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03-26-2012, 07:48 PM   #16
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Camera brightness at full for the LCD might be correct when viewing the lcd in full sunlight though but when you go for example indoors you need to tune the brightness down.
There is just no way to keep the LCD accurate, the only thing you can do is to learn how to read the histogram but that's not easy... well reading it is but knowing when it's good or bad is another story.

03-26-2012, 08:05 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Anvh Quote
but when you go for example indoors you need to tune the brightness down. There is just no way to keep the LCD accurate, the only thing you can do is to...
Hi
All true, and it is a real bugger. This is why I don't ever consider buying a camera without a proper VW.
But there is a way out to get an accurate reading even in bright sunlight. Not all the time , but in critical cases I use a Hoodman Loupe. For example if I take a lot of shots of more or less the same motive and more or less the same light condidtions, I take one or two sample shots and check these by looking through the Loupe. This Loup totally shuts out any ambient light. If this looks right I carry on shooting until I come to a changed setting, I then repeat the process. Now, this works very well when shooting weddings outside.

Greetings
03-27-2012, 09:50 AM   #18
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That might indeed work very well.
We all have different shooting styles though, i try not to look on the LCD only when it's needed.
I shoot in RAW so things are a bit simpler then since you want to collect "data" and not capture the photo perfectly so i can fairly easily see on the Histogram what i need to do to get the settings so that I collect the data i need to make the photo.
I use M mode and press the green button to let the camera set the exposure he thinks is right and i look at the result, i judge if i need to over or under expose and then take a second test shot, most of the time i nail it with that shot and then it's simply shooting, shooting and more shooting and keeping my eye on any changes in the light. If the light change then i start over again.

It's good that developing photos don't cost much money anymore XD
03-27-2012, 11:36 AM   #19
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hi all...
after read all comment and suggestion here.. i assume that the LCD cam is not reliable at all to judge the good of the pic.. and even the histogram also very hard to understand.
so the safe way is to shoot in raw... sorry for my bad, this is the first time i hold a DSLR.. never before..
may i ask 1 question. If shooting raw is to get the data to be edit later.. is the any different between raw file in k5 or k7 or other brand like nikon or canon because all we need is just a raw file?

03-27-2012, 12:04 PM   #20
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Everyone has an in-house format, some have the Adobe DNG, but you need codecs for viewing any RAW. Nikon has NEF, Canon has CR2, Pentax has PEF, but can also shoot in DNG. Yipee!
03-27-2012, 12:17 PM   #21
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300+ shots is nothing for processing. In june i will cover a 6 day event noon till 4 am every day. I'll shoot 800-1200 shots a day in wildly varying light mostly without flash. I batch process every morning and can review and grab the best quickly, group like exposures and batch process all based on one parameter and take a quick look to see if more needs to be done before sending them to an ftp for the various people i'll be shooting for (usually i'm freelancing this event for 3-4 different people)
All in LR3.2, but previous on my deadly slow old system with CS3 I did it in bridge much the same way
You're right in that correct exposure simplifies things. I usually shoot dng+jpeg. if the exposure and shot are where i want it i just use the untouched jpeg

As for the Raw I shoot DNG since it's pretty universal and on new cameras it sometimes takes time for the PEF update to hit the various software.
03-27-2012, 12:44 PM   #22
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The LCD is pretty much just to make sure you got it framed like you intended. Look at the histogram, or at least the "blinkies" (over/under exposed areas flash) to see if you actually got a good exposure.

If you're shooting professionally, you owe it to your clients to learn all these things, and not at their expense. 300 images for PP is not much. Look at programs like Lightroom (or plenty of others) that will speed your post-processing.

Asking questions is a good start. Keep practicing and having fun. Just don't misrepresent yourself to get jobs. You can wind up in big trouble if someone pays you for shooting their once-in-a-lifetime event and you miss the shots. People get sued for less.

You're a lot closer than you think to learning these things (I'd say a good weekend or two will get you well on your way). Good luck.
03-27-2012, 01:44 PM   #23
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lol what adds to the complication is that some software will interpret your raw data in its own way, differently from other software!

03-28-2012, 05:52 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by rfortson Quote
People get sued for less.
In the litigation-happy US of A, correct!

Not so much in the rest of the civilized world.
03-28-2012, 06:52 AM   #25
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QuoteQuote:
Not so much in the rest of the civilized world.
Amen to that!
03-28-2012, 07:15 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
lol what adds to the complication is that some software will interpret your raw data in its own way, differently from other software!
That's always the case.
Most viewers including the camera use the JPG preview embedded in the RAW so it doesn't even use the same data.
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