think I barely made 500 clicks during the whole year!).

To all of you Fast Lenses Lovers, regards from the South of France!

Dominique.

maxxxx · 03-12-2014, 09:00 PM

Originally posted by vonBaloney

It is easy to get fooled but since the stock screen and the new screen are different thicknesses you *should* need shims unless your stock screen was already miscalibrated in just the right direction. Put the fastest lens you can find on it (f/1.4 preferably) and try critical focus at close distances -- you'll probably find you need to shim it...

Just tried with a 105 2.8 and 50 1.7. Focus was spot on with both without shim. Maybe I just got lucky

cali92rs · 03-13-2014, 07:12 AM

Originally posted by vonBaloney

It is easy to get fooled but since the stock screen and the new screen are different thicknesses you *should* need shims unless your stock screen was already miscalibrated in just the right direction. Put the fastest lens you can find on it (f/1.4 preferably) and try critical focus at close distances -- you'll probably find you need to shim it...

I am not sure if this has been covered already (probably has, but this is a real long thread)...
If youre front focusing, do you need thinner or thicker shims?
I could not decipher the focusingscreen.com website.

Slice Of Light · 03-14-2014, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by cali92rs

I am not sure if this has been covered already (probably has, but this is a real long thread)...
If youre front focusing, do you need thinner or thicker shims?
I could not decipher the focusingscreen.com website.

...If the shim is thinner than the correct value, you get back focus, if the shim is thicker than you get front focus

kh1234567890 · 03-14-2014, 03:51 PM

Originally posted by Slice Of Light

...If the shim is thinner than the correct value, you get back focus, if the shim is thicker than you get front focus

And make sure that the diopter adjustment is set correctly for your eyesight - the screen markings should appear in focus without having to strain whichever eye you normally use.

Remember that shimming the screen is nothing to do with the camera autofocus or its adjustment, what you are trying to achieve is to have the image on the focus screen focused when the image on the sensor is focused, which should be when the autofocus thinks that it is focused

Gregor · 03-17-2014, 09:04 AM

A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable?

cali92rs · 03-17-2014, 09:10 AM

Originally posted by Gregor

A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable?

The slower your lens, the darker it will be. If you have bad eye sight, it may be really tough indoors with a slower lens.

vonBaloney · 03-17-2014, 09:30 AM

Originally posted by Gregor

A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable?

It is darker than the stock screen with lenses f/3.5ish or slower, but it still looks pretty good (and DOF is not as thin with such lenses anyway, in general). I actually have both the S-screen along with a 1.3x magnifier on the eyepiece which probably makes it darker still and I think it is great. Since the screen doesn't matter for AF, and all of my slower lenses are AF, it is not a big deal. (How many lenses are you going to buy that are both old/MF AND slow?)

Gregor · 03-17-2014, 09:42 AM

Originally posted by vonBaloney

It is darker than the stock screen with lenses f/3.5ish or slower, but it still looks pretty good (and DOF is not as thin with such lenses anyway, in general). I actually have both the S-screen along with a 1.3x magnifier on the eyepiece which probably makes it darker still and I think it is great. Since the screen doesn't matter for AF, and all of my slower lenses are AF, it is not a big deal. (How many lenses are you going to buy that are both old/MF AND slow?)

Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen.

VisualDarkness · 03-17-2014, 10:02 AM

Originally posted by Gregor

Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen.

I find my K-5 with the ee-s much easier to focus with even with slow lenses in dark rooms than my stock K-5. The ee-s shows the out of focus areas basically as they would look on a photo while the stock screen shows that ugly fingerprint texture instead.

vonBaloney · 03-17-2014, 10:17 AM

Originally posted by Gregor

Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen.

That is a great underrated lens, and you will benefit from the s-screen. (You will REALLY benefit once you put a manual f/1.4 on it since they are basically impossible to focus in the optical viewfinder with the stock screen.)

03-10-2014, 02:01 AM	#620
dlacouture Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Var, South of France Photos: Albums Posts: 1,074 Original Poster	Whoah, still kicking! Guys, I'm glad to see that this thread is still living! Ranked as 6th thread (in posts or views!) of the K5 forum, never had so much success for my other posts! Sorry for not chiming in recently to give answers to those having questions, but 2013 was a lousy photographic year for me (I think I barely made 500 clicks during the whole year!). To all of you Fast Lenses Lovers, regards from the South of France! Dominique.

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03-05-2014, 03:16 PM	#616
DogLover Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 2,054	Originally posted by chickentender Which screen exactly did you order? I've a Katzeye split-focus in my K-3 currently, which is better than stock but still leaves me wanting a bit. S-screen. Had the Katzeye before, the s-screen is better.

03-05-2014, 06:23 PM	#617
Eyewanders Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Land of the Salish Sea Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343	Well that's good news. Ordered.

03-07-2014, 12:01 AM	#618
noelpolar Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Goolwa, SA Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,310	Originally posted by chickentender Well that's good news. Ordered. Got my "s" yesterday.......easy as to put in......."I can see clearly now"

03-07-2014, 09:04 AM	#619
Eyewanders Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Land of the Salish Sea Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,343	Not the quickest operation on the block are they? I don't think mine has even posted yet and he hasn't responded to my email. Oh well... not an emergency.

03-12-2014, 09:00 PM	#621
maxxxx Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Posts: 385	Originally posted by vonBaloney It is easy to get fooled but since the stock screen and the new screen are different thicknesses you should need shims unless your stock screen was already miscalibrated in just the right direction. Put the fastest lens you can find on it (f/1.4 preferably) and try critical focus at close distances -- you'll probably find you need to shim it... Just tried with a 105 2.8 and 50 1.7. Focus was spot on with both without shim. Maybe I just got lucky

03-13-2014, 07:12 AM	#622
cali92rs Veteran Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 3,354	Originally posted by vonBaloney It is easy to get fooled but since the stock screen and the new screen are different thicknesses you should need shims unless your stock screen was already miscalibrated in just the right direction. Put the fastest lens you can find on it (f/1.4 preferably) and try critical focus at close distances -- you'll probably find you need to shim it... I am not sure if this has been covered already (probably has, but this is a real long thread)... If youre front focusing, do you need thinner or thicker shims? I could not decipher the focusingscreen.com website.

03-14-2014, 09:31 AM	#623
Slice Of Light Inactive Account Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 41	Originally posted by cali92rs I am not sure if this has been covered already (probably has, but this is a real long thread)... If youre front focusing, do you need thinner or thicker shims? I could not decipher the focusingscreen.com website. ...If the shim is thinner than the correct value, you get back focus, if the shim is thicker than you get front focus

03-14-2014, 03:51 PM	#624
kh1234567890 Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Manchester, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,653	Originally posted by Slice Of Light ...If the shim is thinner than the correct value, you get back focus, if the shim is thicker than you get front focus And make sure that the diopter adjustment is set correctly for your eyesight - the screen markings should appear in focus without having to strain whichever eye you normally use. Remember that shimming the screen is nothing to do with the camera autofocus or its adjustment, what you are trying to achieve is to have the image on the focus screen focused when the image on the sensor is focused, which should be when the autofocus thinks that it is focused

03-17-2014, 09:04 AM	#625
Gregor Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Austin Posts: 161	A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable?

03-17-2014, 09:10 AM	#626
cali92rs Veteran Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 3,354	Originally posted by Gregor A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable? The slower your lens, the darker it will be. If you have bad eye sight, it may be really tough indoors with a slower lens.

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03-17-2014, 09:30 AM	#627
vonBaloney Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 6,029	Originally posted by Gregor A question I am sure has been covered but to be clear, are there any slow lenses or situations where this focusing screen becomes unusable? It is darker than the stock screen with lenses f/3.5ish or slower, but it still looks pretty good (and DOF is not as thin with such lenses anyway, in general). I actually have both the S-screen along with a 1.3x magnifier on the eyepiece which probably makes it darker still and I think it is great. Since the screen doesn't matter for AF, and all of my slower lenses are AF, it is not a big deal. (How many lenses are you going to buy that are both old/MF AND slow?)

03-17-2014, 09:42 AM	#628
Gregor Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Austin Posts: 161	Originally posted by vonBaloney It is darker than the stock screen with lenses f/3.5ish or slower, but it still looks pretty good (and DOF is not as thin with such lenses anyway, in general). I actually have both the S-screen along with a 1.3x magnifier on the eyepiece which probably makes it darker still and I think it is great. Since the screen doesn't matter for AF, and all of my slower lenses are AF, it is not a big deal. (How many lenses are you going to buy that are both old/MF AND slow?) Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen.

03-17-2014, 10:02 AM	#629
VisualDarkness Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Uppsala, Sweden Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,439	Originally posted by Gregor Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen. I find my K-5 with the ee-s much easier to focus with even with slow lenses in dark rooms than my stock K-5. The ee-s shows the out of focus areas basically as they would look on a photo while the stock screen shows that ugly fingerprint texture instead.

03-17-2014, 10:17 AM	#630
vonBaloney Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 6,029	Originally posted by Gregor Good point. I'm pretty sold on this screen, just needed some reassurance. I have a promaster(vivitar, etc) 100/3.5 that I'm slowly learning macro with. Its a lens that encourages mf and I'm hoping it will play well with the ee-s screen. That is a great underrated lens, and you will benefit from the s-screen. (You will REALLY benefit once you put a manual f/1.4 on it since they are basically impossible to focus in the optical viewfinder with the stock screen.)