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09-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #16
Ash
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Even in multi-segment metering can a scene be overexposed by the K-5 - it all depends on composition and meter-locking mode (do you have it linked to AF point and/or locked at focus confirmation?)

Essentially, if you want to avoid blowing highlights in high contrast situations, you'd spot meter the high key area, or centre-weight the scene and dial EV down to -0.5 or -1.0

09-22-2011, 06:13 PM   #17
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TS, post an image with the exposure problem with the full exif intact.
There are so many variables why you might be getting metering issues (ranging from metering mode selected and the proportion of darks to lights in the frame to something as simple as inadvertently locking exposure with the AE-L button), so posting an image with as much info would help.
09-22-2011, 07:45 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
Even in multi-segment metering can a scene be overexposed by the K-5 - it all depends on composition and meter-locking mode (do you have it linked to AF point and/or locked at focus confirmation?)

Essentially, if you want to avoid blowing highlights in high contrast situations, you'd spot meter the high key area, or centre-weight the scene and dial EV down to -0.5 or -1.0
Up until the K5 (I have little experience with the k7) the Pentax metering was very much in line with traditional metering and consistent with the other Pentax cameras I have used for many years.

If a scene had significant white areas or if I spot-metered on white, I would dial in somewhere near +1.5 stops of exposure compensation. Some lenses were a bit different than this (my 31 ltd, for example needed more + EV comp). Similarly, blacks required a similar amount of minus EV comp. This was just as it should be based upon the normal metering calibration that has been around for decades.

Frankly, I have no idea what the K5 metering is up to in many cases. Overexposing scenes with significant bright areas makes no sense to me. Maybe there is some logic to what the multi-segment metering is doing in these cases, but just as with P-TTL, Pentax isn't telling.

Ray
09-22-2011, 08:05 PM   #19
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I shot a golf tournament 2 weeks ago with of course white caps, white golf shoes, senior citizens with white hair. Almost every shot had blown highlights(used the 50-135). I'll try the -0.5 EV next time.

09-22-2011, 08:36 PM   #20
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same problem for me, especially after the switching from D700.
But now I know how to survive
09-22-2011, 11:12 PM   #21
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This is why you should have the blinking warnings turned on so that you immediately see if you there is a problem with the scene you are shooting.

Last edited by Gimbal; 10-10-2011 at 03:54 AM.
09-23-2011, 01:05 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
This is way you should have the blinking warnings turned on so that you immediately see if you there is a problem with the scene you are shooting.
Unfortunately, the blinkies refers to the RGB level of the JPEG preview (after the TRC & gamma correction is applied), not of individual colour channel clipping at the raw level. When only one colour channel is clipped that's when highlight recovery with raw is most likely to be successful.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms2.htm

Outback Photo - Highlight Recovery

Dan

Last edited by dosdan; 09-23-2011 at 01:22 AM.
09-23-2011, 01:24 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by dosdan Quote
Unfortunately, the blinkies refers to the luminance level of the JPEG preview (after the TRC & gamma correction is applied), not of individual colour channel clipping at the raw level. When only one colour channel is clipped that's when highlight recovery with raw is most likely to be successful.

Understanding Digital Camera Histograms: Luminosity and Color

Outback Photo - Highlight Recovery

Dan
Yes, and there is a certain WB one should use where the jpeg matches the raw file as well possible. But even if it's not perfect it's still a very good indicator, if there is massive blinking in the clouds you should do something.

09-23-2011, 02:30 AM   #24
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Well I don't do weddings, so I'm not into the white dresses. I tend to overexpose (+1/3 or +2/3) and have dynamic range expansion on. I don't mind loosing some details in my frame that are not of interest for me. But that is a personal way of photographing.
09-26-2011, 12:32 PM   #25
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I've dialed in -1EV for TAv, and occasionally I still lose highlights. Having said that, I've seen how much detail is in the shadows, so I'd rather underexpose.

Bret
09-29-2011, 11:11 PM   #26
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I'm finding my K-5 also has a tendency to blow highlights much more than my K-x. I now routinely use -0.3 or -0.7 whereas with my K-x I was defaulting to +0.3.
10-01-2011, 09:33 PM   #27
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Use the highlight correction function of the camera.
10-02-2011, 05:41 AM   #28
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All good advise here - even for Landscapes I will spot meter to a mid tone (closer to the highlight like the sky or a cloud) I have EV dialed in @ -0.5 - when pp much much eaiser to bring the details back from the shawdows than recover blown highlights. There is the camp that says ETTR but especially in a wedding envrionment you don't get too many chances for second or third shots. I have the highlight blinkies turned on as well - dark ones I am not too worried about light ones I look and see if a reshot is required.
10-02-2011, 06:12 AM   #29
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when shooting white I always underexpose just slightly then when processing play with the exposure, then if need be mask the whites while brightening. Did you shoot in RAW??

I am sure that has been mentioned. didnt read your responses.
10-10-2011, 03:10 AM   #30
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Whew. I thought it was just me that has had that problem since I can only go manual. Much of the time, fill-in flash saved the pic but I'm interested in going to Tahoe and getting white snow for the first time in 30 years(I'll be hot if it comes out grey or washed out since I hate being in the stuff to begin with).
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