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03-25-2012, 06:27 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by jcp5 Quote
stormtech--- Glad to see you are sending it in for calibration while it is under warranty. You don't have to worry about CRIS saying there is nothing wrong----they will do the cal because it is faster. If there is anything more to it they will repair. Make sure you record your "USER" settings because they will clear them. Take out your memory card and battery before sending in. If there is anything else you think isn't right put it on your repair form, no matter how small or random and the tech will check it.

vsmouli--- This isn't a AF defect with the K5----It's just bad calibration/QC when manufactured, for this camera. Luck of draw. Make sure you buy the Pentax 2 yr extended warranty for $20 because it is such a good deal!
Thanks jcp5, I forgot to buy the 2-year warranty, Hope it is not too late, I will be getting my k-5 tomorrow.

03-25-2012, 07:02 PM   #17
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Don't send your lens into CRIS. I sent them a reference lens in November. They sent it back damaged. I sent it back to them for a courtesy repair, and I still don't have it back. Supposedly back order on the part. It has been a frustrating experience, especially since they got insurance money from my damaged lens, and I am missing one of my favorites.
03-25-2012, 07:22 PM   #18
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vsmouli --No it's not to late. You have 90 days from date of purchase. Adorama and B&H are out of stock but you can order now and it will be honored. They will charge when they ship. Enjoy your new K5!
(1yr manf + 2 yr ext. = 3 yr warr)
03-25-2012, 07:40 PM   #19
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Thanks for the helpful info folks - the body is packed up and being shipped to AZ tomorrow.

03-25-2012, 11:01 PM   #20
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I have the same problem. I had K-5 with Pentax-DA 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 WR for about 2 and 1/2 month. I tried everything. I was adjusting for the front and back focusing, no luck. I had extended warranty, so a have been able to return my lens and get the other one. The outcome was the same. Than I changed the body, and was shooting for a couple days, and the result was the same. The pictures were out of focus, no quality at all. The background was unclear. I've been pulling my hair out same as you did. Fortunately I decide to change my K-5 before my 90 days exchange camera policy expired. I went to Henry’s and spoke to the store manager and show a couple of the pictures that I was taking lately. I been lucky, and have been able to exchanged my K-5 for Nikon D7000 with Nikkor 18-105 mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens. My headache is gone. I like this camera. The pictures are 100% in focus with a good exposure. I get used to K-5, and I like its simple controls and construction of the camera. The problem is too many people have the problem with focusing and the mitering, to bad that Pentax has a little attention to proper calibration of their products. When you look on the characteristic of K-5 and D7000 the K-5 should be better camera however in reality it is not, and I considering myself lucky to be able to get D7000. If you have a chance to do the same, go for it. You not be sorry, even if you have to spend a bit more, I guarantee that.

Last edited by vmayak; 03-25-2012 at 11:12 PM.
03-25-2012, 11:29 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by vmayak Quote
The problem is too many people have the problem with focusing and the mitering
You are generalising. One or two people with problems (that may not even be hardware related...) doesn't mean every K-5 with every lens has problems.

QuoteOriginally posted by vmayak Quote
Nikon D7000 with Nikkor 18-105 mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR lens. My headache is gone. I like this camera. The pictures are 100% in focus with a good exposure.
I guess all the other Nikon D7000 users with focus problems must be wrong then:

nikon d7000 focus problem - Google Search

'This thread is for auto focus problems with the D7000.'

'Many Nikon D7000 users have recently been complaining about back focus problems.'

'I had to contact Nikon customer service yesterday as my D7000 has been having focus problems. '

'I returned my first D7000 body because of a severe back focus..'

'D7000 Focus Problems - Sold it on eBay'

'Auto Focus problem in Brand New Nikon D7000'

'Looks like Nikon is doing a-la Toyota -- they are slipping in their QC .... I've been having quite annoying back focus problem with my D7000'

'my Nikon D40 was much sharper than my D7000 and I never had focus problems with any of my lenses on it '..

etc. And that's just page one of a Google search...

Clearly the D7000 is a broken camera too

Last edited by rawr; 03-25-2012 at 11:35 PM.
03-26-2012, 06:42 AM - 1 Like   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote


Clearly the D7000 is a broken camera too
There are also a lot of people who can't run a test to save their lives, but they insist on testing their equipment to destruction so that they can complain about something.
03-26-2012, 08:24 AM   #23
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Same problems here, typically the camera is off not the lenses.
There is a software adjustment to move the zero setting of the AF fine adjustment at some other point. One of my lenses was off the screen and I send the camera for readjustment.

Now, someone need to explain to me why lenses have different fine adjustment values. The distance between AF sensor and image sensor should be the same for all lenses disregarding any offset in lens assembly. Is it a software problem?

You should not use flat surfaces parallel to the camera to judge fine adjustment, use an angled plane to judge depth of field for a much better adjustment.

03-26-2012, 09:09 AM   #24
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Wow, do the same people switch cars after having the first issue? Or their marriage/relationships?

If something needs adjustment, get it looked after, then move on and enjoy what you have.

Gerrit

(who is not fixated on finding things wrong with any of his stuff.)
03-26-2012, 11:12 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
Now, someone need to explain to me why lenses have different fine adjustment values.
Because lenses, like the sensor assembly in any DSLR, are handled by humans and get a lot more "handling" on their way to you. Each of your lenses were (partly) assembled by hand and calibrated to certain tolerances at the factory, then put in its box, which was squished into a bigger box, which was then dropped into a shipping container, which was pulled by a truck, then dropped onto a boat, then unloaded onto another truck, then unpacked onto a loading dock, then stuffed into a distributors truck, then placed onto a camera store back shelf, then finally got into your hands (unless you bought online!).

Even before all that, no two lenses (even the same brand and type, made by a single person, and shipped together) will be exactly the same when you get down to micrometer focus adjustment. They are consumer goods, and they are variable even under the best QC.

Don't fight it, just adjust.
03-26-2012, 01:48 PM   #26
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I also recently picked up a DA*55 and was driving myself crazy with OOF pictures or shots that appeared to back focused. I couldn't quite pinpoint what was going on for several days, but was considering sending the lens back. All of my issues were while trying to use the lens wide open or close to it. Long story short, I believe it had a lot more to do with my technique (or lack there of) when shooting wide open. The distances I was commonly at + using the method of focus and recompose seemed to make the focus point appear behind where is should have been. With such a thin DOF I believe I was moving the lens to much for this to work accurately. I have had much better luck shifting the focus point when using this lens wide open.
03-26-2012, 10:55 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by ataunton Quote
I also recently picked up a DA*55 and was driving myself crazy with OOF pictures or shots that appeared to back focused. I couldn't quite pinpoint what was going on for several days, but was considering sending the lens back. All of my issues were while trying to use the lens wide open or close to it. Long story short, I believe it had a lot more to do with my technique (or lack there of) when shooting wide open. The distances I was commonly at + using the method of focus and recompose seemed to make the focus point appear behind where is should have been. With such a thin DOF I believe I was moving the lens to much for this to work accurately. I have had much better luck shifting the focus point when using this lens wide open.
I'm sorry to center you out, but this is exactly what I alluded to earlier.
Here, we are trying to fine tune the AF system, but we are moving the camera between the time we focus and the time we take the test image.
This introduces a second variable, so now we don't know which variable to adjust to make the image better.
03-26-2012, 11:33 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
I'm sorry to center you out, but this is exactly what I alluded to earlier.
Here, we are trying to fine tune the AF system, but we are moving the camera between the time we focus and the time we take the test image.
This introduces a second variable, so now we don't know which variable to adjust to make the image better.
No need to be sorry. It didn't really occur to me until I started researching the issue and found that people using many brands and models (from Rebels to D700's) were discussing similar experiences. After that I started looking at factors other than hardware. Between reading a few articles regarding potential problems with focus and recompose and downloading a DOF calculator it became clear that I was probably causing more problems than I was solving. Of course there is always the possibility of a hardware issue, so YMMV, in my case I'm pretty sure I can chalk it up to user error.
04-03-2012, 06:31 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by panoguy Quote
Because lenses, like the sensor assembly in any DSLR, are handled by humans and get a lot more "handling" on their way to you. Each of your lenses were (partly) assembled by hand and calibrated to certain tolerances at the factory, then put in its box, which was squished into a bigger box, which was then dropped into a shipping container, which was pulled by a truck, then dropped onto a boat, then unloaded onto another truck, then unpacked onto a loading dock, then stuffed into a distributors truck, then placed onto a camera store back shelf, then finally got into your hands (unless you bought online!).

Even before all that, no two lenses (even the same brand and type, made by a single person, and shipped together) will be exactly the same when you get down to micrometer focus adjustment. They are consumer goods, and they are variable even under the best QC.

Don't fight it, just adjust.
Nice explanation, but you did not get the question.

Whatever you do to your lens, will not change the AF sensor to image plane calibration. The AF sensor will focus the lens based on phase shift meaning that it compensates automaticlly for all the problems you mention abnove. What can be adjusted is the offset between AF sensor and image plane. So again why do some lenses reveal different fine adjsutments. Is there a feedback between AF and lens that results in something like an offset, Does the size of the AF area change too much for a given lens...
All the causes mentioned above will only change what you read off the foucs ring - who cares?
04-03-2012, 06:37 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wheatfield Quote
I'm sorry to center you out, but this is exactly what I alluded to earlier.
Here, we are trying to fine tune the AF system, but we are moving the camera between the time we focus and the time we take the test image.
This introduces a second variable, so now we don't know which variable to adjust to make the image better.
If you want to fix a problem, you need to start somewhere. So use a tripod and an angled device for AF fine adjustment. It is fairly straight foward to identify larger offsets.

I agree that real world photography introduces more variables, but a split screen easily shows a slight focus problem and my K5 was so far off that the effect was apparent in the images.
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