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07-19-2011, 02:08 PM   #1
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K5 setup

hello All,

I moved to a K5 from a k200d, and I'm trying to learn the differences and setup the camera to my liking.

This is what I'm used to: Av, RAW, ISO200, spot, AF on OK button, and as far as that everything is ok.

I would like to use TAv to use both rotating switches, but I understand that I need to set ISO=AUTO, which I do not like. Is this correct?

Also I would like to extend the dynamic range as much as possible, but I see that HDR is for Jpeg only. Other setting regarding highlight and shadow recovery should be usable with RAW, correct?

thanks for reading,
-Gian

07-19-2011, 02:14 PM   #2
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TAv mode is basically manual mode but with auto ISO, so if you don't want ISO=AUTO then you should shoot in manual mode.

I'm pretty sure that highlight and shadow recovery work in RAW, but one of them limits low ISO to 160 instead of 80. I can't remember which one though.
07-19-2011, 02:26 PM   #3
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I think a lot of K5 users are in love with Tav mode, I know I am, it is my most used setting.

Here's how I see it. Most of my failed shots are from subject movement ....SR covers camera shake very nicely.....so when I see a subject that is or might be moving, I try to determine the speed needed to freeze it. In choosing that speed, the K5 will select the ISO necessary to make the capture and proper exposure. It does a good job most often....very often in fact.

So if I was not using Tav, I might not have been fast enough in manual to get the right settings and missed the shot altogether at worst...at best, shooting in manual mode, I would have ended up with the same settings I got in Tav...except that in Tav, I got those settings instantly and automatically.

Do some experimentation......you may love Tav too! Of course, this all depends on your subject and your demands of the quality you receive.....but if a shot takes 1/250....and it is poorly lit, you will end up at the same place no matter what you do. When you need speed, there is little to replace that need.

Best Regards!
07-19-2011, 03:48 PM   #4
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I'm a big (and recent) fan of TAv mode, too. What I typically do when in a situation I know I'll be taking some photos is to set both aperture and shutter speed to some "ideal" (e.g. if I'm looking for a relatively narrow depth of field where my subjects are mostly in motion, I might start out at f/4.0, 1/250th) and then point the lens to a place where the light is bright and again to a place where the light is dim, and watch what's happening with ISO. Depending on conditions, I'll then adjust aperture and shutter speed that will work in *both* bright and dim lighting, and where ISO is in an acceptable range. The result is practically as easy as point-and-shoot.

07-19-2011, 06:03 PM   #5
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I agree with Rupert here; TAv is great for when the subject is moving, but you want control over the aperture. Unfortunately the entry level bodies can't select different setting for how auto-ISO works as this would help meet the need to maintain higher shutter speeds whilst in Av mode.
07-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #6
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Experiment going past iso 200, you will be pleasantly surprised at how high you can go.
07-20-2011, 12:05 AM   #7
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Iso higher than 200

Crewl1,

this is interesting.

I have never pushed beyond 200, given that, after some 25 yrs shooting Kodachrome 64, I always felt I had a bonus of almost two stops.

Now you suggest I can go further? how further?

I like very much shooting night scenes with a tripod, or using other tricks to steady the camera (including SR).
07-20-2011, 12:26 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gian Quote
Now you suggest I can go further? how further?

I like very much shooting night scenes with a tripod, or using other tricks to steady the camera (including SR).
there is no significant loss of quality between ISO 80-800 as long as you shoot raw
for tripod work, ISO 80 is awesome

07-20-2011, 06:11 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gian Quote
Crewl1,

this is interesting.

I have never pushed beyond 200, given that, after some 25 yrs shooting Kodachrome 64, I always felt I had a bonus of almost two stops.

Now you suggest I can go further? how further?

I like very much shooting night scenes with a tripod, or using other tricks to steady the camera (including SR).

PLEASE! Do not be like that Canon guy that has never once gone beyond ISO 100.....and consequently has missed a lifetime of great shots....but the ones he did get were noise free.
Photographers see noise, real people seldom notice it unless it is just a plain snow blizzard.

For its intended use, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the noise in this shot....sure, National Geo won't come looking for me, but I sort of doubt they were going to anyhow.

If you try the K5 in Tav mode you can experiment and find where your "line of approval" stops and you will most likely be surprised at just how high that may be.

Otis wanted to know if he would still be handsome at ISO 12,800.......and he was! If you don't think he was, you be the one to tell him........and then Good Luck! His million Squirrel Army can be on location anywhere on the globe within a few hours...ready to destroy phone lines, cable lines, power transformers and car wiring harnesses.
As for the hacking that once shut down DPR and erased years of data, Otis got the blame for that....but it was never proven. He said he would tell me if I asked, but of course then he would have to kill me. Death by Squirrel...no thanks!

Just to be clear once again....Otis looks very handsome here! You do agree?
[IMG] [/IMG]
07-20-2011, 07:18 AM   #10
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Take Rupert and Otis' advice and experiment to see how comfortable you are with a new upper limit.
For long exposures on a tripod it may not make a difference, but for handheld in low light the K-5 sensor gives exceptional IQ at very high ISO.
My auto ISO limit is set at 3200.
07-20-2011, 09:12 AM - 1 Like   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gian Quote
hello All,

I moved to a K5 from a k200d, and I'm trying to learn the differences and setup the camera to my liking.

This is what I'm used to: Av, RAW, ISO200, spot, AF on OK button, and as far as that everything is ok.

I would like to use TAv to use both rotating switches, but I understand that I need to set ISO=AUTO, which I do not like. Is this correct?

Also I would like to extend the dynamic range as much as possible, but I see that HDR is for Jpeg only. Other setting regarding highlight and shadow recovery should be usable with RAW, correct?

thanks for reading,
-Gian
Gian, Welcome to the club!

First, you do not need to set (and don't even know that you can) the AF to the OK button, the K5 has a separate button for that but, you already knew that didn't you.

As said, if you do not want Auto ISO while using manual mode (which is what TAv does), use M mode and you can then fix the ISO where you want it.

Forget about in camera HDR processing and all the other stuff. You bought one of the best machines out there when it comes to dynamic range. Shadow and Highlight recovery (as well as all the other JPG processing tools in the camera) are only used to create the JPG. They will only serve to slow you down unless you absolutely don't want to deal with the PEF/DNG RAW files to build your own JPGs.

These are the basic way I have mine set.

Expand sensitivity so you can go from ISO 80 - 52000

Spot meter

RAW+JPG (though I rarely use a from camera JPG)

All in camera noise reduction turned off

Optical Preview on the power switch (when you pull it to the right, it stops the lens down).

In M and TAv modes, Aperture on the front wheel, shutter speed on the rear

In Av and Tv modes, respective settings on rear dial, ISO on the front. This way I can switch from auto ISO to manual with the simple flick of the front dial. The green button will return it to Auto ISO should you want to. You can limit the upper and lower range of the Auto ISO so it will not go above or below where you want it to. You could even set it for ISO 80 - ISO 100 for your TAv mode.

Catch In Focus turned on because I use a lot of manual lenses.

Center point AF

For Live view, the shutter release button does not activate AF, only the AF button.

RAW/FX button set to activate the electronic level.

Those should get you started. If you do not have software that reads the PEF files, you can use DNG with most programs.

Finally, Don't sell the K5 short when it comes to using the Higher ISO speeds.

5000



16000



And here's one for Otis.. ISO 25600



Good luck and enjoy the new camera.


Last edited by JeffJS; 07-20-2011 at 09:26 AM.
07-20-2011, 09:42 AM   #12
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I have a similar history as the OP does.
Moved up to the K-5 from K200D a few months ago-love it.

I shoot mostly RAW and use auto ISO with the upper limit set at 1600.
I've not been disappointing with any of the shots so far and there have been many.
It may soon be time to push the upper limit up for one more stop.
This is an amazing camera. Rarely did I go beyond ISO 200 with the K200 D

Enjoy

Another name for the TAv mode is "The Photographer Mode" as it gives such great control due to the impressive Hi ISO performance of this camera.
I recently shot an air show and I wanted f8 and 1/6000s and got it . The ISO ran around 1100 on a bright sunny day.
http://jpgmag.com/photos/3030313


And for anyone interested Otis is in my backyard right now.

j BEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
07-20-2011, 11:39 PM   #13
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Gian. After 30 years of film and a lay off from photography of 10 years, or more, the K5 is my first DSLR and previously only having used manual cameras the TAv mode is the setting that comes most naturally to me.

In old film terms the grain difference between 100ASA and 400ASA were very noticeable. 1600ASA was 'out of the question' unless you were either desperate to catch something or you were looking for a particular effect, such as a 1970's Biba poster.

The high ISO performance of the K5 is light years ahead. Set your camera to TAv and give it a go for a while. You'll be amazed.

Kodachrome 64 was the gospel but the noise on the K5 at 1600 is probably comparable to the grain on old Ektachrome 200, and that wasn't a bad standard.
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