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03-24-2012, 03:55 PM   #1
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Preview at LCD not same at PC monitor

Hi all,
I have a problem with my LCD preview. When i snap a pic, it's look good at the LCD but when i upload it to my PC, it either overexpose or under. I don't understand why but this happened especially when i use a flash (metz 58 AF2 - use TTL)
I shoot in jpeg. I can still correct the pic using photoshop but it just consume too much time because i shoot for wedding an potrait photo. When i shoot the potrait photo and show to that person they are very impressed with the pic at the LCD preview but when i upload it to the pc, it just make me shame with the quality of the pic.

Pls help me..
Thanks

03-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #2
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The LCD on the camera shouldn't be used to check exposure because the viewing condition various a lot so the only way to judge exposure is to use the histogram so learn how to read that.

Also the LCD on the camera is not calibrated. Is the PC monitor you use calibrated?
03-24-2012, 04:19 PM   #3
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Shoot raw and work with the computer. Should also calibrate monitor if you are doing this professionally.
03-24-2012, 04:46 PM   #4
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Enable the "show bright/dark area" option in preview mode- underexposed/overexposed parts of your photo will then be highlighted


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03-24-2012, 07:19 PM   #5
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Hi There
Anvh - i have calibrate my monitor but not the LCD on camera. I'll try to learn to read the histogram. Anyway how to enable histogram at the LCD?

Na Horuk - I can shoot raw and do PP on my pc but i want to make sure all my pic is accurate as per what i saw in LCD because i want to reduce my working time at PC. To do PP on 300++ pic is something not recomended.

Adam - thanks.. i'll try it. Anyway any idea how to enable histogram at LCD? because i saw this at my friend's NIkon D90.. i think this will help me lot.
03-24-2012, 07:34 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by mr.wizard Quote
Hi There
Anvh - i have calibrate my monitor but not the LCD on camera. I'll try to learn to read the histogram. Anyway how to enable histogram at the LCD?
I don't think that you can do that: calibrate the camera LCD screen. - correct me if I am wrong.
Na Horuk - I can shoot raw and do PP on my pc but i want to make sure all my pic is accurate as per what i saw in LCD because i want to reduce my working time at PC. To do PP on 300++ pic is something not recomended.
The camera LCD is very small compared to your computer monitor, so don't expect the same rendering.
Adam - thanks.. i'll try it. Anyway any idea how to enable histogram at LCD? because i saw this at my friend's NIkon D90.. i think this will help me lot.
Menu button on the camera > second set of "Menus" > "Bright/Dark area - check that and you will now get highlights and shadows which are showing as over/underexposed.

If you have a K5 ... For the histogram(s) - Operating Manual: pp. 32-33. All there !
JP
03-25-2012, 05:01 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by mr.wizard Quote
but it just consume too much time because i shoot for wedding
Ah, the bane of the professional photographer. (are you ?)

You should shoot RAW+JPG then you have the best of both worlds. (The extra MB should not matter, storage is cheap now) But RAW should give you the best chance to recover from disasters and it would be a disaster if you could not rescue wedding pics.

I am not sure why your cam LCD and your computer monitor don't even match near enough. The default PENTAX LCD setting is not bad really. Perhaps you have inadvertently "fiddled" the LCD setting out of plumb. It can happen. Have you tied a camera default re-set ?

You say your monitor is calibrated, but don't count on it. If it was a long time ago it may now be out of "plumb" also. Or perhaps something went wrong during calibration and you think it is calibrated when in reality it isn't. Also some calibration gear on he market is better than others. For the better ones you need to spend a bit of money.
Try to view you pictures on someone else's monitor to find out if your monitor is up to par, or not.

You should also invest in some good Raw converter software. You need software which can run your 300 RAW files in a batch. This way the 300+ image job is not quite so daunting. The quickest one for that is AfterShot Pro. (formally Bibble Pro) I use it, it runs the pants off a Kangaroo.

Greetings

Last edited by Schraubstock; 03-25-2012 at 05:07 AM.
03-25-2012, 05:12 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by mr.wizard Quote
Hi There
Anvh - i have calibrate my monitor but not the LCD on camera. I'll try to learn to read the histogram. Anyway how to enable histogram at the LCD?

Na Horuk - I can shoot raw and do PP on my pc but i want to make sure all my pic is accurate as per what i saw in LCD because i want to reduce my working time at PC. To do PP on 300++ pic is something not recomended.

Adam - thanks.. i'll try it. Anyway any idea how to enable histogram at LCD? because i saw this at my friend's NIkon D90.. i think this will help me lot.
Like is being said you can't calibrate the LCD on the camera so there is no way you can match and the LCD changes depending in what kind of light you've it certainly for brightness so there is no sense in calibrating it to begin with. So what it comes down to is that the LCD is not to be trusted, it is as simple as that.

300+ raw is easy. Shoot in manual though so that most of the shots have the same lighting, if so you can batch process 5 up to 20 photos at a time so it's more like editing 20 photos and maybe some extra care on the one that are really super.
When i come home from a concert i've around 600 photos, those are all processed in 1 or 2 nights.... so around 4 to 6 hours.

03-25-2012, 06:41 AM   #9
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Try changing the brightness setting on the camera to normal.
03-25-2012, 11:08 AM   #10
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Sorry for double-posting but you can calibrate the screen on the camera. It's somewhere after page 300 in the manual.
03-25-2012, 11:26 AM   #11
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What did you use to calibrate your monitor? What does the histogram look like when you open the image in Photoshop? Does it represent what you are seeing on the monitor?
03-25-2012, 12:04 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Giklab Quote
Sorry for double-posting but you can calibrate the screen on the camera. It's somewhere after page 300 in the manual.
Yeah but it's of no use because of the different lighting conditions you view the LCD in there is no way you can get it accurate or you need to calibrate it every time before you view your photos...
03-25-2012, 12:47 PM   #13
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I think this is universal.....the LCD give you some idea of what you got, and the sharpness, but otherwise it can deliver a real surprise when you download to a computer. I've heard it from every user of every brand, so it is not surprising you found it right away.
Regards!
03-26-2012, 10:05 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Anvh Quote
Like is being said you can't calibrate the LCD on the camera so there is no way you can match and the LCD changes depending in what kind of light you've it certainly for brightness so there is no sense in calibrating it to begin with. So what it comes down to is that the LCD is not to be trusted, it is as simple as that.

300+ raw is easy. Shoot in manual though so that most of the shots have the same lighting, if so you can batch process 5 up to 20 photos at a time so it's more like editing 20 photos and maybe some extra care on the one that are really super.
When i come home from a concert i've around 600 photos, those are all processed in 1 or 2 nights.... so around 4 to 6 hours.
i see,,, thanks for the idea on how to do batch raw processing..

QuoteOriginally posted by Giklab Quote
Try changing the brightness setting on the camera to normal.
i'll try in. current setting is at high brightness

QuoteOriginally posted by Giklab Quote
Sorry for double-posting but you can calibrate the screen on the camera. It's somewhere after page 300 in the manual.
ok noted..
03-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by mr.wizard Quote
i'll try in. current setting is at high brightness
Guess what I was doing once? Camera on full brightness, PC monitor at full brightness and let's go edit something so it looks a bit underexposed, just to bring out the highlights.
Count in that I was shooting in AdobeRGB...
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