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07-30-2014, 11:43 PM - 1 Like   #676
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Wow that's a spectacular image Seti... I like that you used an achro narrow band.

Comet 2014 E2 (Jacques) is in the morning sky at the moment. Imaged with a Skywatcher ED100 at F 7.2, 59 x 30 seconds, unmodified Pentax K-5.

Astrobin ---> Comet C/2014 E2 (Jacques) July 29 (Kevin) | AstroBin

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07-31-2014, 05:40 AM   #677
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QuoteOriginally posted by seti_v2 Quote
IC 1396 the elephant's truck nebula.

My make shift cooler cooled the sensor down almost 20F below ambient so all in all not too bad.
Very cool. Any plans/detail online for this mod? Cheers.
07-31-2014, 05:52 AM   #678
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QuoteOriginally posted by pixelsaurus Quote
Very cool. Any plans/detail online for this mod? Cheers.
No real plans. I posted a few posts ago some pictures on it. I ordered the peltier cooler here, then used some scrap aluminum for the bracket and attach it via the tripod threaded hole in the bottom of the camera.

Peltier Thermo-Electric Cooler Module+Heatsink Assembly - 12V 5A ID: 1335 - $34.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
08-09-2014, 05:49 PM   #679
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So a question.

I keep seeing references to not wanting to go higher than ISO 1600 on the K5. But can you go higher.

The reason I ask is that I went night sky shooting last weekend and did some shots at ISO 6400 & one at 12800 and the seem ok.

Maybe I am missing something? This was my first time going out. Went with a group. The photographer focuses on what he calls "Nightscapes" where you frame the stars with some type of landscape or structure. I really like those.

Oh and I do want to go get the O-GPS1 soon. Going on another night sky shoot in 2 weeks to Capitol Reef National Park in Utah. So tempted to pick up this.

Pentax K5 Rokinon 14mm f/2.8
This was ISO 12800 @ 10 seconds. I was actually doing this shot to setup my composition but it looked good to me. Tweaked in Lightroom.
Flickr

Pentax K5, Rokinon 14mm f/28
This was ISO 6400 @ 30 seconds.
Flickr


Currently I am working over the photos in Photoshop to get more out of them (with a LOT of help from YouTube videos)

08-09-2014, 10:24 PM   #680
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QuoteOriginally posted by SirTomster Quote
So a question.

I keep seeing references to not wanting to go higher than ISO 1600 on the K5. But can you go higher.

The reason I ask is that I went night sky shooting last weekend and did some shots at ISO 6400 & one at 12800 and the seem ok.

Maybe I am missing something? This was my first time going out. Went with a group. The photographer focuses on what he calls "Nightscapes" where you frame the stars with some type of landscape or structure. I really like those.

Oh and I do want to go get the O-GPS1 soon. Going on another night sky shoot in 2 weeks to Capitol Reef National Park in Utah. So tempted to pick up this.

Pentax K5 Rokinon 14mm f/2.8
This was ISO 12800 @ 10 seconds. I was actually doing this shot to setup my composition but it looked good to me. Tweaked in Lightroom.
Flickr

Pentax K5, Rokinon 14mm f/28
This was ISO 6400 @ 30 seconds.
Flickr


Currently I am working over the photos in Photoshop to get more out of them (with a LOT of help from YouTube videos)
Good Evening - These are wonderful images and the detail is excellent. I am in the process of doing the same types of shots are you. I picked up a GPS unit a couple of months ago and have been combining it in with my shooting - more on that a bit later.

I see that you are using f2.8 lenses in each of the images. Plus one image appears to be 10 seconds while the other is 30 seconds. Night landscapes with the Milky Way essentially pushes you to the extremes across all fronts. Faster glass helps a lot - but Pentax is limited (Sigma has come out with their new 18-25/f1.8 which is suppose to be extraordinary). Higher ISO works really well, but the higher you go, the more noise you acquire during shooting. The whole crux of the situation is the shutter speed. The longer the shutter speed, you enhance your landscape but at the cost of star trails - so 30 seconds is about the maximum using wide angle lenses.

GPS - solves some of these problems but in doing so, exacerbates others. With the GPS attached and in the star tracking mode, you can get shutter speeds up to about 5 minutes (actually about 4.5 minutes - beyond this, you start to get star trails in the corners of the frame). This is wonderful - and is due to the sensor inversely tracking the movement of the stars. This (solution) is also the problem - since the camera's sensor is tracking the stars (to make them appear to be static), the static landscape elements - now appear to be moving. I have found that you can get about 40 seconds of shutter time before you really start to see the landscape elements degrade in sharpness (they take on some of the qualities of a painting). I have been adding to a link here that has been some what of a notebook in my trials and tribulations in this approach (unfortunately, it out to about 3 pages now [~40 posts], a real wall of words).One approach is to divide the problem in half. Take a long exposure with a very low ISO (ISO80) image at f8 for the landscape element. Then boost the ISO to 1600 or 3200, open the aperture wide open and then with the GPS unit in star tracking mode, run a 2 to 4 minute exposure for the stars. Then in post processing, put the two images together using something like Topaz remask with photoshop elements.

You asked about very high ISO levels. Out in the dark, I have used ISO 51200 to take images in pitch black darkness, to see how I am framed and what I am pointing at. These have turned out VERY well, a bit grainey - but very interesting. I have some of these in the link above. Which brings us back to the problem with the landscape element. With the high ISO and noise, you start to loose the detail and the qualities that you want in the landscape. Actually, I took a vertical stitch of the landscape and the Milky Way - but for the landscape, I forgot to lower the ISO. The whole process has become somewhat long and is prone to error. In working through this, one of the problem areas is that when you are in the GPS set of menu items, you are unable to modify the ISO value. So you wind up with a lot of button pushes via the rear panel menu system.

ISO 1600 is a good balance for the single frame shots of the type that you are taking. Increased sensitivity to record as much starlight as possible, while still remaining at a relatively low noise ISO range to record excellent detail in the landscape.


Last edited by interested_observer; 08-09-2014 at 10:35 PM.
08-11-2014, 07:55 AM   #681
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QuoteOriginally posted by SirTomster Quote
I keep seeing references to not wanting to go higher than ISO 1600 on the K5. But can you go higher. The reason I ask is that I went night sky shooting last weekend and did some shots at ISO 6400 & one at 12800 and the seem ok. ...
Processing K-5 images is much easier at 1600 than at higher ISO. As you push ISO you get more noise. I have had some success using unstacked 6400 ISO for screen display but I don't think my results are good enough for printing purposes. Stacking lessens noise. I prefer 1600 ISP or lower as stacking input because you need very large stacks as you push ISO.

On the other hand, 12800 ISO is usable as your linked image shows. If you tried to print large, though, you might run into processing limitations.

The sample below was at 12800 ISO. Exposure length was only 2 seconds to avoid star trailing. Individual images were very noisy, but I stacked ~60 images to reduce noise so I could aggressively manipulate the contrast curve. (the experiment taught me that the FA43 has too much coma distortion for astrophotography)
08-12-2014, 02:37 PM   #682
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Thanks for the replies.

I haven't gotten into stacking yet and only have taken single images. I will be going on another shoot on the 22nd and will practice some more. This only makes me want to do more.

The info on how the O-GPS1 will distort the landscape had not occurred to me. So I am going to hold off on getting that device until I feel my Photoshop skills are better for me to take multiple photos and mask them together.

For now, baby steps.

I am still processing my images so will post more to the Flickr album in the next week or so showing what I was able to get on my 1st attempt.

Hopefully I have learned a little bit and will be able to do more since I plan on going to another night shoot in 2 weeks.
08-14-2014, 12:12 PM - 1 Like   #683
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One of my milky way photos appears in the September 2014 issue of Stuff Magazine (a UK tech mag) in an article about camera gadgets which features the K50 and the OGPS-1



Here is my original image:
Starry Night

see it on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeoria/14277689371/
shot with K5 & DA15 Limited & OGPS-1

08-16-2014, 09:53 AM   #684
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
One of my milky way photos appears in the September 2014 issue of Stuff Magazine (a UK tech mag) in an article about camera gadgets which features the K50 and the OGPS-1



Here is my original image:
Starry Night

see it on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeoria/14277689371/
shot with K5 & DA15 Limited & OGPS-1
Congrats mikeSF!!!
08-16-2014, 11:33 AM   #685
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
One of my milky way photos appears in the September 2014 issue of Stuff Magazine (a UK tech mag) in an article about camera gadgets which features the K50 and the OGPS-1



Here is my original image:
Starry Night

see it on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeoria/14277689371/
shot with K5 & DA15 Limited & OGPS-1


Wow! That's awesome Mike, congrats!


It seems a little odd to me that they'd feature the K-50 and show off a picture taken with the K-5. It get that they have the same sensor, but to those that don't know, I imagine it would seem strange.


And does that pic of the magazine blow up any bigger or do I have to buy a copy?
I'd like to read what it says.
09-03-2014, 11:38 AM   #686
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So much nice work here!
It's nice to browse through and see what you all have been up to with your lenses pointed skyward.
The other night I was out shooting the milky way.....when I happened to turn to the North. Aurora!
I was out in the middle of a country road, thus the power lines.
considering them, I left them in.
I think they add a nice component.
K-5
DA 14mm
30 seconds.
ISO 1600,
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09-04-2014, 07:59 AM   #687
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
here's one from last week using the O-GPS1 and FA31 on the K5. The light trail is from an early morning fishing boat passing behind the arch.

Night Passage

it might look better here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mikeoria/13947113417/

Hello Mike

Wonderful photography

Could you please describe how much time it takes to set up the tripod+DSLR+OGPS ?
And how do you proceed ? Do you aim Polar star ? or something else ?
Do you stack several shots ?
etc...

I'm really thinking about buying this module

Thank you
09-22-2014, 08:40 AM   #688
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NGC7635 My first HST palette

NGC7635 my first HST palette attempt.

19x900" H-alpha
13x900" OIII
7x900" SII

8"SCT on NEQ6 mount. Kolari vision spectrum modified Pentax k5. All at ISO800.
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Last edited by seti_v2; 09-24-2014 at 12:29 PM.
09-23-2014, 11:18 PM   #689
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QuoteOriginally posted by astroboy69 Quote
Hello Mike

Wonderful photography

Could you please describe how much time it takes to set up the tripod+DSLR+OGPS ?
And how do you proceed ? Do you aim Polar star ? or something else ?
Do you stack several shots ?
etc...

I'm really thinking about buying this module

Thank you

Hi, sorry for the delay - I just came across this post.

Here is my milky way process:

When i arrive onsite, i do spend a good 15-20 minutes studying the position of the milky way in order to determine a comp. I must consider where the mw will be in about 30-40 minutes and work accordingly. If at the ocean, I consider the tide so I am not interrupted by encroaching water. I carefully level the tripod so the pano will track to the vertical axis, again including some correction for the movement of the earth. Then, i carefully calibrate the O-GPS1 and run a test exposure. I start my pano series at the highest point and work as quickly as I can to get to the bottom. Then, I set a longer exposure for the foreground, turn off the O-GPS1 and increase ISO if needed (sometimes there is no ambient light at all). I may light paint the foreground with a flashlight unless the fog/spray is flying. Finally, review all exposures to make sure everything is in there before breaking down.



that's me grabbing a 2-min power nap between shutter clicks. Using my Lowepro 200 bag as a pillow.

Last edited by mikeSF; 09-23-2014 at 11:26 PM.
09-24-2014, 08:18 PM   #690
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Awesome shots everyone!
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