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08-24-2011, 11:12 PM   #1
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I am not sure how to print the histogram related to this picture so I am just attaching the picture hoping that you can open it up in software that shows the histogram. My question is how to adjust and what to adjust to bring the info in from the left and right hand sides. I know how to move either one in. If you are banging on the right hand side of the histogram, close down the aperture/speed up the shutter etc. conversly, if you are banging on the left hand side of the histogram, open up the aperture/slow down the shutter etc. In both cases as well, I guess you could use the EV compensation +1, +2, -1, -2 etc. How do you adjust for both light and dark in a pictue? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for reading my post.

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08-25-2011, 12:32 AM   #2
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It sounds like you have a scene with more dynamic range than the camera can handle.

On a photo like the one you have posted I would generally meter on the subject's face and let the highlights blow out and the shadows go dark if I wasn't looking to edit the photo in software.

Depending on your camera, the scene, and how much post processing you want to do there are other options.
- You could expose to keep the highlights and then bring up the underexposed areas and shadows in an editing program while processing out noise as necessary. The K-5 has a good reputation for having low noise levels at low to intermediate ISO settings.
- You could bracket the exposure with several photos and blend them together using a variety of methods to end up with a final image with more dynamic range than your camera is capable of capturing on its own in a single image.
- In other scenes it is possible to add light (using flashes, reflectors, studio lights, etc.) or subtract it (sun shades, choosing a different angle or direction to shoot in, moving into a shadow) to balance out the high and low light levels before you take the photo.

I'm sure that others will suggest more approaches.
08-25-2011, 02:04 AM   #3
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Thank you very much for your excellent suggestions. I have never taken a picture where the dynamic range is beyond the camera capabilities. I just started using the histogram so maybe previous shots were of a similar nature but I just didn't realize it. To me, it was just an average pic shot with my K5. I have never got involved in post processing using Photoshop etc. I kinda always thought that was cheating........ I did get my hands on a very good light meter so I probably should start to use that in conjunction with a grey card. As you suggest, meter off her face and see how that works out. Once again Steinbeck thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
08-25-2011, 02:24 AM   #4
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Why use a seperate light meter? Use camera spot metering, then set your camera up using whatever reading you get/exposure method you prefer.

08-25-2011, 05:19 AM   #5
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You could also kick the image over to RAW and shoot it that way if you're going to know you're mucking about with it later. You could also use the in-camera shadow/highlight correction options. That's basically geared towards what you're trying to do in fact. As far as I can tell it basically pulls both ends into the minimum 'viewable' range without blowing out or underexposing the highlights and shadows.
08-25-2011, 06:14 AM   #6
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You can do a lightmerge by developing this image 3 times from RAW with -2, 0 and +2. This is already possible in photoshop elements 8 and 9.

I did that once, but only for a building and not for a portrait.

By the way, this isn't sharp enough to me, but I don't see any exif.

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