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03-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #76
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QuoteOriginally posted by Philoslothical Quote
I can't see any pics in your last post, and only one in the post up above (that indicates there are two). Not sure what's up with that, but thought you'd want to know.
I think you need to click on the little boxes with the red cross. you will have to excuse me... Im not very good oh here lol. If all else fails the pics I think can be seen in my albums.
Thank you !

03-10-2012, 10:14 AM   #77
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Don't feel bad - I had a hell of a time getting pics to display in that 'compare AF grid' post. Something about needing URL= & [img] in the same 'sentence'. What stinks is when you go back to edit, its hard to even see your html codes & link, so it was a lot of trial and error.
03-10-2012, 10:59 AM   #78
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QuoteOriginally posted by jmg257 Quote
Don't feel bad - I had a hell of a time getting pics to display in that 'compare AF grid' post. Something about needing URL= & [img] in the same 'sentence'. What stinks is when you go back to edit, its hard to even see your html codes & link, so it was a lot of trial and error.
Thank you Just thought it was me been fik lol
The thread itself seems to have helped a lot of people.
Which Im realy happy about. The pics are from those I mentioned where i took 512. Some really good shots
but most are her wearing nothing but hobnail boots etc lol And no to your next question lol
I dont think it would go down to well lol lol lol
03-10-2012, 11:34 AM   #79
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Well, the Post Your Photos forum has a NSFW category...

Seriously though, if you're having trouble reading the text in the edit post field, click on "Go Advanced" and it'll open up the full editor, just like when making a post.

As for IMG tags, do them like this:

HTML Code:
[IMG]http://URLtoimagehere[/IMG]
If you want the pic to link to its source, then it's like this:

HTML Code:
[URL="http://URLtoimagehere"][IMG]http://URLtoimagehere[/IMG][/URL]
Adam, if you happen to see this, it looks like your CODE tags are broken. The HTML tag works, but the CODE tags try to parse the image above, rather than treating it like content in a <pre> tag. CODE tags should ignore bbcode entirely.

04-22-2012, 11:06 PM   #80
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Is the sensor size really that big?

The theory about the size of the sensor had been quite useful, seems to help me "work" the AF system "better".

But the other day, I try to did a test.

I focus on a car licence plate through my window with blinds. The gab between the blind blade is very small, just about a bit bigger than the centre square AF marking. The AF does sometime hunt between the blind and the licence plate, but it can latch on to the licence plate lettering most of the time (in good day light).

I was a bit surprised by this.

Maybe the bright sun light and the good contrast of the lettering on the licence plate helps.

Not sure if the AF sensor does really have issue with focusing on smaller area. What do you guys think?

I have yet to do more test, but would just like to share this and get some feedback from more experienced people.

-kk
05-19-2012, 02:15 PM   #81
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QuoteOriginally posted by kkx Quote
The theory about the size of the sensor had been quite useful, seems to help me "work" the AF system "better".

But the other day, I try to did a test.

I focus on a car licence plate through my window with blinds. The gab between the blind blade is very small, just about a bit bigger than the centre square AF marking. The AF does sometime hunt between the blind and the licence plate, but it can latch on to the licence plate lettering most of the time (in good day light).

I was a bit surprised by this.

Maybe the bright sun light and the good contrast of the lettering on the licence plate helps.

Not sure if the AF sensor does really have issue with focusing on smaller area. What do you guys think?

I have yet to do more test, but would just like to share this and get some feedback from more experienced people.

-kk
Its not a therory lol... its a simple fact. If you wish to see exactly where your focus point are just put a black dot on a white piece of paper.
05-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #82
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If you really want to *see* the right size of the af points, set live view AF to phase detect (in the live view menu). Then, focus on the edges of things and you'll see that the entire rectangle of the 9 cross points is COVERED by the AF points.
05-25-2012, 08:00 AM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by Winder Quote
My second biggest complaint about Pentax AF is the golf ball sized center AF point. When shooting singers and musicians I have found the AF locked on to the microphone in front of the face even though it was outside of the center circle. When I tested it I found the center AF point was slightly bigger than the center circle and would grab high contrast objects on the edge before it would focus in the center. Now that I understand how big it is I can work around it, but it does slow me down at times.

Pentax needs at least 21 points spread out or they need to reduce the center AF point by 50%. A VF with 1.5x magnification would be nice too. At F/2 in low light it is really hard to tell if critical focus is on the eyes or 4" in front of the face on the microphone.
Yep, I know that feeling and the K-30 has no AF-on button, to separate focus and metering.

Btw. I don't really think that the size of the center cross is as large as the semi cricles. I think the size of the center AF spot is correct, but it is located some place within the semi circles. I always consider my center AF spot to be half a square to the left and half a square up.

05-25-2012, 09:00 AM   #84
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
Yep, I know that feeling and the K-30 has no AF-on button, to separate focus and metering.

Btw. I don't really think that the size of the center cross is as large as the semi cricles. I think the size of the center AF spot is correct, but it is located some place within the semi circles. I always consider my center AF spot to be half a square to the left and half a square up.
I can assure you it goes and is as big as the semi circles.
In fact you can safely use the spot metering markings as a fairly accurate guide. If you wish to see and test its very easy. Just get a piece of white paper and put a dot on it. The rest are the same size too. at least you can use the semi circles as a prety accurate guide though.
05-25-2012, 09:02 AM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
the K-30 has no AF-on button
Sure it does - there's an AF/AEL button right on the back. You should be able to configure the camera to do AF only when that is pressed.
05-25-2012, 12:29 PM   #86
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QuoteOriginally posted by westmill Quote
I can assure you it goes and is as big as the semi circles.
In fact you can safely use the spot metering markings as a fairly accurate guide.
Yep, there's truth to this. I find that on complicated scenes, like something sitting in tree branches, that putting just the edge of that circle on the outer edge of what I want to focus on, then teasing it in a bit, is a good way to get a lock through structure. There's a bit of a knack to it, but learning to make the most of the ridiculously large points is an important part of enjoying the camera.
05-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #87
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
Sure it does - there's an AF/AEL button right on the back. You should be able to configure the camera to do AF only when that is pressed.
It'll likely be like the older models without AF-button, where the OK button can be set to enable AF.
05-25-2012, 02:07 PM   #88
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QuoteOriginally posted by alohadave Quote
It'll likely be like the older models without AF-button, where the OK button can be set to enable AF.
If that were the case, why would they put a button labeled AF/AE-L on it? Emphasis on the AF. I'd expect it to function just like the current crop of cameras, with just the button placement a bit different. I think I like the new positioning, too. The AF button on my K-r takes a little bit of thumb contortion to use.

I just wish the AF button would wake up the camera. Having to half press the shutter release to wake it up, then AF to focus, then shutter release again to shoot, it's an unnecessary extra step.
06-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #89
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Great thread. Ironically, having used the Kx (without LED AF indicators) helped me figure this out fairly quickly with the K5.{MSM patting himself on the back} I too thought that my lenses were all back focusing badly. I dialed in +10 for most all lenses. I was about to send the K5 in to the service center. But, I found that the BF was not consistent. Then I remembered trying to figure out where the AF sensor was within the semicircle guides on the Kx and tried it for my K5. Once I figured where the sensor seemed to be located, the "BF" went away. Basically, I reset all my microadjustments. I don't know if this makes any sense, but in landscape orientation i try to use the top half of the semicircle area above the red LED to place my point of focus. On Portrait orientation (right side of camera facing up), I tend to hug the top of the right most semicircle. This seems to work for me.

Unfortunately for me, my new since March, 2012 K5 (for those interested built 8/2011. I knew I should have retuned it for a newer built one) began the so called Mirror Flop! Of course, it had to happen during my family vacation. So it is now truly go to the service center.

(Rant on)
You know what is worse than not getting to take some family beach shots with your new $1k camera? Sitting on the balcony, watching all the other families taking their pictures! (yes, that is bitterness you sense in my written words!) Anyway, I did get a good laugh at a man I caught putting his gitzo tripod with a RRS ballhead away while his son tried to carefully balance his N*kon on a 5 gallon bucket! I told my wife that his tripod/ballhead combo cost more than my camera. Unfortunately, today his tripod takes as good of pictures as my K5. (rant off)
06-01-2012, 11:32 PM   #90
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Here's a new bit of information...

All the cross type sensors are in that large vf scribed box = 9.

Ignore the center sensor within that large vf scribed box and just consider the 8 cross sensors around the perimeter of the box for the sake of this discussion.

On my K5,
a. When i move an object of high contrast into the large box from the left box side, the left side sensors don't activate until the red vf indicator is on that high contrast area. Same with the top, bottom and right sides of the large box except that each time the object has to move into the scribed vf box from the outside areas.

b. When i have an object of high contrast already inside the large box and move it toward the 3 left box side sensors, they activate way before the object reaches them. Same with the top, bottom and right side sensors of the 9 sensor box.

c. Another way of saying this is that the left box side sensors are accurate to the red indicator when approached by an object from their left side. When the left box side sensors are approached by an object from their right side, they activate way before the red indicator dot is reached.

Note: this knowledge might help in some situations, but primarily i use the center sensor.

On a different subject, I don't get why Pentax continues to use such large sensors, unless it costs more for smaller sensors. Do large diameter sensors collect more light?? If so, one would expect Pentax AF to be more sensitive in low light.
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