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10-21-2011, 08:49 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by IIGQ4U Quote
Hi,

If you are shooting manual, I am not sure that you will really need AE Lock.
AE Lock is useful in one situation, shooting manual exposure. Pressing the AE Lock button while change the aperture will change the shutter speed to maintain the same exposure, or vice versa. It's called "Hyper Manual" in the documentation.

10-21-2011, 09:57 AM   #17
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Thanks for that info. If only I had read the manual. I will take a look..
10-21-2011, 01:10 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by IIGQ4U Quote
Hi,

If you are shooting manual, I am not sure that you will really need AE Lock.

In regard to the warmth of your photos, I would say there were a few that were a little cold to me in addition to the photograph already noted.
Well, you 'made' me do a re-calibration on both LCDs again, which was good, using OSX built-in calibration, as it's all I have right now except for some HD video charts. My IPS panel calibration comes out pretty close to where it was, but my MBP hi-res LCD has some distinct cooler/blue casting going on, which I think I've improved, but still haven't fixed completely - as the OSX calibration tool effectively combines RGB channels into greyscale manipulation (does various tests based in mostly grey/tinted grey images, then tries to derive the individual channel adjustments, vs pure color charts..), I'm sure it's not as good as a hardware puck colorimeter would be, but the two panels are closer to each other now, at least...will take a look through the flickr posted set again, and see if any seem overly cool on the IPS panel. I'll probably mostly ignore the MBP LCD until I can pick up a colorimeter. If I shift some sample test images 'halfway' between the IPS and MBP LCDs, I would wager than my IPS still has a bit of a red shift to it, warming images up, and the MBP has a bit of blue to it still. This is one of the images I'm using for comparisons:
http://www.highdisplay.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/how-to-get-true-comput...itor-color.jpg
(I've got other more typical charts and such, but it's not a bad single image to check tones, gamma, contrast) - amusingly, while the mbp LCD is still shifted slightly/oversaturated in blue, while both display proper separation on the typical 10% gradient white to black scales, on the 0%/pure white to 100%/pure black scale in the above link, which has a gradient split out more granular into 2% increments, the mbp lcd currently can resolve from around 4% to 90%, very close to the IPS panel, which is currently differentiating from 4%-94%.

If anyone has suggestions on reasonably priced colorimeter options, let me know - have seen completely mixed feedback on spyder 3 pro/elite/etc.
10-21-2011, 01:22 PM   #19
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My Macbook Pro is also set on the cooler side and was set via the in built calibration. How does this image appear on your screen?



I can't even see the 2% white shade on my Macbook Pro with its current settings. I also can't see 94%-98% black.


Last edited by IIGQ4U; 10-21-2011 at 06:42 PM.
10-21-2011, 02:28 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Chazz5 Quote
Thank you for your story. It and the replies helped me.

A general issue: sharpening K-5 images. The raw files seem to take a lot and need a lot. Maybe it is the K-5's 16 million pixels. Of course, you have to control the amount of sharpening; it is easy to go overboard.

Anyway, your Flickr set seems to be an example of the need. I applied a variation of sharpening to the shot of the rusted farm machine. It really makes a difference. If I were working on the raw file, I might select an area around the machine, heavily blurred around the border, and apply the sharpening there.

The variation of sharpening I recommend is called local contrast enhancement. I use Picture Window Pro, not Photoshop, so cannot give you a recipe; a Web search on the term will no doubt find lots. Local contrast enhancement avoids most of the halos (those white edges next to real edges) that ordinary sharpening often produces.
Thanks for the comments.
I did do some searching, and I understand this is basically the 'clarity' effect in LR...however, I'm pretty hopeless when it comes to applying masks/brushes in LR.
I assume in PWP or PS, you'd use the magic wand with a radius of some sort, and either select the machine, then reverse the mask, then apply the effect, or are you intentionally masking/selecting only a single specific area, vs 'everything outside of the machine'?

I've been meaning to pick up a bamboo tablet, as it would be useful for the day job as well, and obviously useful for PP...I definitely need to spend some time in LR and PS as well as just taking more pictures and learning..
10-21-2011, 03:47 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by IIGQ4U Quote
My Macbook Pro is also set on the cooler side and was set via the in built calibration. How does this image appear on your screen?
I can't even see the 2% white shade on my Macbook Pro with its current settings. I also can't see 94%-98% black.
That image has some 'pop' and warmth to it. The red-orange on the train is fairly bright on the IPS, slightly muted on the mbp, with a slight orange tint on the mbp that the IPS panel doesn't have. The bricks have definite orange/autumn colors in both panels, perhaps slightly more brown on the mbp, vs the ips which has slightly more red tendency to it. The sky looks good on both panels, but the IPS has a very slight tendency towards teal, with the mbp being perhaps a shade darker towards the blue side.

i think I've got the two fairly close right now, but there are still some differences.
In the test image link I sent 2 posts back, the girls skin, face and lips have a bit more red/pink to them (in a pleasing way) on the IPS, versus the MB is slightly 'more white'/muted.
If I look at this image across both screens, the iPS panel has a slightly darker, more towards brick red roof tiles, while the Mb is slightly more brown/muted:
[/url]


If I look at this one, the red is pretty deep on the IPS, and slightly tending more towards 'brick red' on the mbp.



If I compare the above to your train/cityscape, the above image is more red than your train, with the train being more red-orange.
Of course, I'm still unsure if this means my IPS is still pushing/over-saturating reds a bit, or if the MB is just still cooler and the IPS is 'in the ballpark,' but..

I did go back through the images on flickr with the new calibrations - and did notice a few weren't quite as saturated/warm as I was seeing them previously, so there were some subtle changes on the IPS panel re-calibration.
This one in particular seemed to be far too warm initially - I wanted this shot somewhat saturated, tending towards orange field a bit.
Can you tell me how these two display now?
flower pic - is the red deep, or is it muted/washed out or tinting towards orange or brown?
IMGP1484.jpg | Flickr - Photo Sharing! - warmer than before, although not 'popping' by any means..

Last edited by rtpguy; 10-21-2011 at 03:54 PM.
10-21-2011, 07:03 PM   #22
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Thanks for your help, I have adjusted my color profile to ARGB on the Macbook Pro and the photo I posted no longer appears warm.

In regard to your descriptions of the colors, it sounds like my Macbook Pro is somewhere in between your two panels. The roof tiles appear to be the orangish reddish brown color typical of these tiles. The tree and sky colors look spot on while the trees possess some of the autumn yellows and reds. Your flower sample is a very dark red, almost burgundy while the center has an almost banana like color with a slightly greenish undertone. The tone of the woman's lips in the sample you posted appears spot on possessing a pinkish, perfectly saturated, neutral and well exposed tone.

Last edited by IIGQ4U; 10-21-2011 at 09:09 PM.
10-21-2011, 08:57 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by rtpguy Quote
I assume in PWP or PS, you'd use the magic wand with a radius of some sort, and either select the machine, then reverse the mask, then apply the effect, or are you intentionally masking/selecting only a single specific area, vs 'everything outside of the machine'?
In PWP I make the selection by running the cursor around the machine until I get back to my starting point; then blur that selection's edge at a fairly wide radius. Apply whatever sharpening technique through the selection. In PWP, you can set the amount or strength of the effect for both the selected area and the remainder of the image. I might do local contrast enhancement at 25% strength on the selection and 13% on the remainder.

10-22-2011, 12:07 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by IIGQ4U Quote
Thanks for your help, I have adjusted my color profile to ARGB on the Macbook Pro and the photo I posted no longer appears warm.

In regard to your descriptions of the colors, it sounds like my Macbook Pro is somewhere in between your two panels. The roof tiles appear to be the orangish reddish brown color typical of these tiles. The tree and sky colors look spot on while the trees possess some of the autumn yellows and reds. Your flower sample is a very dark red, almost burgundy while the center has an almost banana like color with a slightly greenish undertone. The tone of the woman's lips in the sample you posted appears spot on possessing a pinkish, perfectly saturated, neutral and well exposed tone.
Thanks - I think along with the confirmations you gave, I've got the IPS panel reasonably close, and the MB still off slightly, but much closer to the IPS at this time. Which I think overall means - done messing with it until I can pick up a colorimeter at some point in the future, or do some prints to compare. I grabbed my tablet and did some comparison there as well - the tablet is slightly muted vs the IPS, but it's reasonably close, and I'm not sure I'd trust a tablet calibration 'out of the box' anyways.

Re: ARGB - Maybe I'm wrong on this one, but I'd do some reading on ARGB, assuming you mean Adobe RGB, as web publication will need to convert back into sRGB space (smaller color space), and it can cause some odd effects in some cases. I'm not positive if all or even most photo printers support aRGB vs sRGB. Here's far too much reading on that, if you're interested: (the site isn't too well organized, but a lot of good info nonetheless)
SRGB 2.2 GAMMA COLOR SPACE Target Color Space for the Internet
10-22-2011, 01:26 PM   #25
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Oops, that was an error, I meant Standard RGB SRGB, I was thinking A because that is the Camera profile mentioned in the EXIF.

Thanks for pointing that out and glad tom hear that your IPS is better calibrated.

I believe the Mac Gamma is 1.8.
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