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12-02-2011, 10:27 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
You are a brave soul..
Or just ignorant like me. Put my 45 CT-1 on the K10D without knowing about trigger voltages

Nothing bad happened; checked later and it had a 'safe' serial number.

12-02-2011, 10:39 AM   #17
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I'm with the flash sat so long it fried on first flash crowd.
If this was a newer metz, quantum or Pentax flash with P-TTL and high cost of replacement I would look at a repair (certainly repairs are possible if the parts are still available whether it is worth it or not is another story.
I'd probably look for a good lower cost P-TTL like the Metz 48-AF1 a couple of hundred dollars and excellent flexible performance. the 58AF would be better if you want to get into Multi flash setups (or the AF 540 Pentax) but they will double the cost
The Promaster P-TTL replacement for yours (the 7500) is an excellent value as well and about 130 (someone here got one for $9 from KEH WOW)
12-02-2011, 10:41 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by sterretje Quote
Or just ignorant like me. Put my 45 CT-1 on the K10D without knowing about trigger voltages

Nothing bad happened; checked later and it had a 'safe' serial number.
I've used a CT-5 with all my cameras(Pentax and Oly) except the K7 without the Wein and no issues. (knock on wood) mostly i have it for the rare time i shoot the Bronica indoors and use other flashes for my Digital cameras
12-02-2011, 11:25 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by eddie1960 Quote
I'm with the flash sat so long it fried on first flash crowd.
If this was a newer metz, quantum or Pentax flash with P-TTL and high cost of replacement I would look at a repair (certainly repairs are possible if the parts are still available whether it is worth it or not is another story.
I'd probably look for a good lower cost P-TTL like the Metz 48-AF1 a couple of hundred dollars and excellent flexible performance. the 58AF would be better if you want to get into Multi flash setups (or the AF 540 Pentax) but they will double the cost
The Promaster P-TTL replacement for yours (the 7500) is an excellent value as well and about 130 (someone here got one for $9 from KEH WOW)

So I guess that seems to make sense that the old flashes both fried; either bad capacitor or filament.

On a followup, I am still looking for an inexpensive flash. Obviously, I am now leary of purchasing any used flashes, unless the seller can pretest the flash before delivery. Promaster does still make inexpensive flashes, and older models can be had for a song (even new). Does anyone have an opinion whether the flashes are complete junk, and should be avoided, or still of reasonable quality, but not like a new pentax or metz flash. Since I rarely use a flash, I'd rather not spend the money, but I do need a flash from time to time.

Thanks

12-02-2011, 11:39 AM   #20
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although I have not personally had an experience of either flash tube (Not filiment the flash is actually an arc in a xenon gas tube) or the capacitor fail on my flashes, even after they sat for some time, however, I would not write off the possibiolity.

One thing no one has mentioned is that regardless of functioning or not, the flash is not compatible with the K5, in other than manual mode, or AUTO if the flash has its own sensor.

the TTL flash of the 1990's from pentax cameras is different than the P-TTL flash used in most DSLRs.
12-02-2011, 11:42 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by sterretje Quote
Or just ignorant like me. Put my 45 CT-1 on the K10D without knowing about trigger voltages

Nothing bad happened; checked later and it had a 'safe' serial number.
Isn't that flash connected to the PC socket? That's specified as safe up to 200V on Pentax, which in my experience few flashes exceed. (I've used one at 190V quite a bit with my K20 without problems.)
12-02-2011, 11:51 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
in other than manual mode, or AUTO if the flash has its own sensor.

the TTL flash of the 1990's from pentax cameras is different than the P-TTL flash used in most DSLRs.
Lowell touched on a very good point, you have the k-5 (advanced level camera) why skim on the flash... and take advantage of P-TTL on the flash. In fact, there was one used AF-360 on the market place a little while back at a very reasonable price. Despite all the negative comments about how PTTL compare with the flash system other brands, I find it to be quite easy (and mostly quite accurate as well) for my usage. With the k-5, you will likely not use the hot-shoe flash very much, but there are times that you wish you had used one especially when you needed to use HSS (I think the built-in has slow sync).

Last edited by aleonx3; 12-02-2011 at 11:59 AM.
12-02-2011, 11:56 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
Lowell touched on a very good point, you have the k-5 (advanced level camera) why skim on the flash... and take advantage of P-TTL on the flash. In face, there was one used AF-360 on the market place a little while back at a very reasonable price. Despite all the negative comments about how PTTL compare with the flash system other brands, I find it to be quite easy (and mostly quite accurate as well) for my usage. With the k-5, you will likely not use the hot-shoe flash very much, but there are times that you wish you had used one especially when you needed to use HSS (I think the built-in has slow sync).
I have the 360AF and if I was buying again I'd go with the Metz 48AF1 (closest model) as the 360 head doesn't rotate. The 540AF OTOH is an excellent flash in most respects

The Sigmas are pretty good but have reliability issues

12-02-2011, 11:59 AM   #24
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Whatever you decide, check the forum first for the model in combination with the K5. The K5 is a bit 'grumpy' when it comes to third party flashes.
12-02-2011, 12:04 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by drougge Quote
Isn't that flash connected to the PC socket? That's specified as safe up to 200V on Pentax, which in my experience few flashes exceed. (I've used one at 190V quite a bit with my K20 without problems.)
Ah, that was you; I already wanted to post that but was not sure where I had seen it.

BTW, the K10D does not have a PC socket. Do you know if on the dSLR models with PC socket can take the same voltage on the X contact? I guess they are basically in parallel.
12-02-2011, 12:47 PM   #26
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Ah, I just assumed the K10 and K20 were the same there as well, they're so similar in most ways.

There isn't any rule as such that PC sockets can take a higher voltage, but in practice I doubt any manufacturer would bother to put one there without protection, since you can just use an adapter to your hotshoe otherwise. I haven't actually checked all Pentax cameras even, but I would imagine they are all the same, and other manufacturers similar if not identical.
12-02-2011, 01:57 PM   #27
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My first professional flash that I used for weddings had a 510 volt battery in it, but actual working voltage was around 330. It was a Braun RL 515. The electronics consisted of a large capacitor and the 515 volt battery. No voltage reduction was used on the pc outlet because the cameras back then could take several hundred volts, the switches were nothing more than mechanical contacts. Newer cameras use solid state devices to switch the voltage and I would not want to use one of the older flashes on my camera.

When I bought my Leica M6 TTL in 1998 I did some research and found that Leica suggested using a voltage reducer on the camera if using high voltage strobes. I tested my Vivitar 285 HV pc voltage and found it over 200 volts, thus I bought the Wein trigger to protect my camera. Today I use a Sunpak 544 strobes and I have tested the pc voltage on those. They run about 5 1/2 volts, so they are safe but I still use the Wein trigger just to be sure.

I would not take a chance on using just any flash on our cameras because if you fry the electronics, well it will be expensive.
12-03-2011, 09:10 AM   #28
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Just get a 540AF or a Metz 48/58 and be done with it.
You'll be very glad you did. Once you have P-TTL, you'll likely find yourself using flash much more than you used to. Not to mention the built in wireless function which is quite handy.
Flag it and bounce it, or bounce card it where no bounce is available, and enjoy the great results.
01-17-2012, 08:33 PM   #29
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wow good thing that I didn't read this first. I have an old AF400FTZ flash that I have been using on my K-r. It has not fried the camera (yet) , so am I foolish to think it won't. Is it still possible that it might? I do notice that it works only when it wants too. (takes forever to recharge) but it has been so many years since I used it last, I don't remember what it used to work like.
01-17-2012, 09:36 PM - 1 Like   #30
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If I recall correctly, any Pentax flash is safe. You can measure the trigger voltage with a digital volt meter (multimeter) to make sure, but personally I would not worry if the camera survived the first usage.
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