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07-20-2011, 01:28 PM   #1
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Exposure Bracketing

Hello, first post but long time lurker. Will receive the K 5 tomorrow so for the last week I have been studying the manual and every review as well as doing searches in this forum (great forum by the way)!

I have a question concerning exposure bracketing for HDR image processing through Photomatix Pro. Can the camera do a 5 shot burst at -4, -2, 0, +2, +4? The instruction manual is confusing about only doing only 1/3 or 1/2 EV steps, but I have read on another thread here it will at least do -2, 0 +2 on a 3 shot burst.

Thanks in advance.

07-20-2011, 01:40 PM   #2
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Yes:
See the home page for the forums and there is a quick tip that will show you how to set the drive mode in a snap.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/
Hope that helps.
07-20-2011, 02:02 PM   #3
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Yes the K-5 can do this. It will do this normally (default and frankly the preferred way) in a sequence of: 0, -2, +2, -4, +4ev, you can also select a 3 shot bracket and I believe there is also a two shot bracket mode. It appears that the maximum separation in Ev is 2 for any bracket step, i.e., you can't do a 3 bracket +4/-4ev bracket, it has to be 5 shots to get 4ev.

That's on raw files. You can do in camera HDR on jpeg images.
07-20-2011, 02:05 PM   #4
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That is perfect! Thanks for the link.

07-20-2011, 02:31 PM   #5
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QuoteQuote:
and frankly the preferred way) in a sequence of: 0, -2, +2, -4, +4ev, .
For you maybe :-) I like -/0/+ so you don't jump back and forth.

Last edited by SpecialK; 07-20-2011 at 02:48 PM.
07-20-2011, 02:40 PM   #6
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The theory of the default bracketing order is that, the 0Ev one is normal, the -Ev is a quick shutter speed, and the +Ev is a longer shutter speed. That is sort of supposed to make for better handheld shots. I know there are other ways to look at this and being on a tripod who cares. But that's the theory.
07-20-2011, 02:58 PM   #7
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I suppose for HDR, the +/-/+/- thing might work, though I would think you'd have best results on the 3-leg beast as you mention. I was thinking "regular" bracketing. Shrug.
07-20-2011, 04:47 PM   #8
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Photomatix recommends shooting a 3 bracket shot in this order: 0, -, +, which is the default setting for the K 5. The way I shoot most will be 0, -2 and +2 but I need the extra EV spread for the great dynamic range when shooting the interior of a house on the beach in the Caribbean with the windows open so the outside view can be seen as well.I find that interior shots are very difficult under those conditions unless you take themat sunrise/sunset and I am hoping that an 8 EV burst will do it justice. Theonly cameras that will capture a wider range (up to 18 EV) are out of my price range!

01-07-2012, 05:56 PM   #9
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Expanding exposure bracketing to 15 stops on K-5

Lets take the braceting to the extreme with the K-5... this is a excerpt of a doc for a couple of Pentaxian friends.


Externally processed HDR
All your cameras do perform "Exposure Bracketing" which simplifies the process. Your first stop if interested in exploring this I suggest open you camera manual and look up "Exposure Bracketing" , on the Pentax K-r and K-x you can automatically bracket three consecutive images at three exposure levels:

Step Interval Pentax K-r/K-x Bracket Values
1/3 EV 0.3, 0.7, 1.0, 1.3, 1.7, 2.0, 2.3, 2.7, 3.0
EV 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0
3 images: 0EV > -1EV > +1EV (where 1 = bracket value chosen)

The Pentax K-5/K-7 has fewer bracketing values but can select between two, three or five bracketed exposures:

Step Interval Pentax K-5/K-7 Bracket Values
1/3 EV 0.3, 0.7, 1.0, 1.3, 1.7, 2.0
EV 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0
2 images: 0EV > -1EV or 0EV > +1EV
3 images: 0EV > -1EV > +1EV
5 images: 0EV > -1EV > +1EV > -2EV > +2EV
Where 1 and 2 based on bracket value chosen.
Note: Examples based on EV step intervals so whole steps used.

Expanding your exposure brackets
If the scene requires it you can expand these bracketed shot ranges. After selecting Exposure Bracketing take your initial group of shots now adjust your EV Compensation so the bracketed shots move either to the right to gain +EV or left to provide additional -EV will allow you to capture the full range of the image you visualized.
Example:
5 images: 0EV > -1EV > +1EV > -2EV > +2EV Now if I press the button and watch my status screen either in the viewfinder, LCD or live view if available I can adjust the EV till I see +3.0 or +5.0 depending on your camera, basically you want your left hand bracket marker to be on one stop above your previous max. Now when I now take my bracketed picture will result in:
5 images: +5EV > +4EV > +6EV > +3EV > +7EV
Now we repeat this only we set our far right hand bracket marker to one step lower, -3.0 or -5.0 this results in:
5 images: -5EV > -6EV > -4EV > -7EV > -3EV
This gives us a 15 stop range total which is pretty amazing and likely far in excess of what would be needed. This of course could be modified to expansion of your dynamic range within a less expansive way with any duplicated exposure values deleted.
01-08-2012, 02:19 AM   #10
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I did some 3 & 5-shot EV brackets on a K-5 the other night for a cityscape. This was on a tripod. Originally I had 0, -1.3EV, +1.3EV. Since I already had a -0.7EV Comp applied, the actual exposures were -0.7EV, -2EV, +0.6EV. I had a bright horizontal linear light on the far left, and I noticed while reviewing during the shoot that in the first shot of each sequence, the light bar was blurred, indicating that the camera had moved.

Below is a composite 100% crop of 2 shots, offset vertically for visibility. The top image is the blurred version. Beneath it is the next shot in the sequence, which is fine:





The horizonal light bar on the building is about 6px high in the image. An alignment analysis in FDRTools, a HDR program, indicates that the second image, relative to the first, is -3px down and 1px to the right. (This was comparing the two original shots, not this composite, offset shot.) I probably won't have noticed this without the presence of a thin bright object on the edge of the frame.

Anyway, this was not shutter vibration, as only the first shot in each sequence was affected. (I had configured the camera for one shutter release press for the whole sequence, rather than a shutter release press for each shot in the sequence.) Instead, it was flexure of the camera on the tripod due the pressure on the shutter release button. The tripod is a Velbon Sherpa 450R with a quick release bracket head, not a ball head. Normally I shoot with a 2s delay for night-time shooting, so I don't experience this problem, but there is no 2s delay available when using bracketing.

What I did for the rest of the night was:

1. Change to a 5-shot sequence of -2EV, -1EV, 0EV, +1EV, +2EV, with -0.7EV Comp. Most of the first shots in the sequence were still blurred, but I planned to discard these first shots anyway.

2. I tried to prevent the camera moving when pressing the shutter release button, by pressing it gently, but this did not help. I managed to get one sequence without a blurred first shot by holding firmly on to the left side of the camera as well, but this was not easy to do without overcompensating.

Since holding the tripod collar did not help and I'd already reduced the extension of the top part of the tripod to zero, I think that the flexure is occurring in the spring-loaded quick release bracket, namely between the bracket on the PH-157Q head and the QB-157 quick release plate.

http://www.velbon.com/jp/catalog/panhead/ph157q.html

What I should have done is used either a wired or an IR remote control to release the shutter. I've got both of these, but I did not bring them with me on the night. So I suppose the lesson is: bring more than you think you'll need in case you change your mind.

Dan.

Last edited by dosdan; 01-16-2012 at 08:46 PM.
01-16-2012, 08:45 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
What I should have done is used either a wired or an IR remote control to release the shutter.
Dear Dan
You had me worried there because as I am still working towards the upgrade from the K-x to the K-5, one of the improvements that I am looking forward to (besides numerous others) is the self-timer feature in conjunction with the exposure bracketing. Something I always had to work around in the K-x which does not accept the remote shutter or timer release for exposure bracketing. Whilst a remote shutter release would have been useful, you could have set the K-5 on the exposure bracketing with timer release setting to prevent shake in the first image.

I even checked on the on-line user manual and it is described on page 158. All the best, Frank

Last edited by Falke; 01-16-2012 at 09:27 PM.
01-16-2012, 10:23 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Falke Quote
I even checked on the on-line user manual and it is described on page 158.
I 've checked the on-line manual and you're correct. I don't know why I didn't notice the 2nd & 3rd options under Exposure bracketing. Maybe I just noticed the 3rd one (IR remote) and thought "I don't have one with me, so that's not going to help", but if I had looked more closely I could have used the 2nd option: exposure bracketing with initial 2s delay.

Thanks again,
Dan.

Last edited by dosdan; 01-16-2012 at 10:29 PM.
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